1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

find source of sound first. noise means danger. find it. first. post location, or point to in in a photo. see add image below, un blind us.

Look for the dipstick where you check the transmision fluid level. If you need any you pour it down the dipstick hole. Add it in small amounts and check in between additions, its really easy to overfill. Once overfilled a real pain to get it out.

Go to Walmart or local part store and buy a can of sea foam and pour it in you gas tank with a quarter tank of gas. You can also pour a little bit in your vacuum line that connects to brake manifold. Rev the engine to about 3 to 4 thousand rpms. Keep doing this till white smoke stops or alot of black junk is coming out of the exhaust. This is a tune up in a can and will clean carburetors and injectors. You can also put in oil before a oil change and do the same thing to help clean engine.

E-Brake cable is either worn/broken, or could either be E-brake pads are very worn.

I agree ...alternator...just conks out while driving and then won't start. Mine conked out after going through some water. If it's still engaging but not starting I would definitely check alternator. You can but rebuilt instead of new and save some $$$

name one, inside or outside car, we cant guess. this. ?

Fuel Pump Failed ? Have to come here with what you have tested, how & the results Could be any of ten things,can't guess just to give you an answer

What voltage checks have you done? It doesn't leave much other than the wiring and I assume you have checked there's a power feed from the fuse which you will have checked? A corroded connector seems likely. Check continuity and voltages through the wiring, and look very carefully at the connectors near the blower for heat damage or corrosion as that's the most likely point of failure

Have you checked the backup light switch ?

Could be a faulty airbag sensor. Uses the same chime.

The pump can be running but not pumping any fuel. When it stops running you will need to figure out if you are loosing spark to the plugs or fuel to the injectors.

Couple things come to my mind, is the battery or alternator. Once the car is running it then shifts to the alternator for power. You could have a loose cable to to/from the battery or alternator, a thermal short in the alternator. To check these our just inspect the wiring from the alternator and battery, ensure there is no corrosion and the cables are tight. If so, you can test the alternator by running the car and putting a multi-meter on the battery, it should read about 14 volts when the car is running, if not then the alternator is bad. On the battery side visually look at it, if it is not square or the sides are bulged out the battery has an internal short. Both of these can be check at your local auto store, ie AutoZone. O'Riley's, etc. That is the simple, the harder would be another sensor, Here is a link to another site that has a Jeep dying while driving with troupleshooting

Check the fan operation to the radiator. If the secondary fan doesn't come on it can't dissipate the heat generated from the condensor. There are relays that control the fan under the hood in the electrical center. Check power and ground to both fans when vehicle running A/C on, both fans should be running. Check for blockage in front of rad / condensor.

the part that the bearings run in is possibly that worn it will not hold together. I have repaired CV Joints before and you usually replace the whole knuckle at the end of the shaft or exchange the shaft for a reconditioned one.

While this can be caused by many problems, a very common one is the 'idle air control.' These are not very costly or difficult to replace.

If it is not the fuse, then it is probably the wiring harness leading to the driver's door. If the main driver's switch has no power, then none will work.

the A/C drain is stopped up, causing water to fill the "heater box" and spill into the cabin, right into the passenger floor.

Brief research on your Jeep shows multiple sources for electrical problems and the only way to trouble shoot this kind of problem is to search for the solution on line or to disconnect the battery (negative first-always), connect a meter (measuring Ohms or continuity) between the positive battery cable end and ground and successively disconnect any associated cables or devices, one path at a time, until a larger change is shown on the meter. This is a challenging task but if given to a dealer or mechanic familiar with the details of the electrical system, it will be costly since, unless this is a known failure in the wiring harness, it could take a lot of dis-assembly, plugging and unplugging of connectors to locate. Owning a 'workshop' manual with electrical diagrams at a cost of ~$25 US is something I recommend for any DIYer. Good luck-

I do not know anything about a ford..I but chevy trucks...

There is usually 4 and you'll most likely have to remove the grill and maybe even the headlights to get to them.