20 Most Recent 1997 Cadillac Seville - Page 7 Questions & Answers

take your car to advance auto parts they can check your entire charging system free of charge , it sounds like this is where your problem lies.

These are system lean coded. Cold be from leaky intake gaskets, leak after the maf or a faulty maf sensor.

These cars have temp sensors in each vent,this is defenitly a temp sensor or control module problem.Thats why problem comes and goes.Need to take to shop.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3.0L Engine

1. Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
2. Remove the air intake plenum.
3. Remove the intake manifold.
   1. Remove the bolts.
   2. Lift and support the manifold to allow access to the thermostat.
   3. Remove the intake manifold seals.
4. Remove the radiator inlet hose from the thermostat outlet pipe.
5. Remove the outlet pipe bolt, and the thermostat outlet pipe.
   1. Remove the O-ring seals.
6. Unbolt the thermostat housing bolts. Remove the thermostat housing with the thermostat.
   1. Tilt the rear of the thermostat housing upward, then lift it out.
   2. Remove the seal ring. Fig. 1: Location of the Thermostat outlet pipe - 3.0L Engine
      Fig. 2: The thermostat housing (2) is mounted to the engine using two retaining bolts (1) on the 3.0L Engine
      To install:
      
7. Install the thermostat housing with the thermostat and new seal ring.
8. Install the housing bolts and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
9. Install new O-ring seals and lubricate with coolant.
10. Install the thermostat outlet pipe bolt and tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
11. Connect the Radiator inlet hose to the thermostat outlet pipe.
12. Install the intake manifold.
    1. Install new seals.
    2. Position the intake manifold.
    3. Install new intake manifold bolts. Tighten the new bolts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
13. Install the air intake plenum.
14. Refill the engine cooling system.

4.5L and 4.9L Engines

1. Drain the coolant to a level below the thermostat housing.
2. It may be necessary to remove the upper air filter assembly on some models.
3. Remove the 2 bolts securing the upper thermostat housing to the lower housing.
4. Remove the upper thermostat housing.
5. Remove the thermostat and O-ring from the lower housing. Fig. 3: Thermostat installation - 4.5L and 4.9L engines
   To install:
   
6. Install the thermostat and a new O-ring to the lower housing.
7. Install the upper thermostat housing to the lower housing. Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
8. Refill the cooling system using a 50/50 mixture of water and ethylene glycol antifreeze.
9. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks. Allow the engine to come to normal operating temperature. Recheck for coolant leaks.

4.6L Engine

1. Drain the coolant to a level below the thermostat housing.
2. On some vehicles, access is easier if the front-end beauty panel and the air cleaner are removed.
3. Remove the 2 bolts securing the thermostat housing to the intake manifold.
4. Remove the thermostat housing.
5. Remove the thermostat and O-ring from the housing. Fig. 4: Thermostat installation - 4.6L Engine
   Loosen the upper radiator hose clamp at the thermostat housing
   Remove the upper radiator hose clamp from the thermostat housing
   Remove the thermostat housing retaining bolts and . . .
   . . . remove the thermostat housing from the engine
   Separate the thermostat from the housing
   To install:
   
6. Install the thermostat and new O-ring to the housing.
7. Install the thermostat housing to the intake manifold. Tighten the thermostat housing bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
8. Refill the cooling system using a 50/50 mixture of water and ethylene glycol antifreeze.
9. Install the air cleaner and beauty panel, if removed.
10. Start the engine and check for coolant leaks. Allow the engine to come to normal operating temperature. Recheck for coolant leaks.

Engine, with filter..........7.6 quarts

First I would obtain a listing of the Diagnostic Service Trouble Codes which might point you to what the malfunctioning problem might be. Usually, if their is a problem your Service Engine Light may be on.

I would also say to check the fuses for the fuel pump but if a fuse was broken or shorted the pump should not be working at all.

Before you replace a fuel pump, I would check out replacing the Fuel Filter and then the Fuel Presure Regulator. ( FPR ) Note: Their are 2 different types of ( FPR ) one for engines with Nylon Fuel Rails and one for engines with Stainless Steel Fuel Rails.

Another possibility is that your EGR Valve is malfuntioning or possibly the vacum to it has become disconnected or has a crack in its connecting hose. I am not going to detail the EGR more than this because it's the least likely cause except for checking its vacum hose connection which is easily checked and replaced.

Because of the backfiring or misfiring I would consider the possibility that one or more of your ignition coils might be going bad or has gone bad. It can also be caused by old spark plug wiring or even their connections to the ignition coils and the plugs.

IGNITION COIL PACK MODULES ( ICPM )

On a 1997 Cadillac Seville SLS if your running the Northstar engine it has( 4 ) Ignition Coil Pack Modules ( ICPM ) located just before the firewall on the passenger side. They can be replaced individually but since you can get them for anywhere between ($14 to $39 ) each I suggest you replace them all at one time.

