Top 20 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Page 7 Questions & Answers

If you have a 6 cyl engine it is locted at the flywheel drive plate, if you have a 4.7L v8 it is at a reluctorwheel at the rear of the crankshaft.

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the part that the bearings run in is possibly that worn it will not hold together. I have repaired CV Joints before and you usually replace the whole knuckle at the end of the shaft or exchange the shaft for a reconditioned one.

I agree ...alternator...just conks out while driving and then won't start. Mine conked out after going through some water. If it's still engaging but not starting I would definitely check alternator. You can but rebuilt instead of new and save some $$$

the park lockout shift sol. or the inside tranny hyra-solenoids.

Assuming 4wd or AWD. Remove wheel. With someone in the car pressing on brakes, remove the center nut (pinion nut). I use impact gun once the retaining clips are off. Now remove brakes (rotor and all) Unbolt hubs (good time to replace them if needed). Press hub off pinion. I use a large steering wheel puller/harmonic balancer puller. Axle now will slide out of the hole where the hub was. Consider replacing the ball joints at this time (use OTC ball joint press + the jeep specific adapters there is a slight angle to the inner C's and if you don't have the jeep specific adapters you will spend hours cursing . Changing the axle (or hubs) is mainly an excercise it getting rusted bolts off. Changing ball joints - with the right tools - is not to bad. Check with autoparts store for the torque values to tighten everything up. Obviously check your brakes while you are in there.

Usually in the lid ! Refer to you tube !

not sure what that is I fixed all of my issues by googling the problem and trying somethings that came up

What voltage checks have you done? It doesn't leave much other than the wiring and I assume you have checked there's a power feed from the fuse which you will have checked? A corroded connector seems likely. Check continuity and voltages through the wiring, and look very carefully at the connectors near the blower for heat damage or corrosion as that's the most likely point of failure

If it is not the fuse, then it is probably the wiring harness leading to the driver's door. If the main driver's switch has no power, then none will work.

old post. under hood panel is under hood. open hood, open PDC lid in car its underdash, see it? called JB or just fuse box. the FSM is free, see 1993 for close match. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

While this can be caused by many problems, a very common one is the 'idle air control.' These are not very costly or difficult to replace.

Emission testing uses the OBDII service port, there would have been DTC codes store. You need those codes. Automotive part stores will check for stored code for free.

Have you checked the backup light switch ?

That's an OBD II code. 95 should only have 2 digit codes. If it's newer than 95, you should update the post

You have water in the brake system, it boils and applies the brakes. Different size tires will set a trouble code, but not apply brakes.

what if it doesn't want to change? (shrink jokes) ok why not read the manual first ,then ask questions. make sense? click heating and AC tab. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service simple question usually are huge complex answers on cars. they are complex mix if tech. but HVAC tops list. due to laws, tools needed, RTM , then read again.

y axe y? that is Misfire! 90 % are not doing tune up's, for 10 decade or longer. need the list , missing in glove box>? is the CEL lamp glowing running? sure it is. and did you get the flash codes yet?> http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service read the zj page see emissions page 2. for errors

crank position sensor(s) is broken.

could be a vacuum leak