20 Most Recent 1998 Mercury Villager - Page 7 Questions & Answers

TRY TO TAP THE STARTER CASEING TO GET IT UNBOUND. AT ANY REATE THE STARTER NEEDS REPLACED. ANY QUESTIONS MY E-MAIL ADDRESS IS [email protected] IF YOU WANT TO TALK ON PHONE SEND ME YOUR NUMBER AND I WILL CALL YOU

try checking the cover on the brake fluid resivoir, the recommended type of fluid should be stamped on the cover.

then the next step is to replace the brake light switch, about every FMC vehicle made for 60 years has the same one in it, so a parts store will have it on the shelf. it is mounted on the brake pedal arm just high enough that a shoe will not touch it. should be easy swap on a van. if you car has cruise, let the parts store guy know.

Why would you change a perfectly good fuse or bulbs &
then expect something good to happen ?

You have to learn how to test all things in life

Have you moved on to the brake light switch by the
brake pedal arm?

yahoo group for villager quest owners can help

Normally the engine has to idle faster because of the extra load of the brake lights when you press on the brakes.. Sounds like your idle speed is a little high. Have someone set your idle speed properly.

Hope this helps you


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fault in the column switch i would imagine try checking the wires to this switch with a automotive meter

This is most likely smoke if you or someone else that drives it is a smoker. There is a small chance that the plastic dash is outgassing and causing this.. The dealer has something you can put on the dash to help slow that down.

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go to our site for help.

your owner manual has fuse diagrams.

the qtr windows go through the power window relay. If other windows work, not likely the relay or timer module.

you need 12 volts at this wire on the overhead console switches.

Measure the voltage between the power rear quarter glass window regulator control switch C903 , "O/BK" and ground.

If no 12 v, SERVICE the "O/BK" wire between the power window relay and the power rear quarter glass window regulator control switch.
The ower window relay is above and behind the fuse panel on the dash. 2 relays and turn signal flasher in same area. Turn signal light on to locate flasher. 2 bolts hold bracket with relays & flasher.

gerry

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It may be the ECM if so you wont be getting fuel either turn the switch on and see if you can hear the fuelpump running.

$1000 plus the costs to do head gaskets, bearings (remember, antifreeze in the lubrication system means cam and crank bearings), you are talking about a rebuild, since it's out and apart you may as well do the rings too (150,000)...align boring, deck the block, heads...with the misc. items you will end up doing, you might be better off looking for a low mileage junkyard engine instead of going through that one.

replace the ignition module to fix your problem

More likely its the alternator. Not putting out enough or the regulator inside it. Just possible its the battery. The main starter relay is the cylinder attached to the starter. When you changed the starter you got a new relay. Take the car to a Auto Zone auto parts store or similar, and ask them to check the alternator out put. They may have you remove to bench test it, but with luck will put a meter on while running. `They can also test the battery to see if that is the fault.
Good luck.

do not change the knock sensor, save $600

VSS is on top rear of trans

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Hello, It can be the blower motor itself, which you can test by unplugging a connector on it and use a pair of wires the same diameter as those on the connector. Then run the ends of the test wires to the battery and carefully touch the opposite ends to the motor terminals while not allowing the wires to touch each other. If the motor spins then your problem is likely the blower motor resistor.

If the motor does not spin; remove it and go to an autoparts store like Autozone, Oreillys, or Advance and have it tested again before purchasing a different part.

The counter person at the autoparts can look up your blower motor resistor if the blower is good. They have diagrams for the location of this part. Some parts require removal of underdash ductwork and others can be accessed from the engine compartment. If this part is buried in the dash, some people go to a Salvage yard to retrieve the part. Working on a wreck will allow you to learn what to do and not tear up your own vehicle doing it.

I would check the clamp to that hose and if tight go into a parts store and get new radiator hoses and I usually like to do a coolant flush when doing the hoses

It depends on which cylinder it's on. You can access the front three (2, 4, 6; I think but check your user manual) fairly easily. It's the back cylinders that are going to get you into the time and cost of labor. If it's on a front cylinder, I suggest viewing a DYI on YouTube to determine if you have the skill level and tools.