The tail lights work off the headlight switch, and there is a fuse for the tail lights. Make sure the fuse is good, first, a 15 amp (blue) fuse in the instrument panel fuse block. Then, you might have a bad headlight switch. So you DO have dash lights, they just don't dim from the dimmer switch? In the wiring diagram, there is a green wire from a "tail light relay" (in the "Junction Block-Right Instrument Panel") that carries power to all the exterior lamps, as well as having a splice to the Instrument Panel Cluster (illum. bulbs), and to the lamp dimmer, and to the radio bulb. To do any further testing, you would need a voltmeter or a test light, so you could chase down this power loss. Good luck.
it is on the transmission casing according to an older fixya posting I searched for. see link below for an idea of location
https://www.autocodes.com/qa/?qa=blob&qa_blobid=1155693300409539994
Sometimes the emission light will come on if the gasket on the gas cap is worn or dirty, thus not sealing properly. If it doesn't look worn, then try cleaning it.
Your turn signal lights and brake lights are the same lights . Question : do the front parking lights work ? The front and rear running lights or parking lights are all on the same circuit and fuse . If the front lights work , and the rear lights don't , make sure the bulbs are good first . If OK , I would suspect the problem is either a bad ground in the rear taillight wiring harness or a bad connection in the rear taillight connector Itself .
You need to figure out what you do not have that an engine needs to run. What is the fuel pressure at the fuel rail? Do you have spark when cranking the engine? Are the fuel injectors operating? Do you have ample compression? When you figure out what you do not have, that will tell you what you need to fix.
first, don't go 60 mph. next, are your lug nuts tight, wheels may need balanced. check front end tie-rods, idler arm, etc., this is unsafe, have your local mechanic check it out for you, make sure your lug nuts are on tight first.
the ground is through the compressor body
unless you have gotten pressure readings , the gas is not enough or excessive It would appear that you added the gas by the can and not by pressure gauges
there are 2 pressure switches in the system
one is for excessive pressures and the other is for too low pressures and both switch of the compressor action
take it to an ac specialist shop and have it diagnosed and gassed properly
Basic electrical problem . loose connection on a ground circuit ,high resistance . There are no magical fixes for automotive electrical gremlins . Finding electrical wiring diagrams an voltage drop testing the electrical circuits is the only way to find the problem .
When the ignition switch is placed in the Start position 12 volts is supplied through the Park/Neutral Position Switch or Clutch Pedal Position switch to the switch and coil side of the Starter Cut Relay. If theft is not active the Theft Deterrent Module grounds the control side of the Starter Cut Relay closing its switch. Power then travels to the coils side of the ST Relay with ground at G200 closing the ST Relay. Power then flows from the Main fuse in the Fuse Block - Underhood through the switch side of the ST Relay and then to the S terminal of the Starter Solenoid. Ground is found through the engine block.
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Knowing how the systems work is one of the first priority ! Learning how electrical systems work .
Learning how to read wiring diagrams an use them for pin pointing areas for testing .
Check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes , this should be one of the first steps .
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Free wiring diagrams here
http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size. Under system click on engine then under subsystem click starting . I would start with a voltage drop test of the main battery cable to the starter motor.
Starter Voltage Drop
Vibes have had a number of problems, so this could be one of them. These brake systems are ultra-sensitive to contaminated brake fluid - make absolutely sure they completely flushed the system and replaced the brake fluid when they replaced the master cylinder.
It has good spark then? Have you pulled a plug or two after prolonged cranking to see if plugs are wet with gas? You said pump was working, have you checked the fuel pressure? Nothing in your comment about the injectors-that's why I asked if plugs were wet.
Check the fuse for injectors, verify that power is available at all injectors with key in ON. You can check the injector circuit with a "noid light" available at any parts store-different sizes, so get the one that fits your injector connector. Just plug the light in and crank the engine over. If circuit is good, the light will blink. If it doesn't blink or if it lights up and stays lit-the circuit is not right.
All of this is to see if injectors are pulsing and spraying fuel. Do the same with spraying starting fluid into the air intake and cranking motor. If engine now runs for a few seconds, then you know it was a fueling problem.
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