20 Most Recent 1993 Volvo 850 Questions & Answers

Having a failure while driving past the same spot leads me to believe your experiencing electromagnetic interference (EMI) also called radio-frequency interference (RFI) when in the radio frequency spectrum. Find more info here: Electromagnetic interference EMI or RFI interference typically emanates from intended transmissions, such as radio and TV stations or mobile phones. Automobile ignition systems also generate changing electrical currents and voltages that can cause EMI.. Broadband EMI or RFI interference is unintentional radiation from sources such as electrical power transmission lines. With that said, your ignition module may be adversely affected by an outside source. Ask you mechanic if he can shield your module to see if that solves your problem. The ignition module is located in the front seating area, passenger side, under dash, mounted above kick panel.PS: What happens if you drive in a different direction for 10 minutes...does the failure still happen?

Hi, chk ur rear transmission mount.

check the battery voltage with a digital meter, clean the cables and terminals replace any loose ones. check grounds car off should be minimum or 12.5 anything less its probably a bad or low charged battery, with the car running with ac on and lights on high beams should be 13.5-15v anything less the alternator should be checked and or replaced. 13.5 is on the low side of the scale keep that in mind. as far as the accessories acting up, a low battery or bad alternator will cause all sorts of things to flicker and act up so start with the above first and good luck if after all thats completed and your still over time having a dead battery you have a parasitic drain, every car has a small one normally but a big one can be big trouble, disconnect the battery get yourself a test light. clamp one end of the test light to the positve cable (unhooked from battery) and touch the end of the test light to the + on the battery. if it lights up bright you have a parasitic drain. (something staying on,) unplug fueses until the light turns off and that fuse that was pulled right before the light went off is the circuit that's bad and needs to be checked. could be as simple as a light staying on or a aftermarket radio, but it can get as indepth as full electrical diagnostics

It is in the dash board behind the glove compartment and inside the ventilation duct. It is held in by one screw and has a flat plug going into it. To access it, removed the glove compartment housing and the panel beneath the glove box. Then remove the SRS air back plate which has 3 nuts holding it on. The you will be able to see the blower motor and resistor. The dash board comes apart with a torx bit, I forget the size.

Thermostatic Air hose attaches to a tube welded on the plate at the top of the exhaust manifold. It runs across the rear of the engine and attaches to the plastic tube sticking out from the air filter housing

Left hand front wheel speed sensor fault.

Have a transmission shop check it. Sounds like a bad transmission

Most auto stereo shops have the adapters. You should also be able to find them online. They adapt the existing wiring plug in the vehicle to the stereo without cutting anything.

Change your Fuel Filter, Have your Fuel pressure Checked. Your pump may be getting weak and it is easy to replace. There is an access hatch under the carpet over the fuel tank. Remove the hatch disconnect the wires and hoses, unscrew the locking ring and pull the pump and sending unit out as one piece. Replace the Pump in the housing and replace in reverse order.

Clean the Battery Terminals.

Remove the Upper Engine Torque Bushings and assembly, including the Aluminum Mount that bolts to the driver side end of the Engine. Then pull the cover off the same end of the exhaust cam. The sensor will be screwed into the cover but you want to clean the inside as well before installing the new one. You may want to replace the Cam Seal as well if it is leaking.

There is a hatch over the Fuel Tank under the carpet. Pull the hatch off, disconnect the wires and hoses and unscrew the locking ring. pull the fuel pump and sending unit out as one piece. Replace the Fuel Pump and replace in reverse order.

The cable that runs the seat back has twisted so many times it has disengaged itself from the seat back transmission. Pull the upper upholstery up and remove the cable housing from the transmission. Remove the metal end by trimming it off . Remove the piece of housing from inside the end reinstall the end, crimp it just a little and put it back in the transmission use the button and return the seat to the upright position and use the memory buttons to keep it positioned there.

No, but you can get replacement gears for the odometer

I had a same thing with my volvo it was the fuelpump

call the dealer

look man a mechanic is a guy who can change parts on ur car till it fixes it u need sumone to trouble shoot y did u change timing belt did it skip teeth good one day next start wont sounds more electrical or ignition do u have alarm system

Specifications per VADIS 1993 Volvo 850 2.4 Non Turbo: Ignition Coil, power stage: Resistance between terminals 1 and 15 (primary winding):0.5-1.5 Ohm Resistance between terminals15 and HT terminal (secondary winding): 8-9 kOhm

Well,That\'s the rub with the B5254 engine. It\'s possible that cam timing is retarded resulting in not enough TDC overlap - IOW - it can\'t breathe right and at the right times. Also, did the mechanic burp the head off and before that, drain the coolant from the block? Further, did you get a compression test after the rebuild?