20 Most Recent 1992 Honda Accord - Page 9 Questions & Answers

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Late firing or retardant ignition is the condition caused by incorrect ignition timing. Ignition timing is a setpoint established by the engineers as the optimum setting for ignition efficiency. This setting is a few degrees before TDC or top dead center. TDC is the point on 360 degree scale at 0 . This indicates the #1 cylinder has its piston travel at the top
Limit of the stroke. If your condition has firing occurring after the few degrees Before TDC then this can be called late firing. You have a timing issue.

It's not the filter. But replace it anyway. I would look more toward the ignition. Crank sensor, coils, and lose of power to them. Have the codes read.

yes it will be same as taking the diff out so you have to remove the axles.

Sounds like it may have gotten wet under the distributor cap or in the spark plug holes causing it to misfire.

Fuse burn up u might be able to replace but possly to late so the u might need a new fuse box theres two diffrent boxes the one you want is under the drivers side dash the should be a flip down door

for the brake lamp stays on.... try replace all the brake lightbulbs as maybe one of the bulbs is about to blow which resulted in higher resistance. for door ajar stays on.... check all doors, bonnet switch. either one of them is on close loop.

check fluid level and condition--may need pressure test done--torque converter may hav issues--car is over 20 and seals wear out along w other parts--go to a specialist like aamco-if need a rebuild consider a new jaspar trans-u git a 100 000 mi warranty!

just an idea it may be related to your throttle position sensor.

If nothing major like a head gasket,then you know the fans fail to stay on,so there you go Look at a schematic of the fan circuit & do some testing, to find out why You did not say if it is loosing coolant or water, if so, you could have a bigger issue Never use tap water,only distilled water from super market & 50/50 or 60/40 with the mix

Most likely you have a transmission problem. Have the code/s read. Could be a solenoid or a transmission rebuild.

it may b as little as a dirty trany filter

You can replace your cluster by calling a junk yard. They have many different clusters for the 1990-1991 Accord. The best way to do it is to go ahead and open up your dash enough to remove your old one. Leave it plugged in, and then when you get to the junk yard, take yours out, carry it in with you, so you can compare and contrast it to the ones they will have. You should get a perfect match. Does it have the NS logo on it? Nippon? Denso? Does it have ABS? Is it a manual or AT tranny, how many doors? EX< LX? All that matters. I have a ton of them here at Honda's Only Auto Dismantlers. I won't ship these, however, because of how many different variations there are on these. You could also get one on EBAY, but, as I mentioned, please take care to get exactly the same one. They run about 75 to 100 bucks used. Good Luck. Also, you could use the link below, and I HIGHLY recommend that you use DISTANCE as the criteria before you search with LOWER PRICE. You want to really get one in your hands and turn it over to make sure that it is a perfect match. EVEN count the pins in the plug if you can. Car Part com Used Auto Parts Market Hondas Only Auto Center Dismantlers Auto Sales

Clutch is slipping have to have it replaced

Relays rarely go bad. If you have on that gets really hot. It could be the relay or the wiring. And yes, main relays and even secondary relays can keep an engine from starting/running. First check which relay is getting hot. The swap it with another relay in the panel. If it still gets hot. you will have to start checking the wires to it. If the relay you swapped to other spot gets hot, replace the relay.

These transmissions are problematic. They have two electronic solenoid which go bad. Also the internal filters clog up and destroy the trans. You may need to first pull the pan and check for metal shavings in the pan bottom. If this is clean, then check the solenoids and replace. Final option obtain a used one from the Scrap yard. since the engine will run forever.

ck to see if you are getting fuel first , then spark , did you change the cap and rotor and ck the plugs , maybe a fuel pump ,will not know until you take a pressuer test on the fuel rail

Can you rev it up when its parked ? Have you checked base fuel pressure with a gauge ? Did you also replace the fuel filter ?

Yes, it is sealed, but that doesn't mean it is leaking, otherwise why do you need to 'service' it every year? Small amounts escape under normal operating conditions until one day it doesn't cool so well. That said, you need to know what you are doing when handling freon and have some competency with the procedures. This can be learned, and there are lots of places to get guages nowadays. But you MUST be up to the task and it is best to have someone walk you through the first time. And of course read up on it and your guage manuals before you even think about checking your pressures. Get a real manifold guage & learn how to use it, not just those little guages that come with a can.

NOW, a '92 model Honda probably uses R-12. In that case you must convert to R-134-a or another equivalent. At least this means you must change the seals, dryer, expansion valve, etc with specific types of parts for the refrigerant you convert it to. Before you do this, I'm sure someone will pull down your old R-12 into their recycler for free. R-12 is expensive and they are not making anymore, so don't let anyone charge you for giving them a rare commodity if you even have just a little bit left in the system. Get a conversion kit, change the fittings & the seals, dryer, etc, -check with your supplier- then have it professionally vacuumed & charged. You'll still save a bunch by doing what you can & have a pro recharge it

One last thing, if it turns out you have a leak there is a probe guage you can get at Harbor Freight tools to check for leaking halogenated gases- ie Freon. Regular price is 69.99 but you can usually get a coupon or other bonus to sweeten the deal. This tool is better than the other way, which you can't do if you have R-12- no leak finder refill charge with red dye is available. The other way for 134-a is a UV dye that is added, or to light it with a special torch, but that can expose you to killer phosgene gas used in chemical warfare during WWI. Some things are better left to those with the equipment & expertise.

If you have 134-a, then invest in the guages (provided you are up to the task) and top off with a can with the UV dye, that way when you really have a leak you can find it with the special glasses & UV light it comes with.

attach fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure during acceleration. fuel pressure should be the same as when vehicle is idling. if fuel pressure is good i would check ignition timing of your car. if timing is retarded it will affect acceleration and feel like its sluggish too.