20 Most Recent 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager Questions & Answers

Code p1776 is solenoid switch valve latched in low/reverse position. Valve is located in valve body not solenoid body. The possibilities are:
the low/reverse pressure switch itself is bad
the transmission control relay output circuit is open
the control circuit (sense) of the l/r switch is open, shorted to ground or shorted to voltage.
The control relay's output is on pin #6 of the 8-pin plug of the transmission (red wire); you could verify that the wire has 12V on it when you are idling (and I guess I would put it in gear with the brakes applied). Also examine/shake the wire for intermittent connection possibility.
The solenoid sense circuit connects pin # 8 (light blue) to pin #50 of the transmission control module. You could check that connection and monitor it for voltage to fluctuate between 0V and some measurable V when the trans is shifting normally, and to loose that fluctuation when it is not, which would verify the circuit is OK.
If that proved to be OK, then I would suspect the switch isn't responding and needs to be changed.
The solenoid box is removable after you drop the pan and remove the valve body, and so it would not seem to be an horrendous expense (compared to a rebuild). I haven't done this myself so I can't comment on doing-it-yourself.
I would try to find a competent independent shop that know the Chrysler trans and discuss it with them as to the cost of replacing the l/r pressure switch as the alternative

The code p1784 is about the switch that monitors the hydraulic pressure for operating the low/reverse clutch of the transmission. That clutch is called into play for all forward gears as well as reverse, so it seems reasonable if that clutch were not working that the car wouldn't move in any gear. I would begin by making sure that there is sufficient trans fluid by inspecting its dipstick. If needed only use ATF +4 but don't overfill it. Also, just on a chance, take a look underneath to see if you see any motion of either the left or right half axles (or one moving, but one not) which would be another reason for no motion due to a drive shaft disconnection or some such anomaly. Other than that, your problem could be with the Low/Reverse solenoid switch in the solenoid pack portion of the transmission (the box on the driver's side of the trans) being stuck. That can be repaired without removing and rebuilding the transmission so let us hope that may be the cause. I would have the car towed to a good independent trans shop that has a reputation for knowing how to service the Chrysler electronic transmission.

DTC code p0700 is a transmission control system (mill light) which is related to the other two codes mentioned above.

Regardless of what vehicle you have, brake fluid should be changed about every two years because it will and does absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Water or moisture in your brake fluid will turn to steam under pressure (heat) as in repeated braking, braking going downhill, etc. You can't compress the steam as well as you can brake fluid, so replace it and avoid potential brake failure. It's an easy enough job to do yourself with a brake fluid replacement kit. There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to do it. Be sure and get a Hanes, or other owner's manual, or check with your auto parts store to find out the ORDER in which you bleed each brake. Most cars start with the front lines, then work around, but check to be sure what the order is for your particular make. If it hasn't been changed in awhile it will be dark. Keep adding and bleeding until the fluid runs clear. Here's a good YouTube video on how to bleed your brakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkmKGptc4rM Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/becky_74db42375768192e

If the key was off, the relay shouldn't have been doing anything. You have to crank it to get the asd relay to do anything, there needs to be rpm signal.You should have checked voltage and ground circuits for the relay before changing? The computer controls the ground for the control side of relay. Maybe the ground is shorting or something going on with computer? Any applicable trouble codes? Check the cam and crank sensor signals. Just my opinion.

Fuel pump is damaged, just replace the fuel pump located in the gas tank with a new one

Just because the lights go on does not always mean that the battery has enough power to engage the starter. The clicking noise could be the voltage regulator clicking. And since you disconnected the battery maybe there is not a great connection at the terminals. Were the terminals cleaned before the battery was reconnected? Curious ... what was the cause of the check engine light going on?

Check one of the breeders it may be loose or not put on properly.

If you go to autozones website you can make a free account and logon and put in the year make and model and then you can look for electrical in the free repair guides. If it is not there, a link should show up for ALLDATA. That site is not free though.

Check oil level. Make sure you're using the right weight oil. If those are good, you've either got a bad oil pressure sensor or pressure problems with the pump or worn engine bearings. Could be a sitcking pressure relief valve in the pump. But also could be a worn engine

so go change them. you may have to pull the lower cradle or lift the engine to change them. not an easy thing to do. the trany will be the easier one. when lifting understand the oil pans are not designed to be jacked and may break if you don't know what your doing. using an engine hoist and lift from secured lift points is required. you have the engine drop while you hands are going to get hurt. and you will have to remove parts to get to the bolts from the top and bottom and be able to remove the mounts.

Clunking going slow sounds like u joints bad in the driveshaft(s). Engine has idler pulley and air conditioning clutch bearings, alternator and power steering pumps have bearings, bearing in clutch on fan can go bad making noises at slower speed. Noises only while driving are drive train related. Try another mechanic's diagnosis.

Replace crankshaft sensor before torch it...

the main fuse box is usually under the hood,you may find a small fuse box under the dash as well.....hope this helps.....cheers