20 Most Recent 1991 Honda Accord Questions & Answers

Under the passenger foot well, there is a "mother board". Replace it! You can find it on ebay for about $45. 2 simple plugs, to unplug and plug back in. It seems to be a fault with the Honda, everyone seems to replaceit. Google 91 honda s-mode light on!

• Here is the diagram you requested. Cylinder 1 is on the right side.

Hope this helps.

You must drop the pan that is under the transmission to drain the fluid, don't forget to replace the fluid filter.

Hi. Have you change the fuel pump relay?
If not change the relay, The original number is, RZ0088.
In the fuse box below the steering column. Is there a fuse for fuel pump.
The relay is a common problem for this cars.

Its called a Main Fuel Pump Relay.. It controls Fuel Pump, Starter, Ignition.. and Like 12 things.. Get one And I guarantee that'll fix it.. It looks like a cell phone on the upper inside of the dash.. about 52 Bucks from the dealer.. Try it

I have the same problem with mine. The antenna should go down when you turn the key to the off position. When it stays up or only goes down a little, you can actually push it down with your hand. It will not hurt it. Just make sure you push it straight down as not to bend or fold it over. It is just wearing out and needs to be replaced.

The only plug that I am aware of is at the bottom of your rad.

check and examine the wheel bearings / hub -c/v axle and or for debris

Thanks a bunch for sharing this with all folks you sincerely understand what you're talking about. that is for all and sundry, I made this torque spec thread when you consider that I and lots of others here always ask approximately torque specs. discover myself searching trough all my Haynes and Chilton books for torque specs even as I understand i will make a list like this one to make it less complicated. Expert Custom Essay Services

I show immobilizers where only started in the 1998 accords, if you have a remote starter and they used a key in the box bypass all you need to do is find the box under the dash open it up and use the key

(+)blu/yel and (-) gry/wht to LR
(+)red/yel and (-) brn/wht to RR
(+)blu/grn and (-) gry/blk to LF
(+)red/grn and (-) brn/blk to RF
if u want a pic let me know your email and i send it to you.

Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop.

Hi Kristi You need a mechanic to look at this for you. What you are describing is a possible Head gasket fault, if the engine is running erratic and now will not start the spark plugs could be wet. If this is the case if you try to start it or run the engine it could cause a lot more damage. Signs for head gasket :- rapid engine temperature rise, boiling of coolant, erratic idle to the point of no start, coolant loss excess water from exhaust probable white smoke from exhaust when engine is running. Water leaking either external to head gasket, water leaking internal of engine i.e. into bores. Water leaking into engine oil. This can be seen via dipstick will show raised oil level and possibly a creamy texture. can be confirmed by excessive creamy substance in oil filler cap and rocker cover. Now on saying this it could be something more simple like an under active cooling fan. This is why I advise someone to look at it before you start spending money on things it might not be. Good luck

For dashboard mount:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Carefully pull the clock bezel from the dash.
Remove the screws securing the clock to the dash.
Pull the clock out slightly and unplug the electrical connector.
Installation is reverse of removal.

For console mount:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the rear console.
Remove the screws securing the front console cover and pull the assembly out slightly.
Unplug the electrical connectors on the back of the panel.
Remove the screws securing the clock (they come in from the back of the panel), then remove it from the panel.
Installation is reverse of removal.

Hope this helps you.

Perhaps try a fuel pressure tester to see if it's holding steady pressure when this occurs. This sounds like the symptoms of a failing pump however, don't just change the pump. Confirm it by monitoring the pressure. I've seen some guys tape the pressure gauge to the windshield so they can see it.

I'm voting for blown head gasket. An auto shop (maybe a parts store?) has a test strip that will show up combustion gases in the radiator. You might be able to do a sniff test and detect an exhaust gas smell.

If you have already checked fuses and bulbs, you can do the following: If you have a multimeter, set it to DC voltage 20 and remove the light bulb. Have someone else press the brake pedal and touch your leads from the multimeter to the contacts (one lead on one, the other on the opposite terminal) and see if you're getting 12-14 volts DC. If you are getting the proper voltage, then the bulb should be replaced with a known working bulb. If you are getting no power when the brake pedal is depressed, you have a break in the wire somewhere and will need to track it down. Sometimes, there is a separate fuse for the 3rd brake light - have you checked for that fuse? It's possible the wire leading to the 3rd brake light has been cut or otherwise damaged - possibly from overloading the trunk and items physically damaging the wire. Another possibility is a faulty ground for that light assembly. Try to locate a service manual for the car and track down where the ground wire should be and make sure you have a solid connection. If all else fails, take your car to a qualified technician for a closer look.

Check fuel pump fuse and all other fuses, check brake switch, Also, a worn ignition switch will cause the car to start sometimes but not always. Try turning the switch to on position, then jiggle the key around in the switch while pushing in a bit...now start the car...did it start? If yes, replace switch and/or key cylinder....