Top 10 2005 Ford Taurus Questions & Answers

Battery GREEN/BLACK (+) RADIO HARNESS
Accesory BLACK/PINK (+) RADIO HARNESS
Ground BLACK/GREEN (-) RADIO HARNESS
LF Speaker (+) ORANGE/GREEN
LF Speaker (-) BLUE/WHITE
RF Speaker (+) TAN/GREEN
RF Speaker (-) GREEN/ORANGE
LR Speaker (+) GRAY/BLUE
LR Speaker (-) BROWN/YELLOW
RR Speaker (+) BLACK/VIOLET
RR Speaker (-) ORANGE/VIOLET

On this website you find fuse box diagram and descrition for Ford Taurus (2005)
https://www.carknowledge.info/ford-taurus-1999-2007-fuse-box-diagram/

https://www.autogenius.info/ford-taurus-1999-2007-fuse-box-diagram/

4.5 quarts with filter of 20w50 oil

Not sure on your engine so heres both types. :-) Hope it helps. Cobra
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve — 3.0L (2V) Removal and Installation

1. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve tube quick-connect from the PCV valve.

CAUTION: A new PCV valve must be installed if removed from the cam cover. Damage will occur to the locking mechanism on the PCV valve.
Remove the PCV valve.

• Disconnect the PCV valve electrical connector.

• Rotate to release and remove the PCV valve.

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve — 3.0L (4V) Removal and Installation

1. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve tube from the PCV valve

CAUTION: A new PCV valve must be installed if removed from the cam cover. Damage will occur to the locking mechanism on the PCV valve.
Rotate to release and remove the PCV valve.

here it is

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there are 4 fuses that are used to power up different parts of the cruse system all are in the inside fuse box ( under the left side of the dash ) fuse #32 10amp, fuse #27 10amp, fuse #17 15amp, fuse #38 15amp, the main unit fuse is the #32.

hope this helps.

CODE P1633 - PCM KEEP MEMORY VOLTAGE TOO LOW. WHEN YOU SEE THIS CODE THE PCM HAS DETECTED THAT THE KEEP ALIVE MEMORY POWER CIRCUIT TO THE BATTERY WAS INTERRUPTED.

• To replace the orifice tube ---

1. Remove the washer and overflow bottle. The high side service port is on a pipe about eight inches long to make it easier for service. The fitting and orifice tube are near this pipe. The fitting is covered with a protective rubber cover that makes it hard to see the fitting.
2. Push the cover back.
3. Disconnect the fitting.
4. Replace the orifice tube.
5. Lubricate the new o-ring and torque the fitting to 18 foot pounds.

• Ford says to use a special too to get the orifice tube out of the hose. I find needle nose pliers gets the job done real well unless it is really stuck then use the tool.

• If you have any comments please feel free to leave them here.
• Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa.

Regards, Tony

You have one of two problems: Either the starter drive on your starter is defective and is not engaging the flywheel to crank the engine, or the flywheel has some broken or damaged teeth that are preventing the starter from engaging.
Starters come in a variety of designs. On some, the solenoid is mounted on top of the starter. When you turn the key, the solenoid routes current to the starter motor and at the same time pulls a lever that slides the drive gear mechanism out so it will engage the flywheel and crank the engine. If the solenoid is weak or damaged, it may not be strong enough to overcome the spring tension that retracts the drive gear. So the starter spins but doesn't crank the engine.
On other starters, the solenoid is mounted remotely. When the starter motor starts to spin, it ratchets out so the drive gear will engage the flywheel and crank the engine. If the drive mechanism is damaged or hung up, the motor may spin but not crank the engine.
Regardless of what type of starter you have, it will have to come out for further inspection. The drive gear (which is sometimes referred to as a "Bendix drive") should move out when the starter starts to spin. The drive gear usually has a one-way clutch that is supposed to protect the starter against damage if someone keeps cranking the engine once it starts. The gear should turn one way but not the other. If the gear is locked up or turns freely either way, the drive is bad and needs to be replaced. If the drive can't be replaced separately, you'll have to replace the entire starter.
Starter Testing If the drive seems okay, the starter should be "bench tested" using jumper cables or special equipment designed for this purpose.
CAUTION: Be careful because a starter develops a lot of torque. It should be held down with a strap or clamped in a vice (be careful not to crush or deform the housing!) before voltage is applied.
A simple no-load bench test can be performed with a battery and a pair of jumper cables to see if a starter motor will spin. But this test alone won't tell you if the starter is good or bad because a weak starter that lacks sufficient power to crank an engine at the proper speed (usually a minimum of 250 to 500 rpm) may still spin up to several thousand rpm when voltage is applied with no load.
A better method of determining a starter's condition is to have it tested on equipment that measures the starter's "amp draw." A good starter should normally draw a current of 60 to 150 amps, depending on the size or power rating of the starter. Some "high torque" GM starters may draw up to 250 amps, so refer to the OEM specifications to make sure the amp draw is within the acceptable range.
If the starter does not spin freely, or draws an unusually high or low number of amps, it is defective and replacement is required.
An unusually high current draw and low free turning speed typically indicate a shorted armature, grounded armature or field coils, or excessive friction within the starter itself (dirty, worn or binding bearings or bushings, a bent armature shaft or contact between the armature and field coils). The magnets in permanent magnet starters can sometimes break or separate from the housing and drag against the armature.
A starter that does not turn and draws a high current may have a ground in the terminal or field coils, or a frozen armature.
Failure to spin and zero current draw indicates an open field circuit, open armature coils, defective brushes or a defective solenoid.
Low free turning speed combined with a low current draw indicates high internal resistance (bad connections, bad brushes, open field coils or armature windings).