1993 Jeep Wrangler - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Put your road wheels in the straight ahead position. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. It'll disable the air bag if one is fitted. Unscrew the centre boss through the holes on the back of the steering wheel. **NOTE** Air bags are sensitive and explosive so BE CAREFUL!! Gently disconnect the wires to the back of the centre boss and put it somewhere where it won't get dropped or kicked by accident. Disconnect the wires to the steering wheel controls. Loosen the bolt in the centre of the wheel. DON'T remove it all the way! Leave it in 2 or 3 turns. You can either use a two armed puller to free it or hit it from behind with a rubber hammer. Leaving the bolt in will stop it hitting you in the face when it comes loose.

Just a guess: wiring harness.

nothing wrong with the ECM unless it has the voltage regulator as part of the system indicates faulty wiring and faulty alternator have a load test done on the battery have an auto electrician do a full charging system check charging voltage should be 14.5-14.8 volts DC battery voltage should be 12-13.5 volts dropping to 11 volts when cranking the engine make sure that the drive belt tension is correct and the belt is in good condition

check you manual, fuse box cover and clean the contacts on the fuse box and where it plugs in

First look at fuel pressure pump jam

the ENGINE BLOCK, front, and rear. only. (cept the gaping hole with oil filter off ,the filter acts as a plug too)cam gears off.and flywheel off.only.posted over 300 time.the book , free, ,realclick YJclick ENIgne.http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookup.aspx?url2=1993+JEEP+WRANGLER+S

the fsm covers this. (fact.serv. man) ill paste the words, the book is free. to read. booster out steps are there in chapter BRAKES http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service chapter 5 page 22 quote POWER BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVAL (1) Loosen but do not remove nuts attaching master cylinder to booster (Fig. 3). (2) Remove instrument panel lower trim cover. (3) Remove retaining clip attaching booster push rod to brake pedal (Fig. 4). (4) Remove bolts/nuts attaching booster to dash panel. (5) In engine compartment, loosen vacuum hose clamp and disconnect vacuum hose from booster check valve (Fig. 5). (6) Remove master cylinder attaching nuts and remove cylinder from mounting studs on booster (7) Carefully move master cylinder aside and remove booster. end the clip is here. the book is free, to read, and posted over 100 times now...

that ax-15 , behind cummin's. 3.9L , 50 lbs more torque, there, may be ok. when buying custom mod. cars this is all normal. 1: nobody can fix your car, due to its not stock. 2: get stranded on the road, far from home and nobody will wont to touch it.. 3: finding out just what the hacker did to make it work, now that takes alive human to do that... for sure. hacker=modder=custom jeep. you may need to go to jeep.com and look at every front pinon shaft ever used on the ax-15 my guess just 1. it's too short because you have 3.9L cummins to Ax-15 adapter there, and the mod guy, just ignored this.??? no photos presented by you. my guess, (wild) is it's this? http://www.jdjeeps.com/jdjeeps/adapters.ashx we are blind here can;t see all those custom parts not hardly if you look there it has recessed plate to make the distance match. and mounts match. and has a custom collar for the throwout to slide on. all custom parts. and many suppliers. unknown yours.

Sounds like a spark plug or distributor problem.... Change out all your spark plugs and check your wires for breaks. Check fuel injectors for build-up.

according to that jeep guy's youtube, yea

whoever rebuit it has got the shifter interlock wrong or syncro rings/springs in wrong

usually ATF oil,fill to plug level

you will need a scan toool to see if the ECU is recieving a signal fron speed sensor,if it is mechanical the cable or drive has failed

if it's a concentric slave cylender ther should be a second hose coming out of bellhousing with a bleeder on it,if not look for slave cyl on side or top of bellhousing

unscrew the plastic fasia around dash abd remove,then unscrew speedo

lots of screws to get this one out

In the fuse box under the hood near the battery.

Get yourself a wiring diagram for that

check heater conrol valve under hood if in heater position check the vacuum hoses in dash or the switch that changes the door position