Top 20 1993 Subaru Impreza - Page 6 Questions & Answers

being that old ,probably your blower motor went out,

yes could be one reason-loose belt at pump,air in lines ,pump going bad ,front steering parts/components bent,damaged,or broken are others but check and fill to proper level first than turn completely from one side to other side to clear any air in lines do a few times

You will be amazed at how easy the Subaru is. Bet you spend half as much time than you did on the GM. To change pads remove wheel, use 12mm wrench to undo the bottom bolt of caliper. Flip caliper upward after colapsing the caliper pads. If you need to change the Rotor also. There are 2 14mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket. Then the rotor slides right off. Good luck and have a great day.

Might be a traction control light, hard to tell with the provided information.

take it transmission place. it could be a sensor or it could be the bands in the tranny. take it to a transmission shop. because it will get worse and you dont want to get caught in winter.they have all the tools to check it. if it cost to much to fix just get another car instead.

you would need to remove the dash and replace the little cog that turns the dial with a new one, it would be missing some teeth and it will be worn, check ebay for new cog theyre pretty cheap and its an easy process to do.

YOU CANT USE A REGULAR FUEL LINE ON POWER STEERING AS A HIGH PRESSURE HOSE.BECAUSE POWER STEERING PRESSURE IS 1000 PSI.YOU HAVE TO BUY THE POWER STEERING HIGH PRESSURE HOSE IT HAS NUMBER OF PLIES MATERIAL WEAVES TO MAKE IT STRONG.IT WAS MADE FOR POWER STEERING HIGH PRESSURE.YOU DONT HAVE A BLOCKAGE .THE HIGH PRESSURE HOSE JUST WORE OUT.REPLACE IT .IT SHOULD FIX THE PROBLEM.

Professional way? Pilot Bearing Puller. Here is an example,

http://www.overstock.com/Auto-Parts/Pilot-Bearing-Puller/3499195/product.html?cid=123620&fp=F&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=11568310

Not relevant to your situation due to availability, or budget? Then it's time to use your ingenuity.

Non-professional ways:

1.Makeshift a slide hammer puller. A rod of metal with a hooked end, or similar. Attach a large pair of Vise Grips to the end of the rod, place the hooked end inside the inner bearing race. (The hole where the transmission input shaft goes)

Take a hammer and tap on the Vise Grips, so that the rod is pulling away from the bearing. (Towards the back of the vehicle)
Work on one side of the inner race, move over a little, and work on that spot. Keep moving around until you pull the bearing out.
Yes, very 'Shade Tree' but will work in a pinch. (Hard on Vise Grips though!)

2.Use a small flat cold chisel. Hit the inner race of the bearing, knocking it out. Remove the inner race, and all bearings. Take the chisel again, and carefully cut a groove along the outer race, staying Away from the crankshaft bore.

Once, the groove is all the way across the outer race of the bearing, and is deep enough, you can work the outer race out of the crankshaft bore.
If you scar the crankshaft bearing bore, file just the scar smooth, and follow up with Emery cloth.

AGAIN, the above No1, and No.2 examples are Non-professional, use at your own risk. I just thought I would post these methods, as not everyone has $26 to $35, for a tool you may use just one time.

Regards,
joecoolsvette

CHECK COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR AND RELAY, ALSO WHILE CHECKING FAN MOTOR MAKE SURE A/C IS OFF, FAN WILL RUN ALL THE TIME WITH A/C ON.

Your most likely responsible factor is that the 4wd is not working, or something that keeps it working needs to be serviced. The light is on because it is telling you that there is a DTC (data trouble code) stored in the memory bank of your car, and it stays on telling you to go to a dealership. You need to take your car in to a dealership to at least have them run they're scan tool, and tell you what the car is saying is wrong. You can decide what to do from there.

certainly chec gas flow and do tuneup--inspec trans for out of ajusment-seems like alot of miles on vehicle and gears may need inspection

most likely not a carb. It should be EFI or fuel injected.you can get any info out of a chilton manual from autozone for about 10.00 dollars

Youre problem could also be a clogged fuel filter. Either way youre best option is to take it to a local shop and get a free estimate.

Hi DO NOT BYPASS the tryrister switch!!!!!!!!!.

You can safely add R12 (freon) from a can with the system not running ,when you have enough gas and oil mix added to the system the compressor will stsart automatically the problem you have is not knowing if there is a leak in the system,as you need to check this as venting R12 to the atmosphere can land you in prison if caught !!!!,.The best advice I can give you is take the car to an Air-con specialist and he will carry out all the checks on the system for you and re-gas the system properly.

befor purchase check the availability and cost of parts not only for this repair but other items such as t.belt, gasket kits, filters,etc not to scear you but if you insist would of been nice to get one that was running but why pass up a good deal

under intake,install in coolant crossover pipe,remove air intake chamber,pcv hose and connection to block its an orange connector 2pin remove it with deep 19mm socket 3/8 drive

If you don't hear a buzzing sound coming from the gas tank when you turn on the ignition, the pump is shot even tho there is voltage going to it.

It is in tank. Take out back seat squabs and rear luggage carpet. There should be a removeable panel usually black on the floor. the pump and sender are under this. Change pump for a Walbro 255 LpH but leave the original filter sock. It is better than the Walbro one.

Replace it. As old as yours is, if it is leaking you need a new one.

You have OBD2 technology, to clear the stored codes you need a scan-tool. the cheapest one out there is the actron mini. All it does is read codes, give you the code number, give you the readiness status, and allows you to clear stored codes. It goes for $80. and most part stores carry it.