2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction

If your Jeep is overheating and the coolant reservoir is bubbling, it could indicate that there is an issue with the cooling system. Here are a few possible causes:

1. The radiator cap is faulty: The radiator cap is responsible for maintaining the proper pressure in the cooling system. If it is not functioning properly, it could cause the coolant to boil and create bubbles in the reservoir.
2. The water pump is not working: The water pump circulates the coolant throughout the engine. If it is not working properly, the coolant may not be circulating as it should, which could cause the engine to overheat.
3. The thermostat is stuck: The thermostat is responsible for regulating the flow of coolant into the engine. If it is stuck in the closed position, it could restrict the flow of coolant and cause the engine to overheat.
4. There is a leak in the cooling system: If there is a leak in the cooling system, the coolant level in the reservoir may be low, which could cause the engine to overheat.

It is important to address any issues with the cooling system as soon as possible, as an overheating engine can cause serious damage. You may want to take your Jeep to a mechanic for further diagnosis and repair.

for sure all generic answers here are wrong. for all grand Cherokees. 93 to 2010 posters jeep is 2001 WJ , only WJ 1999- to 2004 (USA only) are correct. RHD cars are not the same. UK we all know why, (clogs happen evap drain clogged) we all know it must be cleaned. (just like clogged kitchen drain )_ what is not told , "your hands can not reach the spot. transmission block you, and CATs) the drain tube on my 2008 wrangler(2dr) is in plane site just above starter. so is easy the wJ and WK jeeps are not easy, and WK is the hardest of all made. blocking shield under car.(above right side of transmission NAG1. THE FSM LIEs IS HERE. Jeep sells the cleaner kit and the TSB covers how in 24 long pages. but step 1 below fails; (way to go JEEP,. FCA) #2 is CAT crossover,3.7L

If the coolest was low it is going somewhere. If you filled the radiator and immediately heard tapping it could be coolent hitting fan or even a blown headmaster. It is possible the coolent and tapping aren't related at all and your oil is low.

4wd or NOT, 2wd, but 4wd both ends match. well , not wanting to pulled cover off and have GL5 lube all over or #2 googling for all Jeep axle codes. (your call) there is no CHEVY RPO code build list\ #3you call jeep dealer give VIN and he tells build list to you. or the tests. #4 put car in 2wd, but one rear tire on ICE or wet grass then move forward quick. (gas pedal if both tires spin car moves is Positration clutch packed rear gear set.(or lockers of many kinds) if limited slip 4 gears only then one tire on grass /ice only spins fast and car does not. there answered all 4 ways. ok way #5, rear tires off ground both, ON JACKS STAnds safe. in neutral 4wd box or. if not 4wd tranny in neutral. hand spin 1 tire and both turn same direction for locker. if it 1 spins backwards the axle is open (limited slip) open is 4 gears (side+ spider) Lockers have a locker or clutch pack just like seen in the A./T BOX. lockers have vast names. but all lock up some way. open axles means sans/locks. I love lockers. saved my bacon vast times. even pulling super heavy boats out of the ramp, and zero slip. 2 tires spin is JOY. even 2wd drive with a locker is a joy. on snow and ice too. 1 wheel drive is for squids.

WJ jeep USA. fuse blown or caused by trailer wiring rear, hitch, all mangled common or past collision damged front park lamps dead to or side lamps park dead/?????????????? only takes eyeball to see that. or scan the PCM it will tell you why. the service manual has the schematics for all that, brakes + tail/park but blinks ok? beside bad wiring, (I have A reAL WJ MANUALS ALL) THE FUSE 6 IS BLOW OR OFF F6 THE RELAY PARK IS BAD. THE BCM BRAIN RUNS THE PARK RELAY TOTALY SO BCM FUSES MUST NOT BLOWN, Just test all fuses. ? BCM fuses are F7, f22, and f28, not blown./ the BCM must communicate on the network or fails PCI bus is Jeeps name if anything trashes this bus vast things fail. if BCM is dead vast things fail over 25, and endless seeming list not told you what does work? (telling only bad things only makes the job 10 x more hard. scan and it tells you what is dead in 5min work. on most cars./.

Question edited for clarity. Please don't use abbreviations, and please put 'year make model' as the first three works. The other benefit is that the site scripting will put you in the correct model category. I moved it for you. :>D This noise is likely to be the Universal Joints on the drive shafts. They are covered in rubber boots, the boots split and that lets in water and road grit which in time causes wear. Take it in for diagnostics.

Your dealership is spinning you a year to get you to pay for a new transmission. Tell you husband to get back underneath and look for pulled or damaged wires from the bumper job. Or call a transmission specialist. This is an electrical fault.

https://www.fixya.com/cars/t17405055-2002_jeep_grand_cherokee_limited_4_7

Hey There...I am not a Mechanic and cannot answer all your questions, but I did not see in your statement where you disabled or removed the skim (Sentry key immobilizer module) prior to installing the new PCM. Even if you have the Skim de-programmed in the PCM, you must unplug or preferably remove the skim or it will immediately reset the PCM when you connect it to the car. The skim is the module under the steering column with the little halo that that goes around the ignition. If you did not disable the skim you will have to have the PCM deprogrammed again. If none of this helps, I apologize. I am just learning about all this myself.

With my '02 it is on the passenger side, more or less under the battery. I found it fairly easy to get to from under the car when I changed mine out.

skdavisbob, This sounds like you have a problem with the brake booster that is attached to the firewall. When these boosters fail it is like trying to stop a house as you describe here. There is a one way check valve near the top of the booster that uses vacuum from the engine to operate. Inspect the hose and be sure that it is attached at both ends and that there are no leaks in this hose. This can be done by running the engine and listening for a leak. (hissing noise) Replace the hose if faulty. If you don't hear any vacuum leak then turn the engine off and pull the check valve out of the booster. This takes a little effort as it is quite secure in the grommet. You should hear a vacuum leak for a split second because when the valve is removed it will allow air in (if it is working properly) and you should hear the leak. If you don't hear the hiss, then test the valve by blowing through it both ways. As stated, this is a one way valve and you should be able to blow air through one way but not the other. If you can blow air both ways then the check valve is faulty. If the hose and valve are working properly then you will have to have the booster replaced. Good luck with this.

Sounds like the same problem I had. I brought it to the Jeep dealer and they told me that the heating element in the seat stopped working. They told me that the only way to repair was to take the seat apart and replace the heating element in the seat. Of course they will charge you the standard $80 to tell you this. and then quote you $500 plus to repair. I can't even remember how much, I have decided it was not worth it.
Also this website could help you:
http://www.wjjeeps.com/seats/seats.htm

Wheel sensors are usually for ABS and traction control systems. Speedo is usually connected to transmission https://youtu.be/TWUqx0FrLtM

Check the wires that run through the door pillar they do break in time as door opened repeatedly .

Your catalytic converter is not doing it's job efficiently enough and it is setting off your sensor. This problem is emissions problem and usually has no effect on the operation of your vehicle( unless the converter clogs) As long as you don't live somewhere they do emissions test you don't really have to worry about it. However if you want to fix it you can take converter off and run a straight pipe or to do it "right" you could go pay way to much to get a new converter put on.

The OBDll system will need to be reset with a scanner. Waiting for the computer to do a system can take time and mileage.

With all the problems, you might have a module problem. Make sure it is alright.

Or they gave you the wrong line. There may have been a design change though. Ask the dealer

Sounds like the relay that runs the fuel pump. The computer may be reading no oil pressure and shuts the engine down Check the oil pressure when it starts with a manual gauge. You may need to prime the oil pump.