Not sure about the advice above...If your experiencing a rear wheel locking up, I've seen where the emergency brake cable is not releasing and is stuck. Best bet is to have someone operate the E-brake while you watch the cable underneath the car on the right side. If you don't see the cable retracting, clamp a pair of vice grips tightly onto the cable (away from where it could retract into the sheath) and tap the vice grips "away" from the wheel. This will "persuade" the cable to retract, therefore releasing the emergency brake. If that's it, don't use the emergency brake until you either lube it real well or replace it. Good luck!
I too, need a vacuum hose diagram but for a 86 Honda Civic 1.5 (carb). I need to overhaul the carb and also want to see if I can eliminate some of the many vacuum hoses on this thing. They can't all be necessary to make this thing run?????......
CHECK YOUR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS TO THE DISTRIBUTOR , COIL ,A CRACKED DISTRIBUTOR CAP OR ROTOR IN YOUR DISTRIBUTOR CAN ALSO CAUSE THIS . JUST BE SYSTEMATIC IN DOING YOUR CHECKS . CHECK THE IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE TO DETERMIN THE INTEGRITY OF THE COIL
SOUNDS LIKE IT MIGHT BE STARVING OF FUEL . FUEL PRESSURE MIGHT BE GOOD , THE VOLUME FROM THE PUMP AT IDLE MIGHT BE GOOD , BUT IF THS FLOAT IN THE CARBURETTOR IS CLOSING OF THE CHECK VALVE TO EARLY . THE ENGINE WILL NOT SUSTAIN HIGH SPEED OR HIGHER ENGINE RPM .
FROM THE INFORMATION PROVIDED , IT APPEARS TO BE A FUEL SYSTEM PROBLEM . MY REASON FOR SAYING SO IS , WHEN THA ACCELERATOR PEDAL IS DEPRESSED , THE FUEL SYSTEM HAS COMPONENTS TO ENRICHEN THE AIR FUEL MIXTURE TO COMPENSATE FOR THE ADDITIONAL AIR THAT WOULD BE COMING IN AND CAUSING THE MIXTURE TO BECOME LEAN . IF YOUR CAR HAS A CARBURETTOR CHECK THE ACCELERATOR PLUNGER OR THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, MAP SENSOR IF FUEL INJECTED .
if you are changing the transmission fluid to new fluid just go to this link web site they will show you how: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tj5xTXRK9OIusually when you get out most of the tramsmission fluid that if you have the container just pour it into oil quarts containers and you will get the results you are looking for as long on the stick of the tramsmission it shows max when you have the car running for a couple of minutes to make sure that the tramsmission fluid is at its max level.
It cranks really good sputters a little and makes some loud pops but it will not turn over? FYI:Cranking and turning over are the same thing. When was the last time it ran. The gas could be bad. Did you get new plug wires as well. Try testing the distributor, remove a spark plug, plug it back into the wire, and touch the threads to ground and crank the engine. It should spark. Keep your fingers away, that's high voltage. Remove all spark plugs, spray some starting fluid in each cylinder, then crank the engine with the plugs out. This will clean any debris from the cylinders. Engines need backpressure to run properly, a major exhaust leak hence the popping, could cause it to not run. If you can get it started try to keep it going, full throttle, keep in the starting fluid, it could just need to get warm. I used to have one of them and they don't like it when they're cold.
Make sure you have the right mix of water and coolant. IT should be 50/50,check the radiator for mineral build up.Change the radiator cap.Change the thermostat.Check the water pump fins for excess wear
Ignition coil or Igniter (ignition module), likely one is failed. First check for battery voltage on the B+ primary wire on the coil. If voltage there, may be the coil (also check distrib. cap and rotor for wear or cracks). If no voltage to the coil, might be the igniter.
If the engine is original, it could be from old age. The camshaft could have been cracked for many months before finally breaking. One of the cam bearings may have seized up from lack of oil.One of the valves may have stuck or broke and jammed the cam lobe.
