20 Most Recent 1997 Ford Explorer AWD Questions & Answers

do to any electrical work remove neg battery lug first and not blow up expensive modules. door locks dead or door windows or both. ? just one door fails? all flush checked.? pull battery neg lug then put back the cut wire properly ,soldered and heat shrink tubing used, then replace all blown fuses,and put back battery neg lug last? this car uses a GEM module to direct all that, to windows and you do not want to blow up any GEM, ok? lets do fuse related. F8 maxi fuse 30amp in battery junctionbox. boom f10 same box same amps and same maxi fuse type. fuse 10 also blows and all door locks dead too. so when you short out wires things die checking fuses is always first. or CB circuit breakers, none here CB. , boom

1997 Ford Explorer 4WD 5.0 liter V-8 VIN "P"



Hope helps (remember rated this post). TY for using Fixya.

Child Locks activated? Normally a slide switch in the door edge.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to Ford Explorer. Take a look at all the videos. https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+Ford+Explorer+5.0+oil+cooler+O-rings+replacement ..

Yes is the short answer. Did you blow the gears in your front differential or you going to put a whole new pumpkin in? If you are replacing the entire pumpkin drain it first. Then make sure to support it with a transmission jack first. Remove the tires. Then remover the CV axles and lower the pumpkin. Your vehicle requires a 75w90 synthetic axle lube for a refill. Good luck.

theres a clip holding it on. press in the clip and pull

There is a latch inside the frame of the back door. You have to switch the latch to unlock and they will then allow someone in the back seat to open the doors.

From www.topix.com /forum/autos
1998 (2000) Expedition....child safety lock often kicked in by itself. SOLVEDI wedged it down with a rubber plug. - ALL OK for ~ 3 years.
Then lock "activated" even with lever DOWN.
All is FINE NOW - see below.
Rick
Milton, Canada
Remove the plastic cover around the lock lever. Spray a light penatrating oil (wd-40) in and around the lock leaver mechanisim and work the mechanisim up and down several times. This should free up the small gravity lock inside the mechanism.

Good luck.

Factory says 5W-30.
You can do better with Walmart's full synthetic 5W-30 with a filter and oil change every 5 - 6,000 miles.
Just keep an eye on oil level - the V8 version of this vehicle does use oil after about 120,000 miles. The 6 is a bit better until about 150,000 miles.

Tie rods, ball joints, control arm...

its drawing too much air in to the intake bypassing the injectors/air flow sensor check the inlet manifold gasket and all the seals like injector seals or gaskets etc

here's a site that might help.. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/273028-rear-wiper-not-working-97-explorer.html hope so

Speed sensor light, do you mean check engine light? I'm a retired (2004) Ford dealer tech and I have no memory of any light called a speed sensor light.

what color was the trans fluid when you took it out? did it "sparkle" like it had metal shavings in it?

Time for an overhaul of the transmission.

A weak battery will not spin the engine fast enough to start it. Replace the battery and make sure that all of the connections are clean and tight especially in cold weather.

Many times after hitting bumps or holes in the roads. Loose connection ! Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size. Under system click on lighting then under subsystem click on thing's your having problems with . See if they share a common grounding point or a connector in the wiring harness ,power supply etc.... Check by wiggling connections , wiring harness etc.. till you find were you can make the lights go on an off .

Faulty fuel regulator.