all cars now have radio codes.
when lost some go dead, 100% others tune ok but sound is cut only.
in your case. check fuse first
some cars have seperate amp. and its own fuse.
this is all covered in the FSM and at alldata.com. USA>
so the radio dont tune, most you can see it tune with the seek button
see it scan and stop at station, this shows you it has power.
Going? (the lamp going on, or actual true 4wd,?)
are you on ice or dirt. its not for dry pavement
dry means, missing ice.
your car is not AWD.
did you read the operators manual, yet, it covers this as does
wiki, and here
here are the rules. and the test.
ask for test front wheels off ground, , that too is covered in the FSM.
http://www.fixkick.com/part-time-test.html
this part time 4WD? option>?
are you on ICE, snow, dirt or pavement.
part time is not for pavement free of ice, you know that?
only AWD works on non iced pavement.
RTM
I would check the routing of the belt as you may have it over a pulley instead of under it . If you are correct then one of the idler pulleys will be adjustable to tension the belt. there are 13 diagrams for the belt but in all the tensioner is the idler pulley next to the crank pulley and in a clockwise rotation has the belt going over the top of it
smelling ? raw gas or half burnt fuel, or oil smoke?
post what car does, good and bad.
i guess you have A/T tranny automatic,
does the transmission slip?
if it does, post that, if dont know, ask any mech, with ASE badge on the sleeve, diagnosis is first. some things like gas leaks are very dangeous.
wow, you did it backwards, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
ever do the op guide lilsted tune ups at 60k intervals? miles>? if not why not?
did you try op guide stated WOT test, crank WOT, wide open throttle.
starts now (well it was flooded1) nothing, well, it's below.
watch scotty.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
fuses good. battery at 12v not 10v. , fresh fuel, not 3 years old.
key on CEL glows.
cranks engine, cranks robustly.
you then check for spark. on all 6 COP coils. MUST WORK.
iS spark good or bad. .? ( all gas engines. not diesel)
good spark , yes,. try test fuel. (sold in stores,,,,,, in a spray can)
if test fuel runs good for:
no spark , attach any cheap scan tool, and crank for 5 sec.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/no-spark.html#Cops
release key (not off) and see if P0340 or P0355 or close are thrown
YES, bingo and make sure RPM shows at near 300 cranking
if not, the CKP is dead.
A: 3 seconds each try, then the engine is good and so is spark if it sounds really good,..
B starts and runs, must have been flooded or no tune up ever.
C: starts and floods, again, and stalls, trouble shoot flooding.
D: Dead as a door nail. that means its:
1: bad engine, (compression way below 170psi)
2: or lost fueling. check spark tips , wet, is flooding or no spark.'
2a: or low fuel pressure, use a fuel pressure gauge.
0 or 2 psi bad, 20 bad, 30 good, 60 bad. 60 it floods. below 30 it starves. the FSM covers all pump tests, there are 6 tests.
there is also an injector balance test, if fails, the injector is dead or leaks all the time and floods a cylinder.
is this good, ?????
if not do you just want a simple guess?
ok my wild useless guess.
1: not ever tuned up;. "know today as, doing the service points''
check and bleed the clutch system at the slave cylinder and if that dose not improve the clutch operation then replace the master cylinder. If the system is cable operated then replace the cable. If you have removed the clutch to replace it then the clutch plate is probably in the wrong way round and the centre is hitting on the flywheel bolts.
which engine? 2L I4 or 2.5L V6? chocking, it bogs full time. total loss of power at all times? any speed, any hill, any gear.is this a A/T or M/T car, the A/T can slip. easydoes the engine lack power, or does the tranny slip.slipping is easy to discover, the RPM of the engine rise fastbut you go now where fast.bogging can happen in many modes. (all or just 1: pick one)all permutations1: hot engine?2: cold or both.?3: wont race even in neutral, but idles ok. at 800 rpm.?4: only with a fast right foot,called tip in throttle. but recovers.!5: lost power at all driving loads, and worse on hills.?6: all the above.?in a real shop, i drive it and in a few minutes all the above is seen and vastly more, that is why online help is so bad, (me too)no inputs. = wild guessing.....heck i even notice things like?dash volt meter dropping. below 14v at any time running.overheatingCEL glowing or worse flashing (USA feature , OP never said)old noises and vibration.clutch slipping or A/T slipping.Scan tool connected, and seeing pending codes, or any odd PID behaviors.bad idle speed, idle speeds not controlled correctly.and 100 more things, Ill stop here, it's a complex machine.
run fault codes to determine the faulty sensors. It is a fallacy that you can tune up a CPU controlled vehicle as the computer is keeping it in tune at all times. It will log fault codes when the parameters are exceeded.
ok its not fibbing, the 4wd is engaging while it should not.the answer is in the book. the FSMand at alldata dot com. as a rule with suz, cars, is that early years.the light is before the fact and later years after the fact.but dont matter here, due to its in 4wd.and will windup on pavement (are you on that or dirt.?)do not drive a car with stuck 4wd (part time 4wd is not AWD)its a danger to you and all others on the road.On my GV. it works like this, and 04, , I have all the books on muy car, so i can DIY . at any time.fixing cars is complex an wiring blind is dangerous to you and the drive line.volume1 chapter 3B3.the ECU sees 4wd and glows the light .the ECU gets this fact from the 4wd small air pump.this year, uses a front axle modulethis model is an air pumpthis #2 module has and air presure switchso bingo lamp on means the air pump is running. (maybe)so either that air switch is fibbing, its not you feel 4wd engaged.or the 4wd command switch is stuck closed. bingo.this switch closes (or breaks) and tells ECU to engage4wd, the ECU then starts the air pump then the pump runsand the air pressure acutaly (vac actuators) move the front axle to 4wd axle lock mode.that is the whole deal.a volt meter at the switch, teminal to ground readblack-org wire 12v ,not 4wd.0v , engage 4wd, (move the lever key on, and see it toggle.0v, 12v, 0v ,12v, the sure sign of a good switch.
where are you, in n.america , where?onlinethe full FSMevery word, but if you car is not USA, then i can not help you.Im thinging we dont have 04 TD here. but can be wrong.and too lazy to check.2003 TD in what country, as you may not knowSuz, uses different Diesels in diff . countries. . see?of 100s of posts, on this forum, not one, ever posted their countryand is the first question, and not answered makes all answerstotally wrong, laws vary vastly by country and cars to match.http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html
