20 Most Recent 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis Questions & Answers

Anti slosh module? I've never heard of that. If there is such a thing, it must be on the fuel level sending unit in the tank. It is usually the sending unit at fault when the gas gauge stops working. Here's how to check if the problem is the sending unit or the gauge in the cluster: you will need a helper to watch the gas gauge needle. Pull the electrical connector apart at the tank, find the gas gauge wire. The power wire for the fuel pump is pink and black, and the ground for it is a black wire, so the fuel sender wire should be a different color. When you figure out which wire is for the gas gauge, turn the key to on, and take a jumper wire and ground the gas gauge wire to the frame. Have a helper watch the gas gauge needle when you ground the wire: the needle should move perceptibly. If it does, the gauge in the cluster is good, and the problem is with the sending unit in the tank. If grounding the wire does not make the needle jump, the problem may be the gauge in the cluster. Be sure that you have made a good contact with ground with the jumper wire. There is a small match box size voltage regulator on the back of the cluster. This sends low voltage (about 5 volts) through the gas gauge and on to the wire going to the tank. When you ground this wire, it should cause the gauge needle to go either to full or to empty, but you should see the needle move. Remember, key on, then ground the wire. Any movement of the needle means the gas gauge is probably good, and the problem is the sending unit in the tank.

open the gas tank cover an try again.

one would suggest blown head gasket check for coolant in radiator or coolant in engine oil causes old hoses stuck thermostat cooling fans not coming on or old and slow spinning faulty thermostatic switch for fans to start corroded or leaking water pump

W a wire. Make sure its opening. Carbon acummulates

Defective blend door is likely.

Hi, The link below is a youtube video showing a possible solution to your problem, Also... Down the right side of the link are more video solutions.....CHEERS.. Is Your Car Hesitating It May Need New Throttle Position Sensor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION Fuel injection systems remain under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.

1. If equipped with air suspension, the air suspension switch, located on the right-hand side of the luggage compartment, must be turned to the OFF position before raising the vehicle.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Relieve fuel system pressure using the recommended procedure.
4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
5. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle and place on a suitable work bench.
6. Remove any dirt that has accumulated around the fuel pump retaining flange so it will not enter the tank during pump removal and installation.
7. On 1989-94 models, turn the fuel pump locking ring counterclockwise and remove the locking ring.
8. On 1995-98 models, remove 6 retaining bolts around the perimeter of the fuel pump module.
9. Remove the fuel pump/sending unit assembly. Remove and discard the seal ring.

To install:

1. Clean the fuel pump mounting flange, fuel tank mounting surface and seal ring groove.
2. Apply a light coating of grease on a new seal ring to hold it in place during assembly and install in the seal ring groove.
3. Install the fuel pump/sending unit assembly carefully to ensure the filter is not damaged. Make sure the locating keys are in the keyways and the seal ring remains in the groove.
4. Hold the pump assembly in place and install the locking ring finger-tight. Make sure all the locking tabs are under the tank lock ring tabs.
5. Rotate the locking ring clockwise until the ring is against the stops.
6. Install the fuel tank into the vehicle.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. If equipped with air suspension, turn the air suspension switch to the ON position.
9. Add a minimum of 10 gallons of fuel to the tank and check for leaks.
10. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
11. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position several times to pressurize the fuel system. Check for fuel leaks and correct as necessary.
12. Start the engine and check for leaks.
13. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

This is normal.

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I am thinking that the idle rpms are too low and the tune up is not good enough to compensate for the drop in rpms when the transmission is engaged normal idle rpms on an automatic should be around 850rpms as they will drop 250rpms on gear selsction any idle speed around 500 rpms will die when fear is engaged

Hi We'll need to know what the problem you're having is before we can help you. In the meantime, have your blinker fluid checked. -Steve

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment. If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money. Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for. These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause. 1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on. 2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on. 3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off. 4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test. Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out, you will know which system is having the problem.

Under coil pack If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/richard_b59056c0c62ecb00

Yes, each window has its own motor. If you can hear a motor run when you try to run the window up/ down but it does not move, it might be the window gear. Ford used what is called a tri-ball to connect the window motor to the window regulator. These are notorious for going out and are not too hard to change, you will just need to drill out the rivets that hold the regulator to the door frame and the large rivets and rivet gun to re-attach everything when done. If it is not something you want to tackle yourself your local body shop should be able to fix you up, they usually have the large rivet gun for re-attaching outer door handles which most mechanical repair shops don't have.

Starter issue? Try rapping the starter a few times with a hammer.

Lets start at the beginning.Did anybody check to see if the timing chain was really in need of replacing ?Did you replace the starter and solenoid because it would not crank ?Is it now getting spark to the plugs, and fuel to the injectors ?Are the injectors getting voltage and a ground signal from the computer ?Do the cylinders have proper compression ?Is the rotor in the distributor turning when you crank the engine ?

Click here Connie.

vacuum leak. mine was under the plenum. there are two major vac. hoses under it.

cylenoid on fender under the hood it has 3 wires going to it also look to see if there is a fuse off the battery cable.

just because the pump comes on doesn't mean that it is working you can go to advanced auto or some other place and rent a fuel line presure tester there will be a check valve under the hood in the fuel lineand there is also a filter at the end of the pump in the tank