still won't shift
The word button , tips hand that it is a automatic trans,
but not which one. they had 2 that year, 42/44re and
the AW4 box, has a TCM (tranny brain.)
and all tranny brains go to limphome mode, (skipping or freezing 2nd) if inputs are WRONG.
the TCM can be scanned, to see why, skipping this step misses the boat,
I have the 1995 FSM book. chapter 21.
42 or 44RE trans? is that yours. the tag on side tells you what it is. look for the tag, and learn what car run for a drive-line.
see" trans... opt" here. ZJ
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
page 21-45 is diagnosis page, in the FSM book.
ON car service, and step 2 is scan it. (step one is fuses. levels)
ever consider read this book on this car and this trans?
here is the non tool way,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWXaoC3Qi7g
i use a Innova 3140 , tool that does jeep 1993-95, OBD1
i have not tried, to see if it will log a trans DTC;s
using a real scan tool , helps greatly to see all TCM codes.
most TCM can do 10 error code, all very revealing.
make sure the transmission is grounded, with a good ground strap
seen people replace trans 3 times, then do strap last. sad.
Trans issues are many
(ill skip bad trans)
wiring bad, from TCM to trans, or from TCM to all sensors. to it.
bad TCM
lost power 12vdc to TCM for any reasons.
lost ground to trans or TCM.
a scan tool that can scan this back in 1995 was the DRB-ii
DOES THAT HELP?
Did you change oil before starting after sitting 6 months? Oil goes bad just sitting, because moisture condenses in the oil pan, which leads to acid formation that can etch main and rod bearings. Best advice is get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and hook it up where electrical unit is now to check if your oil pressure is really low or not.
It will lack lots of power going up hill, especially if its a really steep one and you keep it in drive. Make sure you downshift to second, or fist if its really steep.
ill guess you mean it cranks perfectly and will not start.
or same but runs for 3 seconds and stalls.
is the ASD relay closing? cranked?
or closes cranking as it should. but drops out mid cranking?
well if it drops out , that means the ECU saw a failure.
up to 8 reasons, all seen with any scan tool (obd2, jeep)
http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html
each of the 8 ways (upto) can be seen and then check that cause.
lets say the CMP is dead, so you get code 54?
if luckly this can work, (weak methods)
Key trick is (On/off/On/off/On/ ) see CEL (MIL) flash 2 digit codes now...
but that key off , can erase codes !!!!!!!!!! case in point spark lost.
the tests are easy, ask.
my guess is the weak side is bad, the load side is ok.
you can turn the volume down on the load side using volumn control
if yes that side is ok, fix weak side.
ask how, but make sure the wiring in all 4 corners are not damage
and at both ends of harness.
If there is no power going to the sensor, it could be a wiring or computer issue, the computer could be sending an actual problem or the sensor could be faulty and therefore disabled. Try unplugging your battery for about 15 minutes and then trying again, this will clear the computers codes. If that works however, you probably will need to replace the sensor as the issue will most likely return.
You have a mess on your hands .If you ever want to store any kind of gas engine you need to put fuel stabelazer in the gas and run it for for some time at high speed conduitions as well as low speed before you walk away from it .
The best advice I can give is remove the air cleaner get it all off the top of the engine.Take some HI test gas poor an ounce or 2 the engine see if you can get it running and keep it running for 30 sec if you can get that out of it .It WILL WORK .
Then do a complete tune up all wires cap rotor pcv plugs check belts the hoses belt tenisioners radiator antifreeze engine oil transmission oil keep pouring gas down the bearral then start with the carb cleaner and injector cleaner if it runs for any extended time.Your not supposed to do things like this to engines if you expect them to run.
On the throttle. Under the hood, you will see the air filter plenum going to the throttle. On the throttle you will see cables coming from the firewall connecting to the throttle linkage. Just opposite of that linkage is the throttle position sensor(TPS). two screws/bolts hold it on.
Anything I tell you is going to be a guess, since there has been no testing done, and we don't have the model number of the specific radio involved. However...
