20 Most Recent 1995 Volvo 850 Questions & Answers

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6941 I found this one when working on mine. I hope it helps you.

Have you diagnosed the problem to be the head gasket, or are you guessing.

What are the symptoms.

I would be carrying out a compression check, and cylinder leakage test on all cylinders.

If it is a blown head gasket, it will need replacement, don't bother with any dodgy chemical sealer, it will not work.

Could be rear brake locking up,cars arent used to going backwards or hand brake sticking on . Would look there first.

These have a PCV oil trap, not a valve. It is located under the intake manifold. The hoses run from under the spark plug wire cover all the way down to the oil trap and over to the throttle body. Over time the PCV oil trap becomes brittle and clogged. You will need to buy a new PCV kit for around $150 and replace it. Before you do, you must clean out the engine block where it attaches at its lowest point on the engine. I used sea foam, compressed air, and a coat hanger. I did an oil change at the same time so I could drain the sea foam out of the oil pan. Make sure you clean it out good because it will spray oil out of the dipstick and oil filler cap even after replacing the PCV components.

Clogged oil trap (PCV system, positive crank case ventilation). The hoses and oil trap need to be replaced (due to become brittle, dry rotted, and clogged) as well as cleaning out the sludge in the bottom of the engine block. The parts cost about $150 last I checked, and you will need to remove the intake manifold and spark plug wire cover to access the hoses and oil trap. On the bottom of the trap it connects to the engine block where you have to clean out the oil sludge. If you do not clean out the oil sludge it will still create back pressure through the oil cap and dip stick. I actually did an oil change at the same time, and drained the oil first and left the drain plug out while. I sprayed Sea Foam and compressed air down there to get the sludge out. I also used a coat hanger and brush to scrape/scrub it out. Worked good.

Check the wires that go to the fuel pump, one is pink the other black, when the key goes to position II you should have 12 volts for about 2 seconds, if you are getting that voltage to run/prime the pump then you have a bad pump. If the car hasn't been rolled, that switch prob. isn't your problem. The sensor is located attached to the body shell, under the center console between seats I think on a 95 ....

Try this: pull off the battery cable and let the charge drain for 30 min or so. Unlock your doors with the key, then reconnect the cable and let everything reset.You could also pull relay #14 (see photo) which is for the anti theft system. Or the fuse.

Hello Jack Smith '95 was right about when the obd (on board diagnostic) ports were being "STANDARDIZED"... If you check on Amazon (I will put opportunity URLs at the bottom for you... You will find a large selection of devices available... Also from auto-parts stores, eBay... (etc.). Even Harborfreight.com has them (quite cheap)... but the key is the code books... These are available by car model & make. Interesting... You can get a wealth of information (with some MIS- information)... merely by doing code searches on the internet. Code readers are quickly getting better and THE BLUETOOTH versions seem to be getting more attention lately... I waiting for a decent I-phone app to work with it. As for myself... I have the basic autel version from AMAZON... simply because of AMAZON'S amazing return policy. Hope this helps!

Does the car turn over? If it doesn't it could be an immobiliser issue if you have a fully charged battery.
Is the battery the correct type, amps and cranking amps?
Check all wiring connections you you removed to carry out the work.
It could be the wire on the starter motor soliniod came off. It does happen. The same goes for a bad battery terminal connections, a seized starter or a siezed power steering pump pully bearing. Did you rotate the pump pully before fitting?

Hope this helps you.
Gary

check fuses, spray carb cleaner in air cleaner/ throttle body, if starts....fuel pump bad

You need more oil. Add until it says it is full or in the full range. Also make sure you oil plug is tight on the oil pan.

I read you other post. A motor or transmission mount may cause vibration throughthe whole car. However, it will not cause the delay you described in going into reverse. If you want to know if you have a bad motor mount all you have to do is get someone to help you and watch the motor mounts when you put the thing in gear (both forward and reverse) and brake-torque the engine a little. If the mount is broken, you will see the break when it comes up under load.Otherwise, it sounds to me that you are describing an internal transmission problem.

Get a scanner from IPD for $80 and it will tell you what you need to do.

Very common for the thermostat to not allow the engine to get to the required temp and it will set the code. Replace the t/stat with an OEM thermostat

You do not over ride codes. You need to correct the fault or the code will continue to reappear.

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EGR malfunction. Check the vacuum hose to the EGR valve first.

Under the dash on the passenger side of the car.