20 Most Recent 1995 Jeep Cherokee Questions & Answers

On the PCM are the connectors and all remote to it,. all sensors and actuators and power. (simple , all inputs and output to it)USA, LHD, = :Left hand drive. chapter 8D-5 in the OEM manual XJ jeep, (chickodee) POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) The PCM was formerly referred to as the SBEC or engine controller. On XJ models, the PCM is located in the engine compartment next to the air cleaner (Fig. 12).

Start with the basics, spark, fuel and air, take it from there

if you have a local library card you can access the Chilton's DATA Base for free.

I am assuming that you are replacing or reinstalling the distributor since my research shows that the timing is controlled by the control module unless the distributor has been removed. I am posting a youtube video shows how to reinstall the distributor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRHW0i3V6qM&ab_channel=DallasHunter You should open a free account at www.cherokeeforums.com. It is a very helpful site and I believe it is all free. Hope that helps

how do you reset the computer for 1995 jeep grand cherokee changed the starter yesterday now it only runs 10 seconds and dies some one said to reset conputer but i dont know how tried the internet no luck please anybody help thanks ken

yes should be able to

Vehicle will not start (I assume you mean won't "crank" / "turn-over") until wiggle gear in park or neutral - Replace the Neutral Safety Switch. First check terminal connection (plug)) if okay replace Neutral Safety Switch. The Neutral Safety Switch will not cause the vehicle to shut off while driving. To diagnose stalling - next time it stalls and doesn't start check for spark and fuel. With no check engine light or codes mentioned in your post also indicates it is a spark or fuel problem (ignition problem/not emission problem (the sensors)). Keep smiling.

What parts were replaced? I'll try to help.

This could be so many things. Bad battery connection, starter starting to go, fuel pump starting to go, relay/fuse broken. I would start with your battery and connections.

Basically, and most likely, a leak from a hose, over heating from a stuck thermostat, a leaking radiator, cooling fan not working properly, or a bad radiator cap not keeping proper pressure on system. I would have the system pressure tested for leaks. I would hesitate on driving it until issue is resolved.

Connect yellow to dark green.

all that an not one RPM stated, making the meter useless. numbers matter, tell them. all that can be condensed to idle controls, dead hot. you took it to a shop but was running great then. so he guessed, and spent a fortune doing nothing. why do that. ? take it in broken, or have them drive it for a day to work. find a real shop that can do that. and win., THE idle controls can fail many a way. 1: the control is bad. (ISC/IAC) they like to stick clean it. 2: vacuum leaks causing above. 3: gross engine misfiring (50 causes) 4: not scanning it. you didnt. so, work blind. next time post actual RPM, when missing up. and win, !!!! the PCM not stuck in LIMP-in mode, will work big time hard to prevent engines from stalling and to hold spec rpm 700? hot. the ECU modulates the ISC to hold 700 rpm , HOT, in neutral or DRIVE, if you go P N, D and P, the rpm must hold at spec, 700 if not the ECU is not regulating RPM is it. and not scanning it now, you may never lean why. scan cars failing, not working right., and win. lets say you said, just to show how important numbers are. RPM is 400 or 500 engine shakes. EGR stuck open( if it has one,) or engine gross misfiring ever get a full tuneup this decade, even spark plugs. OMG no>? injectors leaking or clogged at the 10min no start. does 5-10% throttle action (right foot) allow it to start now. NO, try wide open throttle starts. bingo, then its flooded if it floods, post , why does my engine flood. and get other answers like a tuneup.,

idle air control valve, maybe.

The torq- converter is probably OK. Try Dropping the pan on the bottom of the trans (Careful for fluid, no drain plug ). Check for debris in the bottom of pan (More than a spoonful indicates, Bad clutch pack ). Try installing a new filter and Install clean pan With 1 quart of Lucas trans conditioner poured in the pan before installing. Top the Trans with Ford Type-F fluid. Add about 4 quarts of the F before cranking, then add to correct level on the dipstick while running in neutral ,Apply hand brake for safety. Make sure coolant level is correct in radiator( it cools the trans). Mail serv. requires daily check of fluids. Good Luck. The Ford type-f Fluid has a higher temp. Rating than mercon or dextron.

You tube !

Here is a link to the wiring diagram, follow it to find the problem. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/spooge031/2012-07-29_223517_41860228.gif