20 Most Recent 1984 Chrysler New Yorker Questions & Answers

Here's a quote from amy Chilton's manual for 1980-1987.

"Several types of fuel filters are used. One is located in the fuel tank of all the vehicles and is part of the fuel guage assembly. Second is a sealed paper element, in-line unit; mechanical system- located on the engine (above the fuel pump) or electrical system- located in front of the fuel tank. Third is a paper element, in-line fuel filter/vapor separator, housed in a fuel resevoir. Normally, the in-tank filter does not require changing. If it does, the fuel tank must be removed. "
This thing you describe sounds like the typical Chrysler in-line filter of its day. It is nothing more than the same generic in-line plastic see-thru filter you buy for your lawn mower except in the 70's and 80's it was covered in metal and had a Chrysler part number. A lot of guys added an extra filter in those days, it wasn't the best system. I would remove the outlet line and turn the fuel pump on, see if you get fuel. Replace if needed.

1984 Chrysler... | Answered on Apr 07, 2015

From you description of the fuel pump I take it that it is bolted to the block at the cam shaft probably with 2 bolts. If this is the case. then there will be 2 springs involved . One you can see by looking in past the lever and this spring keeps the lever in contact with the lobe on the shaft and so keeps the diaphragm working. The 2nd spring is inside the pump under the diaphragm and is what produces the pressure that keeps the fuel line to the carby full of fuel. If you have a sealed unit you will not see this spring as you have to split the carby body to get to it.. The big adaptor block is what you use to regulate the volume of fuel as it decides how close the pump is to the cam lobe and how much fuel is generated at each stroke . So if the block was there originally and you replaced with the same pump then leave the block there. These pumps are self regulating as to pressure and volume and the variables are the block thickness and the internal spring tension. Having said that--. if there is no spring on the lever then yes there will be a pumping problem
Distributors and coils are only involved it making high voltage and distributing the voltage to the correct plug in turn. cars I work on do not have fuel relays and cut off switches but draw fuel directly from the tank and push it to the carby. The coil will be most likely the best place to start looking for a starting problem because if there is no spark from the coil then it will not start. If you have points in the distributor then check the point gap. Remove the coil to the distributor cap and place it a small distance from the block . Turn on the ignition and using a small screw driver open the points (closed ) and you will get a spark from the coil lead. If you do not then there will be a problem at the points (Shorting out ) or condenser. If you have transistorised ignition then you will have to have the exciter block in the distributor check for operation. Coils can be checked with a multimeter and reading the internal resistance will indicate if it is good or burnt out.

1984 Chrysler... | Answered on Nov 19, 2013

I would say that the choke is staying on or the float is not controlling the fuel level . Remove the needle and seat and check for something holding the needle of the seat.

1984 Chrysler... | Answered on Nov 18, 2013

I'm going to assume it is the 2.2 engine with or without turbo.
It should have an idle air control valve that the computer uses to control idle speed. I would check that first. The throttle body may also be dirty.
If it has the 2.6 engine you have a carb that has an idle control motor to check.

1984 Chrysler... | Answered on Jul 29, 2012

Trans shift cable connected to carb needs to be adjusted or has been disconnected.

1984 Chrysler... | Answered on Feb 18, 2011

It's inside the heater box inside the car. If you need to change it the procedure is different for cars with A/C. Hope this helps.

1984 Chrysler... | Answered on Oct 11, 2010

is it a carby model?check fuel filter,fuel pump drainfuel bowl,do you have spark?check wires

1984 Chrysler... | Answered on Jan 23, 2010

change plugs, wires, and clean the carb. Just a basic tune up. If you don't know how to do the carb, just, at least, spray som e carb cleaner through it. It doesn;t get to all the places it should, but it will help somewhat. Adjust the air screws to get highest idle, without any misfiring. Check timing.

1984 Chrysler... | Answered on Sep 24, 2009

I think you have a suspect oil pressure sender unit. Replace it as they are cheap and need to be reliable and it will be cheaper than getting the oil pressure tested. If the light still stays on with the new sender you may have internal wear or a partial blockage. If the light stays on you need to have it urgently checked by a mechanic or you could risk serious engine damage.

1984 Chrysler... | Answered on Sep 06, 2009

You can pay a pool specialist with diving skills... it just costs more... it's only money. Though ordering a tanker to empty the pool and fill it again later may still be cheaper

Chrysler New... | Answered on Oct 10, 2017

Disconnect your battery to clear the fault codes, Start and run your vehicle again to see what pops up. For one, you are reading the MIL code and you should get a simple fault code reader for under $20. Use the emission control section of the Haynes manual to pinpoint the fault code. MIL codes are too generic to be of much worth. (Typically, what I do: 1) clean out the throttle body... you have to remove it and the two sensors on it... replace the idle control sensor if it's carbonated (can clean it up well enough), 2) the torque converter solenoids on these things are ticklish... replace it... easy job and have posted elsewhere on how to do it properly, new one costs $70 at NAPA,) Service the AT: gasket and filter. new fluid AF+4 only (Castrol for Chrysler is best). Unplug the ECU and TCM sensors after disconnecting the battery and spray electronics contact cleaner inside both ends: terminal and connector sides and let them air dry before replacing them and reconnecting the battery. Replace the EATX relay. Your fault is now gone and you gas mileage should go up a bit too! A new set of Iridium plugs will go far is adding a little power and improve gas mileage too. It's a project to get to the rear spark plugs; Nbr 1 especially. Removing the wiper arms, grill under the windscreen, wiper mechanism and the tray is sits above, and then you can get to the backside plugs. Use the 100K mile iridiums and nver have to worry about plugs again!

Chrysler New... | Answered on Aug 19, 2017

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