20 Most Recent 1997 Honda CR-V - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I had that same problem a while ago. I changed the coil and the ignition and I have had no problems since. Give that a try and see if it works. I have a 1997 honda crv myself and it seemed to work.

Jim, this may be something I call VaporBlock: Try several things: When you've started the car (in the morning) let it idle (or drive it around the block a couple of times or so -- to get it warmed up -- I mean HOT) then turn if OFF; and, wait 10 minutes - then try to start it... IF it starts after the first 10 minute; then, it is NOT VaporBlock, and you'll need to drive it to a mechanic. I this doesn't start, wait 30 (additional) minutes - then try to start it... IF it doesn't start the after the first 10 minutes or 30 minutes; then, you may have to wait and hour -- and try it again, because you have VaporBlock. You will have to find the "sweet-spot" of time to wait before trying to start it, or take it to a mechanic to get this issued fixed. I used to pack my carburettor with snow to cool it down when I really needed it start again in a hurry! I do hope this helps... Topbarhive

Could be a loose belt, bad tensioner, wrong belt?, bad pulley.

first thing take the 120 amp fuse out and throw it away the 100 amp fuse was installed originally to protect the wiring and other related parts next by connecting to the wrong terminals there is a power surge that can damage the electronics in the ECM unit and alternator removing a battery for a charge can corrupt the immobiliser system I would suggest that you use a scanner to read any fault codes that may be stopping the engine and then reset the CPU program in the ECM to reset the immobiliser

could have damaged the crank sensor. i want to say its behind the crank pulley

Where can i find the OBD port of my 99 honda hrv?

Most likely wire inside steering column has rubbed a bare spot and is shorting. Short term fix is disconnect horns. Might check horn relay first by tapping with broom handle of such.

THE 97 HONDA CRV DIAGNOSTIC HOOKUP IS UNDER LOWER CENTER CONSOLE,UNDER PLASTIC COVER,RIGHT SIDE CENTER.IT'S LIKE AN INCH OR TWO OFF THE FLOOR.I HAVE SAME VEHICLE.

Bad fuel filter? Loose timing belt? Check the timing belt first. You don't want to junk the motor by jumping timing and smashing the valves.

Check the idle air control valve. If not also check any misfire on one of the spark plugs.

Spent ages trying to find a helpful answer - worked it out myself ....... The interior fusebox is behind the coin box ...drivers side ....
Hope this saves someone else alot of time

Watch the You Tube Video

Need a little more information on this. What did you do for your tune-up?

You should be able to ... but i'm guessing you've already handled this by now.

That vehicle should have a timing belt that should be changed ever 100000Km if it hase not been replaced now would be a good time to do so but i dont think its the cause of the problem. First replace all the filters and plugs and make sure the plugs you use have the right heat range. If still no improvment check the HT leads resistance. If that is all ok get the injectors serviced.

hi most likely u r driver side door latch has corrosion if u open up the door panel u cold access it if u spar wd 40 every where on the latch it should free up the linkage rod for lock/unlock u have to let it sit 20 /30 min the try to move the rod for locking should work if not the latch has to be replaced danny

hi i would try fuel injector cleaner product u add when u put gas if injector problem it will solve it if not its carbon build up on throttle body air fuel mixture is an issue also look into maf sensor mass air flow is there a check engine on if so could send u in proper direction gasing up a tank of premium super 91 octane and up will help clean out minor issues danny

Try replacing the fuel pump relay. It is possible that the relay stayed latched on keeping the pump running constantly.