For a 20 year old radio, the volume and balance is almost certainly controlled by a potentiometer that has input into one leg of the fixed resistance, and the other leg (of the fixed resistance) is grounded. The movable center tap is the output to the amplifier - and its position controls the volume to that channel. If the ground leg becomes disconnected (broken wire, or a cold solder joint, or even a break in the resistor within the body of the potentiometer) then instead of "dividing" the volume, it simply provides a slight resistance inline - short answer: It goes full volume.
You can try running the control full range back and forth, and even just the old time "slap it" approach, to see if you get any static or change. If you do, that pretty well confirms the diagnosis. [If not, it just means the break is not close to touching - still almost certainly the right answer though.]
Only fix is going to be disassembly. You then may be able to find the break (and resolder it), and/or replace the volume potentiometer. Note that if you have remote volume/balance control (controls on the steering wheel), then there is some extra wiring that can likewise be involved. jk
what does getting mean? which engine, 4Liter or 5.2 or what?
spark at all cylinders is getting and timed right?
runs on test fuel so sparks good, that means fuel is bad
or flooding or too little fuel.
code 12 cranking for 5 seconds, means sensors are ok.
why replace parts that make spark when sparks good, it run on test fuel, why worry spark.? and not just fueling.?
now lets do fuel, step one is fuel pressure, not squirt tests.or dribble test. a real tool called,a fuel pressure gauge that works, and nothing else, (unless rail is dry and now we know its not)
if all spark plug tips are dry, are they?
then its not injecting, (the ECU can cut injection for 2 reasons) ask
or there is no real pressure.
so we open the FSM and read page FUELING
49psi is idle pressure, (more cranking with so little vacuum)
the tests are all there,
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
cab fuse or engine bay fuse? JB or PDC box?
no not true.
so why not post what the car does good and bad.
car runs perfectly and shifts ? all that.
all other light in car work? radio, etc.
with parking lights on does cluster glow? (back ground illumination?)
the cluster warning lights are dead , all are dead?
are all gauges, dead too? if some are say what? are dead.?
fuel , and engine heat?
the fsm is free.with full docs and schematics, lets look together now.
WJ jeep 95
click wiring (at end)
chapter 8w-40-1
volt meter in hand.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service
see that page?
page 2 to 9 is cluster "instruments "
PDC fuse 17 (engine bay) is PDC
and cab JB fuse 10
so 22 is bogus. there is no fuse 22 (usa car)
there is fuse 22 terminal. on fuse 9 and fuse 21>?
forget terminals, we do fuses real names,
first off, the cluster is a computer, im not privy to its programming,
(is anyone?)
but it must communicate to the PCM or its will fail, on the canbus
so turn on ignition (car battery charged to 12.6vdc rested)
all warning lights come one.
if not the cluster is not happy, this is a selft tests. of lamps.
the fuse posted above are the only fuses for it. PDC 17 and JB10
we use a scan tool next to be sure the PDC is not barfing comm errors. first. (or DTCs stating power loss)
recap
read the manual above
see the correct fuses for cluster
see that it is a computer with comm lines.
if those 2 pins on the cluster are12vdc key on then that is not the problem and the ground pin on cluster is at 0v, not 12v.
fuse 5 and 9 run (JB) run air bag computer box.
this is power to the cluster below, 8w-40--2
the whole cluster runs off those 4 power pins, if power is lost
the cluster brain goes dead. the left pin below is memory pin.
right top is main power. to cluster.
if this is good
a scan tool is necessary to move on.
just like all cars with CanBUS, ,
an innova 3140 works. good.
If fuse 22 is good it is most likely a wiring issue, most likely with one of the airbags sensors, I would personally not bother fixing it. Airbags from the 90's are almost as dangerous as the crash. Drive carefully, don't count on it working. Your truck is 20 years old and the wiring is only gonna get worse, it's the car equivalent of cancer.
If the crank sensor solved the problem before it may have gone bad already , I would start with that. Fuel pressure on a 95 grand needs to be 37 to 41 psi. Check to make sure you have adequate pressure . You may also want to test your Idle air control valve and Throttle position sensor to insure proper operation.
if this is good
a scan tool is necessary to move on.
just like all cars with CanBUS, ,
an innova 3140 works. good.
