1993 Chrysler Lebaron - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi kalalika,

Your starter should not have worn out in a year. So let's check other possibilities.

That clicking you hear is likely the solenoid.

This is essentially an electrically activated switch (relay) that connects power to your starter. The starter draws a LOT of power, so much that it would fry a normal switch. When you turn your key to Start, it activated the solenoid and in a perfect world would spin your starter and start your engine.

When the solenoid is working properly, there is a single, click. You might never even hear it since it would coincide with the engine turning over.

Multiple clicks occur when the starter draws more power than is available. Then there is not enough to keep the solenoid activated and it shuts off. Now that the starter isn't drawing power, the solenoid activates again, you hear another Click. The cycle repeats.

Causes:
Take care when working under the hood. Don't allow anything metallic to short them battery terminals. Wear safety glasses. Be safe.

Cable connections. Make sure your battery posts and terminals are clean and tight. Take them off, clean and reseat them. This one is like chicken soup for a cold, it can't hurt, it can only help.
If your car starts at this point, you're done. congratulations.

Low battery. Is your battery fully charged? If you can get a jump, do so.
If your car starts at this point, don't send your friend home yet. The battery was low, but how did it get that way? Take the cables off and run it for a while. Turn it off and try to restart it. If it starts, chances are you're fine. If not, check the belts. Are they tight? Missing? Frayed? If they are ok, you probably need to replace your battery.

Let me know how it turns out. I'm confident that one or the other of these is the cause of your problem. We can take it from there if these suggestions don't get you back on the road.

Good luck
Mike

no Not all ways true I changed the Oil sending unit on My 1993 Chrysler lebaron convertible 3.0 Now it is still Leaking and it is not the oil filter the leak is above the oil filter. some where it is not from the engine block area !!! I replace valve cover Gaskets . and Oil sending unit. thank u . still coming from above the Filter and it is not th e filer.......

First check for air in the system and if ok back flush the heater core as it could be blocked.

You mentioned the relays, this is leading me to think it is a wiring, voltage, ground issue, or pump problem. These are usually pretty simple fixes if you can use a multi meter.
Check voltage at the pump with ignition switch turned on, should have 12 volts at pump. Yes ? Pump won't go? Remove pump and I hook it up directly to 12v. Be careful of battery spark and gas!!! Pump still won't go? Need a pump... pump goes??? Check ground, then work back to fuel relays. If you had voltage at pump relays are ok unless you got a bad one or something weird. Is there a inertia switch or fuel cut off? How's your filter? Did you check for fuel pressure at fuel rail? I have rarely seen a brain box fail in this area. And usually it doesn't effect the relays first, it just causes failure not relays issues. If relays are failing and you have correct voltage(12volts), check grounds are clean and good connections. Checked the fuses already correct? We should have started here. Check these things and if no progress give me any more info that would help and we can figure something out

Sounds like the booster is defective.

This is a common problem with this vintage Chrysler gauge cluster. To DIY repair yourself... it's easy, don;t worry: You need a low watt soldering iron... 25-35 watt. Do NOT use a high powered soldering gun or you will ruin the electronics!!! Remove the gauge cluster from the instrument panel. There will be several philips head screws you will need to take out. Be gentle on the plastic as it become brittle with age! After you get the entire cluster out... you will note it has one or perhaps 2 electrical connectors on the back side. Carefully disconnect those. Take the gauge cluster to the place where you'll be soldering and have some small screwdrivers to remove the circuit board from the gauge housing. Hold the circuit board by the edges. On the front side on the board, locate the corresponding soldering pins to the main connector in the center of the gauge assembly. Heat up your soldering iron and touch to the iron to each pin connection on the front side of the circuit board to reflow the solder. (DO NOT TRY TO DO this from the plastic connector side on the gauge assembly, as you will melt the plastic connector ruining it. and it may not melt the solder all the way through to the connection on the front side (inside the gauge). Reinstall the gauge and it will work fine for you.

This sounds like you have a defective switch to me. But make sure because it is not a returnable part. If the switch doesn't cure the problem you must replace the entire seat track assembly, they do not service parts for it. You can buy the switch at www.rockauto.com for about $70.00 including shipping.

Take your pick https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=repair+front+disc+brakes

usually the diagram would be located in the owners manual. try looking there.

check the firing order of the plug wires.

Are you saying the shifter is no longer connected to the transmission ? You may be able to move the shifter into drive, then manually move the shift lever on the transmission to drive. Just make sure the parking brake is set on first.

To remove the serpentine belt from the 3.3L and 3.8L engines, rotate the tensioner assembly clockwise

there is a lever by the door.

You definitely need to get those electrical issues figured out. Computers don't like ground issues or low voltage and either one could be causing you grief.

Hi Cecilia, I'm glad to help! Cecilia, If you plan to drive the vehicle for years to come and the belt has never been changed before, then I suggest changing it as well as all the pulley's and the belt tensioner. I see you live in the St Charles Area if you need help with this call me Al 314-374-5218 hope this helps and have an awesome day Cecilia.

this plug was installed in place of a frost/freeze plug. you will have to find where on the engine it came from and install a proper plug then refill the cooling system with the proper ratio of water and anti-freeze.

could be spark plugs and wires has it had a recent tune-up it seems the older they get the more frequent the maintenance becomes

Hi Delaina, I'm glad to help! Freeze plugs are located in the engine block in various places. Along both sides of the block, some behind the starter, some behind the motor mounts. There are also freeze plugs in the front of the engine block and some engine also have them in the cylinder heads. There are also freeze plugs at the rear of the engine block behind the transmission. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Delaina!

engine?Cars?In engine block near pan ,near end of head sometime behind flywheel

The wiper motor is defective and needs to be replaced. Inside the wiper motor is a "Park Switch". When you turn the wipers off, the park switch sends a signal to shut the wipers off. If the park switch fails to operate then the wipers will continue to run, unless the ignition key is turned off. You will also need to inspect and test the charging system. Where you had no issue before the rain, you may only need to charge the battery. After the battery is charged it should be load tested, to be sure that it is fine. Also test the alternator and make sure that it is charging correctly (@14volts). If you need more information please write back. Good luck.