2004 Suzuki Grand Vitara - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

can only be 3 things.1: bad engine.2: bad spark3: bad fueling (in that order) and too rich or too lean.there is a test for each one that takes about 1hours work.

double post.now bank1 added.your source of info is faulty. you are looking at others cars , assuming its like yours, its not.post county car resides (smog rules) and where car was sold. where it was sold dictates which EFI system your car uses.The VIN will tell you this. post this critical information. and answers get better.

on CO cars, it's below the ECU/PCM but if you have lambda's, then its not a CO car.CO cars are missing 02 sensors.and you said, Sensors, as Plural. got 2?you failed to post where car is and where it was sold new.Or VIN. Engine controls vary by country. this car may be OEBD type ECU/PCM , "use a scan tool"and if motor is rich , that can be for 2 reasons.ENGine is richCatalysis dead, or both.and CO is not HC.but high CO usually does, give you high CO.

pump working , just because it make noise, doent make it good.1 clogged or damage pump impeller. (pump may have tank screen, it too must not be dirty)2: clogged line.3: clogged in line check valve. (tiny) usually found close to pump. within 1 foot or so. most cars.4: clogged jets, if both fail , see above. rear has 1 so.... clean it.you can test the pump attach a new line to just pump, turn it onand see if it squirts, good, and hold finger over end, does it have good pressure? yes, then it is good. sound be darn.if pump good, fix the line clogs.easy stuff here.using air pressure (shop air) at pump end of hose, see if you can flow air end to end. yes?

Sounds like the ignition interlock at the transmission switch is out of adjustment or faulty. Bypass the key switch, at the starter, if it now cranks, it's in the interlock switch or the ignition switch.

She is hooch, Trade her in on a new model,

Here is a video o fthe marks.

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-d260_ds446747

Hi there:P0403 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit MalfunctionThe Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system is controlled by a vacuum solenoid. The solenoid is supplied ignition voltage. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the vacuum solenoid by grounding the control circuit(ground) or driver. The primary function of the driver is to supply ground for the object that is being controlled. Each driver has a fault circuit that the PCM monitors. When the PCM turns a component on, the control circuit voltage is low, or close to zero. When the component is turned off, the voltage on the control circuit is high, or near battery voltage. The PCM watches for these conditions, and if it doesn\'t see the proper voltage at the proper time, this code is set.Potential Symptoms

Usually a fault in the control circuit, will leave no noticeable symptoms other than the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination. However, if the EGR control solenoid is stuck open due to debris, etc. the code may be accompanied by misfire under acceleration, rough idle, or engine dying altogether.

Causes

The causes for a P0403 EGR code could be any of the following:

• Bad EGR solenoid
• Excessive resistance in control circuit (PCM controlled ground) due to an open, chafing or damage to the harness
• Poor connection at the EGR solenoid harness (worn or loose pins)
• Water intrusion at the EGR solenoid harness
• Blockage in EGR control solenoid holding solenoid open or closed causing excessive resistance
• Loss of supply voltage to EGR solenoid
• Bad PCM

Possible Solutions

With the ignition on and engine off, use a scan tool to activate the EGR solenoid. Listen or feel for a clicking, indicating that the solenoid is operating.

If the solenoid does operate, you'll have to check current draw on the ground circuit. It should be less than one amp. If it is then the problem is intermittent. If it isn't then there is excessive resistance in the circuit and perform the following

1. When it's activated see if you can blow lightly through it. IF you can\'t there may be a blockage causing excessive resistance. Replace EGR solenoid as needed. If there is no blockage, disconnect the EGR solenoid and the PCM connector containing the EGR solenoid control circuit. Using a digital Volt-Ohm meter (DVOM) check resistence between the control circuit and battery ground. It should be infinite. If it isn't, then there is a short to ground on the control circuit. Repair the short to ground and retest as needed.

2. If the solenoid doesn't click as it should, disconnect the EGR solenoid connector and connect a test light between the two wires. Using the scan tool, command the EGR solenoid on. The light should light up. If it does, replace the EGR solenoid. If it does not perform the following: a. Check for 12 Volts on the ignition supply voltage to the solenoid. If it isn't present, inspect the supply circuit for an open, or a short due to chafing or breakage and re-test. b. If it still doesn't operate: then manually ground the EGR solenoid control circuit. The light should light. If it does, repair open in EGR solenoid control circuit and re-test. If it doesn't, replace EGR solenoid.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Any Auto parts store can look this up for you.

hiya found a online manual for you to download and print http://www.esnips.com/profile.php?uid=389377hope this helpsJohn

Sounds like a front driver side strut has gone out. I recommend that if you change one go ahead and change then both because if one goes out the other isn't long behind it.

First check your fuses and relays for the fan. Next, you can run 12V directly from the battery to the fan, if it operates, you can eliminate a bad fan as a possibility of the cause and then test the fan's thermostat switch. If the radiator is sufficiently corroded it will also cause the symptoms you describe since part of the cooling surfaces will be effectively blocked off. The chance that the water pump is causing the problem is very slim. You can verify the pumps operation by starting the engine with the radiator cap off and allowing it to get up to operating temperature. When it's at operating temperature, you should see the coolant flowing through the radiator; it's the water pump that causes the flow through the radiator. If you see the coolant flowing, your pump should be fine.

Thermostat!

Hi.

I have uploaded the relevant section from service documentation. Please click on the picture below. Once the page opens you may need to click again to enlarge the picture.

The file can be printed.



Regards.

Ginko

hi.
freon capacity on 2004 grand vitara is 450g +/- 50g

PO 134 = 02 SENSOR CIRCUIT NO ACTIVITY DETECTED (BANK 1 SENSOR1)
PO 153 =02 SENSOR CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE (BANK 2 SENSOR 1)
PO 154 =02 SENSOR CIRCUIT NO ACTIVITY DETECTED (BANK 2 SENSOR 1)
PO 155= 02 SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (BANK 2 SENSOR 1)
PO 171= SYSTEM TOO LEAN (BANK 1)
PO 174= SYSTEM TOO LEAN (BANK 2)
I WOULD SAY YOU HAVE FAULTY OXYGEN SENSORS CAUSING THE ENGINE TO RUN TOO LEAN REPLACE THEM AND YOU SHOULD BE BACK IN BUISNESS

It is a belt! check the water pump yourself. Look for leaks, there is a drain hole at the bottom of the pump and if there is any sign of water there the seal is leaking. Try move the pump pulley around to check for wear in the bearings and listen for strange noises - take a long screwdriver, place the end of the blade on the pump and put you rae to the handle, this will work like a stethoscope and relay any noises in the pump to your ear.

you may have a simple issue with power to the receiver unit, if this is an aftermarket one it is usualy installed under the dash above your left leg. Check for any burnt fuses too.

see my post here for troubleshooting tips: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5929960-s_thermostat
Let me know if you have questions