Top 10 2000 Jeep Cherokee Questions & Answers

Problem I found: Clunk when driving over even small bumps.

If Grand Cherokee is 1999-2004, then check this: Above the differential is a wishbone cross member control arm. The cross member attaches to the frame in front of the rear axle (bolts through rubber bushings), and directly above the differential, at the apex of the cross member, is a ball joint. The ball joint assembly is a flange bolted atop the differential, with three bolts, and the ball joint pin protrudes from the flange through the cross member apex, with a nut atop the pin. Raise the frame slightly, and with a pry bar, pry above the flange, and below the cross member, very near the ball joint. If any motion is detected, then the ball joint is worn from the ball joint socket, or the nut is loose on the ball joint pin. If the nut is tight, then replace the ball joint. 2000 GC part number is 52088808AB, and is available from online sources or dealers. To replace this part, you'll probably need to remove the cross member, as the ball joint pin through the cross member is in a tight location, is tightly wedged into the cross member, and requires a special v-shaped puller to remove the pin from the cross member. If you don't have access to the puller tool, then remove the cross member for this operation. Raise vehicle slightly, under frame, in front of rear wheels. Unbolt the brake line and brake cable retainers from the cross member, then unbolt the flange from atop the differential. Then remove the two frame bolts and manipulate the cross member out of the vehicle, from above the differential.

With the cross member before you, support on blocks, loosen the ball joint nut somewhat, or remove it, and with a beater protective block, sledge out the pin from the cross member. Inspect the rubber bushings at this time. These bushings require an arbor press to remove/install, and the arbor press to install requires a spider so as to not rip the rubber bushing from either the bushing shell or center spool. The press spider is a 4-point tool you can make up from a piece of aluminum.

Bolt the new ball joint flange atop the differential, using blue thread locker, and torque the bolts to 100 ft-lb, cheater pipe useful here.

Replace the cross member to the frame, and install the two frame bolts, finger tight. Pull the member apex down onto the ball joint pin, and run the nut down. Using a box end wrench, hold the pin from rotation while tightening down the nut. Torque the nut to 100 ft-lb. Tighten the frame attachment bolts to 100 ft-lb, and reinstall the brake cable and brake line retainers. Do not over tighten these retainer bolts, as they are passing only through the sheet steel side of the cross member. Take care to not strip the sheet metal threadings. Lower vehicle and remove jack.

OK.. HI.

The codes you have they refer to:
P0340. No cam signal at the PCM
P0622. Generator field not switching properly. " Charging system"
P1388. Auto shutdown relay control circuit.

""""""""NOTE"""""""""
"" P0340" This code , cam sensor make the car long start or not start, conditions.

My diagram is also not there and it's not listed in the owner's manual. I did a search on net and came across this service manual on Ebay. I bought it, arrived in 2 days and it is filled with more information then I will ever use to repair my Jeep. This is a great manual on CD. for $15.00 Here is the link to check it out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270254012252&category=34224&sspagename=DCP:RV:GI

There's a few more things to check out:
1. The track bar links, which attach from frame to the sway bar. Inspect the bolts/nuts to ensure they are really tight and the rubber isn't worn to the point of slack.
2. The bushings where the upper control arm attach to the frame. Inspect these for torn rubber/missing bolts. (These 2 bushings are on the fore end of the wishbone where you changed the upper ball joint.)
3. The bushings in the other, straight control arms that restrain the differential.
4. The shock absorber bolts/rubbers at frame and axle.
5. The u-joints on drive shaft.
6. The differential input pinion bearings. Raise vehicle and really yank/pry/push around the drive shaft and look for any slack.
7. The drive shaft at transmission. Check for any play over 0.020", side to side, up and down.
8. The transmission rubber mount.
9. The axle bearings. To check these, lift under axle, each wheel, and yank wheel fore/aft, up/down, and maybe use a pry bar. You're looking for axle bearing wear where the axle is supported at the outer ends of the axle tubes, just behind the brake mountings.
10. While the vehicle is raised (wheels off ground), chock the front wheels, and put transmission in neutral. Now check for significant slack when you manually rotate the wheels by hand, back and forth. If slack here (say, 10-15 degrees of fore/aft rotation on a wheel), then the spider gears are probably worn at the cross shaft in the differential carrier. Depending on the amount of slack, you can change the spider gears, side gears, cross shaft, and the associated thrust washers yourself, if you're a capable mechanic. This requires opening the differential cover, removing the rear axles (at least far enough to get the axles out from the side gears), remove the cross pin retainer bolt, manipulate the cross shaft out, manipulate the spider gears with their thrust washers, out, manipulate the side gears, with their thrust washers, out, then replace the above, with a 'gear kit', which includes the side gears, new thrust washer, spider gears, with new thrust washers, cross pin, and cross pin retainer. A 'gear kit' is around $85 for the Dana 44, 30-spline axle kit. While those parts are out, pry the carrier in each direction inspecting for slack in the carrier bearings and check the pinion/ring gear slack at that time. If you find a bad carrier bearing or pinion bearing, then you should probably find a mechanic to replace those, unless you're a 'very capable' mechanic. After reassembling the gear kit (side gears with their respective thrust washers, spider gears, with their respective thrust washers), cross pin, and retainer bolt, clean the sealing mating surface of both the axle housing and cover, remove the fill plug from the cover, apply RTV sealer to the cover (1/4" bead), attach the cover with bolts, replacing the tags in their original locations, refill differential with either 85w oil or 70W140 synthetic, as desired, approx 2.3 liters, replace plug, and check for leaks. Note: when removing the differential cover, remove all but 2 mid-side bolts, and make them loose. Then tap the very bottom of the lid towards the rear to loosen the cover, have drain pan under the differential to catch the oil. Then remove the 2 remaining bolts and cover. The lid projects below the housing about 1/16" and that is the part of the lid you want to bump on to loosen the cover.
11. Rear disc brake caliper mounting brackets.
12. The sway bar rubber mountings on the axle.

.. and that pretty much covers everything that can make noise on/in the rear end.

13. If a tow hitch is attached, check that for proper attachment.
14.Fuel tank loose, or fuel pump inside tank loose.
15. Spare tire loose, or junk in the spare tire carrier hole.
16. Loose junk in the right rear side compartment (this is actually a CD changer compartment, but if no CD changer is installed, then people put all kinds of junk in there)
17. Rear lift door. Open it a bit and check for side to side play. I've heard of terrible noise on my rear lift gate, and it was the rubber wind seal making a bunch of noise. I wiped it with a rag I sprayed silicone oil onto and quieted that down.

how old are your spark plugs and wires? (miles since changed) If wires and plugs are good , it's probably a problem w/ the fuel injectors.

Do you have the old compessor? Drain out what is in there and use that amount as a guide + 1 oz. There is no ratio per se. As long as you are close without being crazy low (none) or crazy high (over flowing), you're good.

P0171 OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description System Too Lean (Bank 1)

What does that mean? Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.
Note: This DTC is very similar to P0174 and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

Symptoms You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

Causes A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
• There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.

Possible Solutions Possible solutions include:

• In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
• Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
• Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure

Hope this help.

usually part of the radio fuse OR listed as a aux pwr. fuse panel is under dashboard to the left of steering wheel

You never replace any parts until you properly
test them & they fail a test

You need wiring diagrams to know where your
test points are

Can't do anything to resolve any electrical issue
without the use of a volt meter

FSM. its all there.
or try alldata.com
if doing DIY and are serious. get serious books, or get alldata.
or at mitchels, both have DIY page.
most cars its in the fuse box.