20 Most Recent 1988 Jeep Wrangler - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Yes. Don't lift it in the first place. Your lift components are not correct for your application. Your getting the pulling, because the steering linkage/arms are wrong or wrongly installed. A good 4x4 shop, which I recall stopped existing 20 years ago or a frontend specialist ,if they will even touch it, could help. As your veh lifts on acceleration,the steering is out of travel,so to speak.

when you do that you are bypassing the starter relay witch is on the fender well under the hood about 1.5 inch round and 2 inches long assuming you have all the wires hooked up to the starter double check work and then find the relay and jump it and see if it starts if so your done if not check wires for crossion or a break in the positive wire or wires some where good luck

A mechanical pump pulls fuel from the tank and pressurizes it on the carb side. This makes any small rust holes in the fuel line nearly impossible to find (with injection the line from the tank is pressurized and any hole no matter how small will spray....a mechanical pump will draw air into the hole instead. You can check it for leaks by removing the end at the tank and blocking it off, then disconnecting it from the pump and attaching a flowing siphon hose to it. any leaks will then drip.
The fuel pickup in the tank has a fine mesh screen on it. You can either blow it off the end of the pickup tube by applying high pressure air to the line while it's disconnected from the pump, or by dropping the tank and cleaning it. As long as you are using a good filter on the line it won't hurt anything but if it does work you can consider removing the tank and cleaning it.
Your fuel pressure should be between 5 and 7psi. Good idea to run some of your fuel into a clear glass jar and check it for water.
Have you checked the intake gasket for leaks? While running, spray carb cleaner where the manifold and head join. If the idle changes substantially, you have a leak. I'd also check actual engine vacuum...you should have about 19 inches of vacuum at idle.
Last, your timing chain may also be worn. At times the chain will ride up on the cam gear and alter the cam timing. I would definitely keep that for last but keep it in mind anyway.
If combustion is good in all cylinders your plugs should be coffee coloured on the electrode porcelan. Black, or oil fouled is not good.
White is questionable but as long as they aren't blistered they should be ok like that. Last thought is that rebuilt carbs are not always done up right...building is becoming a lost art. Though yours is simple it still needs to be set up correctly or it may not work.

Yes it could be debres in the tank- it could also be a dying fuel pump or a combination of both

It wont get better either and in fact could start breaking stuff inside the steering column if it doesn't get fixed. Inside the steering column there are some bolts that hold the tilt parts together. These loose bolts or nuts need tightened up with some locktite. Trying to get to them is a pain and can require some special tools. This is one of those items where it is easier to take it to a mechanic that already has the tools. Said mechanic could probably do the job in less then an hour.

80 foot lbs

check power to pump?

maybe its just the indicator thats not lighting up

1st get alternator tested. if good iddle air control valve is sticking closed

Hello, I believe I can help you with this problem. The oil in the air cleaner is "blow-by" from the piston rings. This is a common problem on your engine. There are 2 breathers built into your valve cover, the rearward one is the PCV valve and is most likely clogged up causing the front causing the crankcase pressure to go through the front breather and on into your air filter. Chrysler sells the parts you need as a kit, with the grommets for the valve cover and the vacuum hoses to refresh your system. You will need to remove the valve cover and clean the inside of it, then replace the grommets and hoses to the air cleaner. If this doesn't work you might need to replace the entire valve cover assembly. This is most likely causing your performance issues also. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask for more information, I'll be glad to help.

sounds like your ECM might be bad. Is there anything else that will turn on besides the lights? It could just be a main fuse. I'd start at the interior fuses if any and then go to the main fuse block and check for any loose wires or blown fuses first.

If you have the 4.2 where the air filter is on top of the valve cover and the snorkel of the metal frame goes to the carb,there is a bracket that has 4 bolts. two bolts that go into the top of the valve cover and two into the side bolts of the valve cover on the passenger side. l

I would say its not bad fuel, it would not start on bad fuel. I would be looking at a fuel block somewhere most likley in the carb sys.

do you carry a lot of trinkets to weight it down enough to cause it to retract into the off position otherwise i am thinking the ignition needs replacement due to wear and everyday use parts do wear out

Was there any water in the tank? Has anyone changed the fuel filter? Has anyone checked the ceramic ballast resistor on the drivers fender near the master cylinder?
Has anyone checked the crank sensor output? Did anyone see if it will run if you spray carb cleaner into the throttle body after starting? Are there pulses present at injector? You need to verify these things to get some idea what is going on there.

yeah, there's nothing really wrong with them, just bad sensors or wiring, believe me I had the same problem, no need to worry.

Any good quality name brand 10w/30 or 20w/40 oil will be fine in your engine. Even in an engine that old, I use a good synthetic. Generally they give better protection and thermal stability than conventional oil as well as having a longer life-span. (google: noyac volatility tests) for good information on this. The only time I would refrain from using a synthetic is if the engine has a bad oil leak. Synthetics are expensive and if it is leaking out, it can cost too much to keep it topped off. If your engine is relatively leak free, a good synthetic can actually reduce your oil consumption as most tend to soften age hardened seals and will also dissolve carbon deposits in the piston ring-lands, freeing binding rings.
One thing to keep in mind is that you need to pay attention to the micron rating of the filter you use. (smaller is better). Regardless of oil type, contamination due to poor filtration can turn any lubricant into "liquid sandpaper" on a microscopic level.
Good luck!!

Have the choke setting on your carb checked. if its fuel injected model---have the air and temperature sensors checked out
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

check PCV most likely clogged or hose or vaccum port clogged