20 Most Recent
1989 Volvo 240 Questions & Answers
Volvo 240 radiator leak
Epoxy or other types of "quick fixes" will not work, or if they do won't fix the problem correctly. Even stop leak just plugs the hole from the inside, and plugs up the system. Best bet is to try and find the problem, which is usually a leaking hose, water pump, or radiator. Once you find where the leak is coming from I can advise better on the best solution. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at
https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_f0c65cd1b4d4ec9c
Changing transmission fluid volvo 240dl
get a clear tube (about 5 feet long and wide enough to fit over the transline). Unscrew the transline from the radiator and place the the tube over it...place the other end of the tube into a bucket. Start the car, and give it a min before you start seeing the bubbles from the end of the old fluid...start pouring the new fluid in. when you fill her up, your done. don't over fill it.
Coolant leak under starter
If the water pump is near the starter it is in the
wrong place,it should be on front of engine.(sorry)
You could be loosing water from a pipe above the starter
one which goes to the heater.Although minor,it is leaking
onto starter and you do not want that.You must cover or
put something over starter to stop it getting wet,and this
is URGENT like yesterday. You will short the whole car
if not.
LUCK
Syd
My 1989 Volvo 240 gl hood won't open cable doesn't pop hood, what can i do to open it
You have 2 choices. You can try to grab the cable through the grill, cut it then see if the wire can then be pulled to release the hood.
Another option is to go from underneath with big screwdriver to move the latch thus releasing the hood latch. Not sure if you can get access to it on this vehicle easily. try a flashlight and from under the car reach way up into the latch area.
Volvo wiring
you are going to need a wiring diagram specific to your year model
Need to replace the computer
Being a Volvo it's not going to be easy or cheap.
The belt is about 30 bucks but one needs a torch generally and a special socket to get the crankshaft bolt out for the harmonic balancer. The Radiator and everything directly in the way has to be removed so it's a fair sized job and very difficult to find the right socket for the harmonic balancer bolt.
It's recommended to change the timing belt guides and tensioners on most vehicles and there should be a kit available.
Some vehicles must change the oil pump (or at least inspect and guage it to see if it's within specs for proper oil pressure.)
Some vehicles like the Intrepid have their waterpump in this location and this must be changed too.
Some vehicles have a reverse thread on the front pulley bolt so keep in mind to check this so you don't break it off and have to replace the crank or drill it out lol.,
These are not specific answers but perhaps a general guide to direct you. Z
I would suggest looking on
www.kijiji.com for a local mechanic that can save you a few dollars with experience, the right tools and better prices than a shop or dealer perhaps.
Hope this helps a bit on your task.
1993 Volvo Torslanda manual gear box problem
This is just a general answer but there could be several possibilities that come to mind, firstly the clutch could be worn and near the end of it's life or it could be an adjustment issue. If it's a hydraulic operated clutch which involves a Master and Slave cylinder this can be bled to get the air out of it, typically there would be a bleeder screw where the Slave attaches to the transmission. Could be a bent fork (this operates the throw-out bearing) which releases the clutch disk pressure and allows the clutch to spin with no friction.
Check your brake fluid level as this is usually the same hydraulic reservoir for the clutch slave and master cylinder. have someone push the clutch in and out while you watch the movement of the clutch fork to see that it's travelling in and out or back and forth to release the pressure from the clutch.
There is typically an inspection plate at the bottom of the transmission that can be removed for a bit more viewing of the components.
The throw-out bearing could be stuck or going bad, typically this would be like a grinding noise or whirring noise when in Neutral and or when applying the clutch, if this throw out bearing is going bad and they will if they sit for a while but usually will loosen up some or free itself a bit from usage - this is, if it's been sitting for a while and hasnt' been used in a while.
Finally there are brass syncro-mesh gears inside the transmission and if you miss the gears too many times the ends of these gears get worn and you wont get it into gear easily.
Check the fluids on your transmission firstly, there will be a plug on the side, half-way up that you remove and stick a finger in and the fluid level should be level with the check plug that you removed. If you put your finger in and feel no fluid then it is low and be sure to use the correct fluids - see your manual.
Prior to this perhaps there is an adjustment on the shifter linkage that has moved and doesn't allow the full travel of the shifter linkage. This is usually along side of the transmission where the linkage attaches to the transmission - look for a rod with a set-screw on it, sometimes the set-screw loosens or it slides and gives less travel and an easy fix. This is typical of the older Chev trucks but not certain about your specific model.
Hope this helps a bit to try and eliminate some things to get closer to resolving your vehicles issues.
Good luck.
East Coast Canada Rocks!
:)
No current is going to fuel pump and fuel pump is new
Check the fuel pump relay under the glove box. I found one on ebay for $20 and changed it in about 5-10 minutes. You have to remove a cloth cover but its only held on with twist clips. Videos on the internet are a big help.
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