2000 Subaru Impreza - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It is bad and the clutch assembly will need to be replaced and the flywheel machined smooth if possible, a huge job requiring special tools and a high skill level. If you do have the tools and you think you have the skill let me know.

on left hand side on top of crank case near bell housing.

I would make sure your fuel filter is clean and have your catalytic converter checked to make sure it is not clogged up.

Check gas filter/gas cap seals

it may require a big bit of bluff here but it is generally accepted that all bolts under tension are replaced as a matter of course . Workshop manuals all say that big end bolts, main bolts, crank shaft pulley bolt, cam shaft bolts and head studs all should be replaced to avoid problems after reassembly. It amounts to wether the mechanic is professional and well trained or not . The shop / mechanic should have a parts and labour warranty for at least 30 days to cover this problem. Talk nicely but firmly and maybe you can come to an agreement. Check for local /state law on your entitlements before starting the discussion.. You could be surprised at where you stand

check the reason for the engine light coming on as it is serious and not to be ignored. Run fault codes.

This is almost always a failed heater circuit in the O2 sensor. Replace the sensor, clear the code. If the code comes back, we'll know it has a vehicle wiring problem. It is helpful to know that this sensor performs no important function. You could cut it from the vehicle and it would not effect performance or operation in any way at all. This sensor is only there to determine if the catalyst is work and doesn't affect engine operation. The sensor only operates when hot and since it takes longer to heat up on its' own, it has an electrical heater to help it operate faster. It is one of those things that you have to determine if the expense of repair is worth not looking at the 'check engine' light since it has no bearing on the safe operation of the vehicle.

The abs system is not currently working and will not engage if you push on the brake abruptly. Resetting the light will resume the ABS function.

I would first inspect/test the power and ground connections for the starter at both ends. Then try to find out if any wiring got damaged in the front end. There is a harness that runs across the lower rad support

the screaching noise is 1 of your belts needs to be tightened. noise from the right front tire sounds like a bad sturt or ball joint and that needs to looked at

there is a code table hope it can help you and good luck

This is a common problem on many vehicles especially four wheel drive. I would check the level and condition of the rear end differential fluid or lube. It is probably either low or burned. More likely low.

Yes low fluid level can cause loss of hydraulic pressure in the transmission and that makes for no engagement, but the level must be really low, it would not show on the dipstick or at the fill point if you checked it.

Could be a number of things that are the cause, but it's probably not either getting "fuel or fire". Fuel means gasoline and it could be the fuel pump, injectors clogged. Fire means the spark plugs are not getting electricity. This could be a loose coil wire or electronic control module (ECM) that acts like the coil and helps to generate the proper electricity to each spark plug. If you're not mechanically inclined, or aren't up for learning all about it through "trial and error" you might be best having it towed to a mechanic. But, if you're the adventurous type and don't need immediate transportation, Haynes manuals (www.haynes.com) are a great way to start learning all about automotive mechanics.

The information below was complied by me, it explains what causes the check engine light to come on and the process of finding the cause.When the Check Engine light (or Service Engine Soon or small picture of an engine) is turned on, the systems computer control unit (called the PCM) has sensed a fault in the electronic controls of the engine and/or the emission system. When this happens you will seldom feel the car engine run any different. There are about 200 possible system faults (the gas cap is just one of them) that turn the Check Engine light on, to know what has developed a problem you must have the system tested, this is called an OBD2 fault code test, Kragen/Oriley and Autozone parts stores (USA only) do this testing for free.

have you checked your fuses under the hood

if the pulley wheel isn't driving anything it's likely the tensioner. if it has a reservoir it's likely power steering. a pulley driving something inside a "cover" would be water pump and the largest pulley would be your crankshaft pulley (at the bottom of the motor). have a look at the pulley for the water pump. if water is seeping out of the front of the pump it's time to replace it. the last time a belt shredded on my vehicle it was a seized tensioner (it was squealing first)

start by disconnecting the battery then remove dashboard and locate the main wire cluster. from there start by marking all clips followed by disconnecting all clips. then go around to the engine bay and locate and mark all of the clips and pull the harness through the firewall towards the cabin.

common problem with rear wheel bearing unfortunately its not a doit yourself job you need a press and hoist

you have to check the accelerator linkage,