20 Most Recent 1997 Mercury Mystique - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hello and welcome to FixYa!

If you have overheating problem, it can lead to multiple issues. You may be running on low coolant that's why the vehicle overheats. If that's the case, please add coolant and make sure that it sits on the right level, too much coolant can cause overheating too for coolant will overflow.

The vehicle may have a faulty or worn out radiator blower motor that's why it overheats. If that's the case then you will need a blower motor replacement to resolve the issue.

If the radiator is clogged with dirt and rusts this issue occurs too. The coolant doesn't flow normally on the cooling system if it's clogged. If that's the case, I strongly suggest that you have the radiator flushed to drain out dirt and rusts. If you think that the radiator served you enough then it's better to have it replaced.

Please do check the radiator hoses, If you have worn out hoses it can cause coolant leakage which can result to overheating. A tiny hole is good enough for the vehicle to overheat.

A faulty thermostat sensor can cause the issue too. If you have worn out thermostat, the fan may not trigger that's why the fan won't work when under stressed conditions. A blown radiator blower fuse can cause this issue too so I suggest that you check the radiator blower fuse and replace it when necessary. What causes the radiator blower fan fuse to blow? It's because of a failing radiator blower motor, If that's the case have the radiator blower fan motor replaced.

If the fluid in radiator doesn't circulate then it means that you have a blown head gasket or a faulty water pump. I suggest that you go for the water pump replacement first specially if you think that it's near the end of it's service life. Usually, water pops out the radiator when engine is reved (a sign of faulty water pump and possible blown head gasket).

Hope you find this information helpful enough and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

All TPS Sensors are on the throttle body , as
the name applies

Wow you change everything, TPS was right thing to do and so is the Idle air control,and MAF and EGR, fuel pressure, So it idles high then some one tried to defeat the stall in gear? Even if there is a vacuum leak creating high idle it shouldnt stall in gear, , What color is the transmission fluid? when in gear in drive step on the acelerator pedal to maintain idle to prevent car from stalling. Just enough to maintain let say 1100RPM. Is there a vibration? I mean a torque convertor vibration. Torque convertor stall are common an GM and Nissan,very rare do I ever see it on Ford. I really belive the IAC is not getting power and is just been adjusted manually, cause I know its not the transmission, At idle in gear pull the plug on the idle Air control does it change in idle setting? If it doesnt change in Idle setting the adjustment that was use to control the setting lower the idle to its normal setting. Plug the idle air control in then.The idle air should change the setting. If it doesnt its not getting the signal it should.

Which sensor are you wanting to replace?There are at least 12 sensors that input into the transmission computer and there are 5 solenoids that control the transmission.If you can give a diagnostic code or at least a symptom I may can lead you in the right direction.

chec fluid level or hav a filter/oilchange in the tranny--also ajust tv cable plus bands etc--get vehicle scanned--mite wnat to do a pressure chec at the gears--cud be a # of things autotrans r really complex

No, Ford didn't do that with OBD2 cars. You'll have to use an OBD2 scanner. If you don't live in CA, you can get the codes pulled for free at Auto Zone. Be sure to have them print the codes or write them down so you can post the codes here for more help.

I can't answer that question for you without seeing the vehicle, but I can give you another possible cause. It could be that the radiator is plugged.
The thermostat is easy to replace and if you haven't changed it before, it would be a good place to start. If that doesn't solve the problem, have a qualified radiator shop test the radiator for you.
If it doesn't overheat when idling, it's probably not related to the radiator cooling fan, but it's possible.

I have a 97 too, got it used and have had it for 6 years. Mine has over 120,000 miles on it. transmission has been replaced, now the alternator just went out. My car did this "cugging" and trying to stall for the longest time before the alternator went.
You should check all the hoses for sludge build up (especially if you let the gas get below 1/4 tank), then check the battery and altanator. These seemed to be the major problem with the car. Although now the electrical system in the car is going.
To make alternator repairs at a shop is just under $400.00 or you can do it yourself for parts and about 30mins of work for $170.00.
You can have the battery and alternator checked at Advanced auto parts or Discount auto parts for free.

Hope this helps! Other than that save your money and get out of that car!

you dont you wash it out with some petrol thats all and then give it a blow with a air line

any auto parts dealer will have the insulation for wiring harness doesnt matter where ya go just make sure you do get heat resistant and that should help you out

Remove the return hose from the cooler at
the resevoir,remove injector fuse and crank over engine,
collect oil in bottle

after the catalytic converter on the exhaust pipe.

start at checking all fuses possible one is burnt as well the fuses at the battery sometimes a main fuse goes

Hi Bro !
It should be on the blower motor on the passenger side behind the trim panel.

I just checked my Haynes Manual and it says:
1. Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal
2. Disable the air bag system
3. Release the four clips by pulling them out, securing the passenger side foot well upper trim panel, then withdraw the panel.
4. Disconnect the motor's electrical connector
5. Lift the motor's retaining lug slightly, twist the motor counter-clockwise through approx. 30 degrees then withdraw the assembly.

Hope this helps you.

Put an Ignition module on it and have a great day

You will need to replace your speed sensor switch located beside blower motor 2inch by 1inch single plug if you had a replacement in hand you could better identify it.

It sounds like a sensor issue you need to get the code read first. Take it to the auto parts store most of them will do this at no charge. You need to find out what the code says the repair or replacement of the sensor likely won't but that hard or expensive but you need to know where to start good luck with it

If you don't want to go to the bother of changing the fuse box then you can run a power wire direct from the battery to a switch inside the car and hook the blower motor to the other side. It will always be live so you will have to remember to turn it off when you turn the car off. Also make sure you put an in-line fuse between the switch and the blower motor. Make sure that when you feed the wire through the firewall that it can't connect with metal or it will short out. Put the wire through one of the rubber plugs that are already there. Hope this helps.

Look in your owners manual or even in your engine compartment on the oil cap or on the engine spec sticker. If you're asking Motor Oil vs. Synthetic...it's up to you.