20 Most Recent 1991 Jeep Wrangler - Page 9 Questions & Answers

You might check the fan,if it has a thermostatic clutch on it.
It should spin up with the same speed as the engine.And free wheel when the engine is first started. If it looks lazy,and just barely turning, in the heat of being stoped in traffic it may be whats causing the overheating.

Get yo self to yonder junkyard whilst there either buy a cover or copy what it says on a piece of paper!!!

I'm assuming you mean the box under your dash

if this isn't what you want let me know

please explain what you mean by leak detection ?? for what ---

Hope this helps

Jeep did not have a ignition control module for either engine this year. Are you sure you this is the name of the component your looking for?

Using a test light check the current going to the horn, and try to ground it out to see if it works that way. If it does, then the horn is ok, but the switch in the steering wheel may not be grounding out.

Hi. look carefully under the hood as there is usually a sticker showing this. Also, look in the owner manual. If all else fails go to any NAPA store and ask them for a copy of the diagram from their database. J.

start by lookig at the grounds to all light sockets

It should be under the hood towards the leftside of the motor.Thanks you for asking and I hope it helps.Please leave me a 4 thumbs up.

thundergod is right - there is a wire retainer clip that helps to secure the plastic crank to the metal post.

To remove it, I used a fat screwdriver to wedge between the bottom of the crank and the door panel. This gave me enough clearance to see and remove the wire retainer clip. Using needle-nose pliers, I managed to snag the clip. A quick pull and the clip was out and the crank handle popped right off.

After that, there are three torx screws that hold the interior panel in place - two at the bottom and one toward the left center of the panel.

But this is the easy part - removing the exterior handle is a bear...you'd be better off paying someone with the appropriate tools and knowledge to do that for you.

Remove the bolts holding the slave cylinder to the transmission. Disconnect the hydraulic hose. Reconnect hydraulic hose to new slave cylinder, and install the slave cylinder in it's original position.

Now proceed to bleed the line through the slave cylinder until a solid stream of fluid comes through, and the pedal pressure becomes firm.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

The problem was with the crank position sensor, and I had the feeling that is what was going to be at fault.

hypoid gear oil EP90

There should be a small master cylinder for the clutch right next to the brake master cylinder, mounted more towards the fender. Remove the top cover and look inside. Regular brake fluid is used in the clutch system. If it's low, likely you have a leak so check where the rod goes through the firewall under the dash, the line itself and the slave cylinder (some are outside the bellhousing, others are inside and fluid will leak from the bottom of it.

replace with new

Disconnect the battery, unbolt the alternator, remove the wires and write down or draw yourself a picture so you can put them back where you got them. Some need to be twisted and turned a bit to get them out. Replacing is the reverse of removal. It sometimes helps to partially un-bolt the brackets from the engine so you have a bit of room to get it back in.
My rule: If it's in your way, remove it (that can often save hours of extra work)