2006 Ford Focus - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Replace the fuel filter. If that doesn't work you may need to replace the fuel pump.

just take a picture of it and take it into your part store they will know what it is

If it shakes while applying the brake I would say you have a warped rotor on the front

I am not sure, but this video might help. I think this booster brake valve is located next the the brake fluid container.

engine missfire, sensor, valves, spark plugs, spark plug wire, catalytic converter. It can be any of these above.

Did you disconnect the rod from the brake pedal to the booster?

remove the plastic cover on the car boot. There is some screws that you need to remove front the plastic cover to get access to the lamps that illuminates the licence plate. Replace the small lamps and voila !!!

it is a diesel, so use specific diesel oil 10w 40 oil and the brand dosen't really matter as long as it is not a straight mineral oil I used shell rotella for many years and had no wear problems there are many comments as to when the oil should be changed. engine oil ( other than straight mineral oil have additives included that hold moisture in suspension ( short stop start operations --shopping , school kids) have a tension additive to stop the oil squeezing out under bearing load pressures ( known as tensile strength and is used to keep the bearings separated from the crank journals under load) cleaning additives to hold combustion acids and other contaminants in suspension ( sulphuric acid formed from the combustion process and escapes past the rings to the sump) an additive to prevent carbonizing when hot ( requirement for turbos) Oil is passed through the turbo housing to lubricate and cool the high speed bearings and tends to boil off quickly) oil changes have to be done no later than the specified service interval as this is the period of use when the additives have been neutralized and become useless. changing oil sooner will remove contaminates before they do damage and are beneficial to the long life of the engine Professional mechanics will tell you that oil,if change on a regular basis, is a cheap mechanic

Most likely a cloughed exaugust system but make sure you have had a complete tune up within last 5000 miles

On the transmission is a sensor ,Transmisson range sensor.This sensor tells the ( PCM ) engine computer what gear the vehicle is in.The PCM in turn puts a message on the serial data bus ,where the instrument cluster reads it and puts it on PRND321 what ever gear your in. That part of your cluster mite be bad or the range sensor mite need to be adjusted . There mite be a DTC stored in one of the modules . Serial Data Bus you should read this if don't know what this is.

Sounds like an intermitting ground issue.

rattle gun tight

As an ASE Mechanic, it is hard to diagnose something without it NOT WORKING. So I understand your frustration but I will give you a few items that it could be but no one will be able to assist you until it is NOT working. FIRST thing I would check is make sure your Air Cleaner is CLEAN and that Air can pass through. SECOND is the Fuel Filter... These are the Common issues for your Problem that are NOT ELECTRICAL... Changing these 2 items can fix your issues and should be periodically changed. Now for the list of things it can be with Electrical Implications: MAP Sensor, MAF Sensor, ECU, Crankshaft Sensor, Camshaft Sensor, Emergency Shut Off Switch (Only seen this a couple of times), Ignition Module, Ignition Switch, IAC (Idle Air Control Valve... Seen this MANY MANY times). The IAC is normally when the Car is COLD... Not when it is warm. Is this a COLD ONLY ISSUE?

Sounds like Blend Door Activator is broken, without knowing what kind of car it is I can't really tell you where it is located. Google your car model and year, look for Replace Blend Door Activator there may be a diagram to show where the Blend Door Activator is and you may be able to move it by hand.

What make, model is it?

it needs to have a matching program for the ecm and the immobiliser. A new key cut to the existing barrel/lock and programmed to the vehicle ecm will solve the problem. Even if you get a new barrel and key you will still have to have it reprogrammed to the ecm and immobiliser system

Take it to the dealer.

Well, there are numbers you could have used to get one at a salvage yard(still would have to be programmed). Since it is gone, you'll have to have the VIN off the car and go to a dealer with the car to have one put in.

auto stores sell a flexible tool with 2 or 3 claws on the end to do this type of chore. It has a plunger knob on the top end that opens and closes the claws.

You need to have the Car Scanned, thats the only way to truely know. I resently have been having a Temp sensor issue, but it could be Temp, O2, or Worse.. See your local mechanic and ask them to scan.. Typically no charge.