Make sure and replace the ( ICPM ) in the proper sequence and that you get the spark plug wires reattached according to proper cylinder firing order. Older Igniton Coil Pack Modules had numbering for each cylinder on them, the replacement ones do not. Their is a correct sequence and I suggest either obtaining that or taking good notes and labeling the spark plug wires so that you get the correct ones put on in the proper order. You can also mark the ( ICPM ) with the correct numbers if that helps using a white ink marking pen.

The (Four ICPM) mount to an Igntion Control Module Circuit Board which has other wires and a grounding power cable connected to it. Just be careful that you don't damage any of the the connection wires that are on either end of the module.
I am not speaking of spark plug ignition wires, but other modular connecting wires that go to the Computer Control Module, etc.

Their is a good instruction guide located here:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528025eb00

OXYGEN SENSORS

Your car can also backfire if your Oxygen Sensors are defective. The 1997 Cadillac Seville has (4) Oxygen Sensors.
Oxygen Sensors work in pairs so you have to replace both units which complete a working pair match at one time.
Two of these can be self replaced with a little difficulty using a special tool ($10-$15 ). They are easier to replace if the car is jacked up a bit. Again the Diagnostic Service Trouble Codes can tell you if these are malfunctioning and which ones. . The two rear most Oxygen Sensors can be self replaced as mentioned above. The Oxygen Sensors located closer to the Manifold are more difficult to replace and usually need to be done at a shop because of their location.

(Use caution whenever working with a Jack or under a car supported by a Jack).

Replacing Igniton Coil Packs, Spark Plugs, Fuel Filters, the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Igniton Spark Plug Wires are considered part of a Tuneup Package and can all be done by yourself if your auto mechanically inclined and have a basic automotive tool set ($15 to $35).

If your replacing the plugs and wires make sure to get some lubricant to put on the wires and plugs before replacing and reattaching them. The lube is sold in small packages at most automotive store counters and costs about $1.50 a package.
You will need a couple of packages for each.

I recommend you also pick up some hand cleaner and shop rags while your their as well ( I prefer the GOJO or GOUP cleaners in the can which also have skin conditioners in them as well.) Cost about $10.

Obtain a listing of your current service trouble codes which may point to the trouble.
More than likely you might want to consider either or both of these possibilities.
1. Replace your fuel filter.
2. Replace your fuel pressure regulator.
You can replace the above yourself if you have basic mechanical automotive skills and simple tools.

3. Least likey is that your fuel pump is working intermittently.
The service trouble codes would likely tell you that.

You might also want to check any fuses or wiring connectors.
Cadillac has fuses under the hood and in the rear trunk area. The Trunk area fuses are behind the carpeted padding behind the rear seat on the drivers side.


Both can be done yourself if your the least bit talented with tools and getting a tiny amount of grease on your hands.


Important: Only Work on these with the ignition turned off and cold. Otherwise fuel might leak on a hot item and cause a fire or explosion from the gasoline vapors.

When replacing both remember to release the fuel pressure first. Their is usually a valve at the end of the fuel rail with a covered scharder valve to do this. Just remove the cover, save in a safe place for reuse. Then with a small nail or similar item press in on the small pin to releive the pressure. ( It's similar to letting air out of a tire ) Make sure to have a rag and small cup to catch any fuel that leaks out. Once the pressure has been released fully, you can put the cover cap back on the schradrer valve. Now you can work on replacing the parts. Fuel pressure is restored when your done by simply restarting the engine.

The fuel filter is located on the bottom of the car frame rail just under the rear driver side car door.

The fuel pressure regulator is connected to the fuel rail lines toward the rear side of the engine manifold cover . If you have nylon rail fuels use the Fuel Pressuer Regulator for Nylon Fuel Rails. If you have Stainless Steel Fuel Rails use the Fuel Pressure Regulator for Stainless Steel Fuel Rails.

See the attached pictures.

Again, wipe up any spilled fuel and let vapors dissipate before restarting the car.

That is a broken or rusted fuel line. It only leaks when the fuel pump is running.

could of blew a fuse or fan switch or temp control unit or blower motor

check fuses /then blower motor then blower motor resistor

you will need a new one programed for it

You have a faulty Voltage Regulator or relay in the power Distribution box under the hood.

you may have to start from scratch with starting your car. does your radio have to be recoded after the battery dies? if so do not attempt to do this!! remove the positive side of battery terminal for 10 mins. this will reset the cars computer. whan you put the positive cable back onto the battery the car should start, if not, try to boost the car. the car should start. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com

usually on the same side as your fuel fill door, underneath the car.

just regular antifreeze mixed 50 /50 with water ( distilled water if you are realy picky ) Just make sure the antifreeze is aluminum compatable. ( almost all are these days )

The starter is under the intake manifold. Hope this will help you.

Check cooling system for presence of exhaust fumes. Your unit has head bolt issues and compression gasses enter cooling system. VERY expensive to repair correctly.

Means your system has, what we call a hard code, something that needs to be repair, need to pull code's out, get back with us with the code number so we can help you diag. your trouble code, most auto parts or some one like autozone will do this service for free, hope this was very helpful.

AC BLOWS COLD OUT OF DEFROSTER NOT THE VENTS