Top 20 2001 Jeep Wrangler - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I am assuming you have DRL (daytime running lights)?

the primary fuse for the DRL is fuse #11
however, the running lights are controled by this module

this should help...

no, there's a cam in the turn signal switch which keep the signal work until you turn the wheel to cancel, evidently that cam is broken.

if the light was off when you bought it, then came on shortly after, the dealer turned the light off without fixing the problem. how long after you bought it did the light come on? did you get gas shortly before the light came on? the cap may be loose. in order to determine the fault, you'll have to have the code read. autozone does it for free.

Once you remove the starter mounting bolts and wires from the solenoid, the starter should pull right out and allow you to drop it down.
If you have a 3.7 it will take some more dis-assembly, but you have a 4 cylinder.

2.5L engine. 1 3 4 2 Number 1 should be approx 5 o'clock position, the order goes clockwise.

You have to drain your entire cooling system then take a punch and hammer and knock the plug sideways, then get pliers and pull it out and punch new one in place after the surface is clean. If it is the engine block frost plug you are refering to

Seating area, driver side, to the upper steering column housing at the top of the steering column, behind the multi-function switch

That subject is too large to cover in this forum. If you are mechanically inclined then I suggest you purchase a workshop manual. If not leave it to the experts.

try cleaning your battery connections. my jeep will occationally do this and i have to remove and clean the battery connections.

Chrysler ATF+4

Check for vaccum leaks in the engine compartment. you will hear a hissing sound if there's a leak on one of the hoses.

sounds like you have a freon leak. you will need to have someone put dye in the system and then run it and see if they can find it leaking.

you have a faulty thermostat in your jeep. the thermostat is on the engine where the top cooling hose attaches to the motor. it will look like a small valve type thing with a spring that holds the brass part against the steel. if you are replacing this yourself than you will want a 195 thermostat.

I am assuming you are talking about the radiator fan

if so, then do not worry about the on time for the fan unless the engine is over heating

if however, you are talking about the blower motor fan then the concern is probably in the relay located in the harness near the HVAC case

The driver in the computer may have fried. This means PCM (powertrain control module)replacment. First check #26 20A fuse and the automatic shutdown relay in the power distribution center.

check the blower motor resister,that is where the fan speeds come from

rear main seal need to remove trans to replace

Generally just driving through several cycles will permit the computer to re-set itself. If not, try disconnecting the battery for a minute. (you also will need to re-set security system if you do that)

You have to change the resistor, it's located in the blower housing under the dash. It looks like a plug with 2 or 3 little screws holding it in, it has different lengths of wire inside it that creates your different speeds

If the u- joints are loose, yes, that would cause the front end to shake.