20 Most Recent 1995 Chrysler Cirrus Questions & Answers

how are you reading these codes? if you have an OBDII code reader then you should get a 4 digit code. you can go here to learn what they mean http://engine-codes.com/search_codes.php?q=33

I have a '95 Cirrus LX 2.5L V6 (with 150k miles) that has been having the same problem -- it just shuts off unexpectedly while driving and then fails to start right afterward. No "Check Engine" light beforehand and no fault codes were stored. After setting for a while, the car would eventually start again. Initially this problem happened only seldomly but over several months it gradually became more frequent.

After doing a lot of research on the Internet and troubleshooting with the Haynes manual, the prime suspects were as follows:
1) Crankshaft Position Sensor (mounted onto the engine block under the distributor). I replaced this and the car started but it didn't last long before it abruptly quit again. This time, whatever was degrading finally broke for good; the car would no longer start even after sitting for a couple days.

2) Camshaft Position sensor and/or ignition coil -- (both are in the distributor on the 95 Cirrus LX 2.5L V6). I replaced the distributor (cost about $225). The car still would not start, though!

Using the electrical diagrams in the Haynes manual, I began troubleshooting and found that all of the top three mentioned items use the same +8VDC from pin 44 of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). I was only reading +4.88VDC -- way too low for for the two 'Hall Effect' solid-state sensors to work properly.

I didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars buying a new PCM if I wasn't absolutely sure it was the problem so I took out my PCM (it's up front between the fuse box and the air cleaner on the driver's side and can be removed fairly easily). Since this is a single-board electronic device, being an electronics technician, I tried an old trick and froze the PCM for more than 12 hours so the circuit board and solder joints would contract and make a better connection. I then reinstalled the PCM and tried starting the engine -- and it fired right up and ran smoothly.

So, the PCM (P/N PO4606064) ended up being my problem.

NOTE: There are two replacement models of PCM for this car. One model is for cars with "Firm Feel Suspension (FFS)" and another model for those without; mine DOES NOT HAVE FFS. Make sure you get the correct one.
Also, on one of the threads on the Internet for another person having this same problem, a Master Mechanic stated that 'Firm Feel Suspension (FFS)' was the same thing as "Speed Sensitive (power-assisted) Steering (SSS)". I confirmed with the Chrysler experts that THIS IS NOT THE CASE! They are separate things -- according to my VIN, my car does not have FFS but it has SSS.

It means the cmputers are unable to communicate with each other or connected components. Needs to be diagnosed with a very expensive reader that usually only dealers ir very large shops have.

If the key fob isnt working to deactivate it, it should deactivate by unlocking the drivers door with the key. or do you need to permanently deactivate it?

Sounds like your serpintine belt came off or is really slipping on the engine pullies...

Here is what I do on my 95 Cirrus I also do not have a keyless remote (well I do but is broke) and after frustation after frustation trying to disarm the factory alarm I find out that by unlocking the passenger front door with the ignition key from the outside will disarm it you may have to try few times before it's disarmed you need to make sure that the blinking red light stops blinking and all of the locks on all 4 door are up or unlocked, this is what I been doing for 3 years now and that's how I disarm the alarm on my car, I hope this helps.

Bad head gasket?

My first advice is to throw the out and buy something a little more dependent than that piece of s...junk. But if that option does not appeal to you for whatever reason try this. Try replacing the fuse, sometimes the fuse may look fine but is not functioning properly. Or try replacing the relay switch for the wiper motor. If that does not work than you have a couple of different possible issues. I would suggest taking it into a shop to get it fixed because it will take time and skill to find the problem. Take a multimeter and check the volts leading into the fuse. If you have no power leading to your fuse that the problem might be a wire the wire leading into your box. If you have power there than you need to follow the wire leading out of the back of the box to your gauges. Check the power at each point in the sire system leading to your gauges and you will know if a stretch of wire is bad. If one part of the wire is burnt or fired than you will need to check the volts and amps leading to your wire and find out why you are getting too much power to that area or it will continue to happen until you fix the issue. If this does not help you than i would need to take a look at the car to help you more.

it may have a speed censer in the dash get that working & maybe your transmission problem will resolve itself

I think that the cam shaft sensor is part of the distributor on this model car. If the car does not start I would suspect other issues besides this sensor. Normally this sensor being bad just causes a car to run really bad.

Have to remove the door panels and remove the knocks mounting holes should be already there.

This is the belt routing diagram for a Chrysler NY Salon 3.3L 1993
model. Hope it helps you. Gregg.

Probably not water pump. Engine is notourious for vapour lock.
Cooling system must be blead of air before thermostat will work. Cool bottom rad hose is a dead give away. If you are still watching this forum reply , and I will walk you through the only way I know how to make it work properly. It's actually easy if you do it my way. I have worked on lots of cars , and this engine was the hardest to bleed out. Did one Yesterday , and works perfect.

I had this problem with my 2002 Chrysler Town and country. and even thou the "CHECK ENGINE" light was never on, it turned out to be a bad oxygen sensor. I replaced fuel pump and fuel filter cause it acted like it was starving for fuel, but that was not the problem. Typically if an O2 sensor is bad, a code will come up and the "CHECK ENGINE" light will be on, but not in my case. I replaced both O2 sensors (upper and lower) and it solved the problem and has been fine since. By the way, I got both O2 sensors from a junk yard where you take parts off yourself. I marked them right after removing them so they would go into my van in same places. Much cheaper, used, and they are factory, OEM parts compared to the junk universal type O2 sensors, they sell at part stores. Plus the fact that u have to splce your wire harness plugs onto the universal type they sell. terrible that it didn't throw a code, but I heard that this happens at times.

check fluid level replace input out put speed sensors and solinoid pac

ther is a small hole under pump snout . water will flow out here if the pump fails