Top 20 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 9 Questions & Answers

before you do that change the oil. put 2 quarts in then add 1 quart Lucious Stablizer then top it off with the rest of your oil. run it for about 1,000 miles see if that will fix the problem. a lot of the time Lucious will break down the crud in the lifters rockers and help lub it. does not alwasys work but a lot of the time it will.

1995 ? Jeep GC? what path.? what function. the FSM covers this,... use a voltmeter, and the FSM schematic to test the paths. some switches ground for true logic, others 12vdc. the schematic makes all that clear. look here for free fsm. otherswise buy one or use alldata.com the best way to test , is live . post a symptom and we can tell you what to do. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service see both chapters INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEMS AND WIRING.

Really need more info,what malfunction switch are ou refering to the check engine light?? If so go to Autozone and the can check to see if it is on due to problem with your Emissions or other mechanical issues.

Leaking by axles or input shaft (driveshaft),if it is the pinion change the seal, make a dot mark with a punch on the nut and the pinion before removing the yoke to tight it at the same place, unless you do that you will burn the bearing it hapen to me one time

if you starter is not turning over then the trouble is the solenoid on top of your starter it is sticking. or contacts check the wires on it.

find a new mechanic.

There is usually 4 and you'll most likely have to remove the grill and maybe even the headlights to get to them.

This is a very common problem on the jeep, in fact I have just replaced mine. If the horn relay clicks as you have already said then the horns themselves are most likely the problem. Look up under the front fender next to the radiator just forward of the passenger wheel; the horns are there. Remove them, only one bolt hold both and try them on a battery, if they don't beep change them, they are about $30 for the pair.

sounds like an internal problem not something you want to work on unless you understand transmission operation

Your problem can come from several sources, the solenoid can have a failed coil and this is easy to check for once a control terminal (thinner wire) is disconnected by measuring resistance with a multimeter. This should be in the low Ohms range and is a few Ohms, in any case under 20. Disconnect the negative side of the battery (always this one first) before attempting to locate the problem, The heavy terminals of the solenoid can be corroded and should be cleaned with a wire brush. Internally, the solenoid contacts which are exposed to 100+ amperes when starting, can arc away with time and either exhibit intermittent on no contact at all. If the coil is energized, the power terminals of the solenoid should measure the same as the multimeter leads when just shorted to each other. Any resistance measurable with a standard meter should be close to zero. If the solenoid seems OK, then the battery clamps and cables should be removed and cleaned at every junction. This means at the battery, the connection to the solenoid, the connection to the starter. If any of these is less than perfect, they can drop all of the 12 volts robbing the starter of energy. After all these have been done, reconnect the battery, positive clamp first, then finally the negative terminal.

Easy test ground the sensor wire to ground(intake manifold) the guage should max out if not check for power on the back of the instrument panel at the guage if you have power on one side ground the other side if it works .If grounding it at the guage makes it work bad connection at the sensor or broken wire

Rear main seal of engine is leaking. Tough to change....have to drop tranny and remove the flywheel, to get to it.

do the brake lights behind car work? are you on flat ground? you lost the operators guide, sure, car is old. but it is there, it tells you what to do. (ive posted this 10 times here) ALL cars with A/T tranny have a park lockout, device (safety) on all older cars, they have a bypass. to bypass the park lock safety device in an emergency. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1182114&parttype=909 on many cars there is a bypass, method, (a secret part of console to bypass this, i dont have 95 opr, guide to look it up. this jeep does have a cable from the ignition switch to this feature on the shifter, and they must both work, to get out of park. is the red button loose, yes., then it has come detached. access it and put the rod back. (inside) the tests and repair are in the fSM under transmission. are you on lflat ground, are you parked on a hill.with wheels to the curb? park can stick 2 ways, the parking on hill+curb makes the parking pawl stick inside the transmission. (ask how to solve) or the park lockout feature, is failing. one is transmission caused, other is shifter lever parts failing. every why possible for this to mess up is covered here. lots. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/gtsearch.php?cx=partner-pub-7865546952023728%3A3954141121&cof=FORID%3A11&q=park+stuck&sa=Search wild tricks> rumors You can bypass it if you want to get out of park. Just turn the key past the lock position, but stop turning before any accessories turn on. This position will let you shift without the safety switch stopping you. From here, shift into neutral and start the car. You can then shift into whatever gear you like.

You have a timing chain that is good for the life of the engine. The only thing that could need replacing is the chain tensioner if it starts to make noise.

Freddie, Your Toy is coming up 20 years old, has it been serviced along the way? You don't say how many miles its done? Has anything else happened, milky oil on the dipstick or over pressure in the rad header tank? Any discolouration of the coolant? If its been run without antifreeze or summer coolant ( in the lower states) then its quite likely the head gasket has corroded giving cylinder trouble. You say you've done some tasks but before you spend a dime on parts try and establish the fault. Get a cylinder compression tester, remove all the plugs and test all the cylinders for cranking pressure. They should all be within a few pounds of each other. If one or more is low, and they are adjacent, then that could indicate the gasket has blown between cylinders. If all similar and near spec then move on to other service parts, plugs, leads etc. One trick to finding a dodgy lead is to have the car in a dark spot, lift the hood, spray a little water(old detergent sprayer etc) over the coils and leads, start up and see if there are any sparks tracking away down the outside indicating poor leads. I don't know if this Toy has hydraulic lifters, if not get all the valve clearances checked. Think about doing all the checks in a methodical manner and don't jump to conclusions just because a pal had a similar problem. When all the mechanical checks are done and there is no obvious culprit then move on to the engine electricals, sensors etc where life gets more difficult.

please elaborate.

1. no 12vdc car main battery power to key switch/?
2. or no coin cell power to key fob.? (eg: fob is dead)
3. or does this mean, i turn the ignition key and engine dont crank.?

No sir they will not interchange. i worked at a transmission shop for 7 years. the inline 6 has a 500 trans in it and the v8 has a 518 trans in it. the bellhousings are different.

If the fuse is ok remove the tailgate panel and you will see the motor, if your lucky you can back out, turn anticlockwise, the plastic flat head screw sticking out of the side of the motor a turn or two. This might get it going again. Generally this motor is a bit crappy so you will probably need to get a new one. Its a quick job now you have the panel off. If you can use a volt meter you could check there is voltage present on the wires on the motor, if there is and the plastic screw trick failed it a new motor needed.

which engine? a Jeep Chebby>? huh? no matter, its all in the FSM or at alldata.com or go to pub. library and read the first book on engine service? or amazon books, there are 100s of books cover this, i have the top ones on my shelf.

Hello Robert, not sure if this will help ... http://www.wjjeeps.com/speed_sensors.htm k