Top 10 1996 Ford Explorer Questions & Answers

Here it is.

1996 Ford Explorer Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Green/Violet
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Light Green
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Orange/Blue
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue (If Equipped)
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Front Speakers Size: N/A
Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink
-->

that sounds too high to me.. check local junk yards for price first, then call a shop and ask them how much labor it is to install it..will be much cheaper....im a garage owner and the labor book is showing 2.1 hours to replace times their labor rate

Here you go...

Base Console, Floor, Ranger, Explorer Removal and Installation

1. Remove the two oval covers from the sides of the floor console. Remove the four (two on each side) retaining bolts. Lift or remove the front seat center armrest (644A22) from the floor console.
   

1. Remove one screw from the top rear end of the floor console (directly under the front seat center armrest.
   

1. Remove four screws retaining the utility tray beverage holder to floor console. Lift or remove the utility tray beverage holder from the console.
   

1. Remove two screws (directly under the utility tray beverage holder) retaining the front end of the floor console to the console panel front mounting bracket.
   

1. Lift the floor console from the front and rear console panel mounting brackets.
   

Hope this helps

Hi,

You have got a faulty wiper motor. It wont return to its originals eating position which is usually at the bottom of the windscreen, because it has either burnt the position circut out or broken the gear drive inside.

It will be the same for the speed it is going also.

Get the motor removed and get it tested/replaced.

I hope this help, please let me know how you get on and what you find

Regards

Jason

a drive cycle is not measured in miles driven but in the type of driving done, here is a ford drive cycle procedure to clear the not ready code.

Ford Motor Company Driving Cycle Description of OBDII Drive Cycle
The following procedure is designed to execute and complete the OBDII monitors and to clear the Ford P1000, I/M readiness code. To complete a specific monitor for repair verification, follow steps 1 through 4, then continue with the step described by the appropriate monitor found under the "OBDII Monitor Exercised" column. When the ambient air temperature is outside 4.4 to 37.8°C (40 to 100° F), or the altitude is above 2438 meters (8000 feet), the EVAP monitor will not run. If the P1000 code must be cleared in these conditions, the PCM must detect them once (twice on some applications) before the EVAP monitor can be "bypassed" and the P1000 cleared. The Evap "bypassing" procedure is described in the following drive cycle.
The OBDII Drive Cycle will be performed using a scan tool. Consult the instruction manual for each described function. NOTE: A detailed description of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reset is found in this section, refer to the table of contents.
Drive Cycle Recommendations:

1. Most OBDII monitors will complete more readily using a "steady foot" driving style during cruise or acceleration modes. Operating the throttle in a "smooth" fashion will minimize the time required for monitor completion.
2. Fuel tank level should be between 1/2 and 3/4 fill with 3/4 fill being the most desirable.
3. The Evaporative Monitor can only operate during the first 30 minutes of engine operation. When executing the procedure for this monitor, stay in part throttle mode and drive in a smooth fashion to minimize "fuel slosh".

WARNING
STRICT OBSERVANCE OF POSTED SPEED LIMITS AND ATTENTION TO DRIVING CONDITIONS ARE MANDATORY WHEN PROCEEDING THROUGH THE FOLLOWING DRIVE CYCLES.
For best results, follow each of the following steps as accurately as possible:

Nice SUV, I have the same model and year; 1996 Ford Explorer 4WD 4.0 liter SOHC V-6 VIN "X"



Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

P1260 indicates that the Passive Anti Theft system (PATS) detected a "theft condition". This basically means an incorrect signal, or no signal at all was received from the chipped key. Brief overview: your ignition key has a chip in it called a transponder that is read by the PATS transceiver (mounted around the ignition cylinder housing behind the column shroud). The signal is then sent to the PATS control module, which communicates with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and enables the vehicle to start. Sorry for all the acronyms! When an incorrect signal is received, the PATS module then sends this message to the PCM which triggers the P1260 trouble code, resulting in a no start condition.

Possible causes are: an incorrect key being used, faulty key chip (transponder), wiring concerns between the transceiver module and PATS module, the transceiver module itself or internal PATS or PCM module concerns. The first thing to do in this instance is retrieve codes from the PATS module and diagnose these. Once the PATS issues have been resolved you can reset the P1260. Communication with the PATS module will likely need to be done at a Ford dealer. A few things to check first: make sure the correct key is being used, and if you have a second key, try that one as well. If one key starts it but not the other, you may have a faulty key. If both keys do not work, then it is not likely a key problem.

Honestly, we see very few problems with the keys themselves. Make sure no one has tampered with the steering column shroud as the transceiver module located behind it is fairly fragile. Lastly check for an aftermarket remote start system. These are a common cause of no start problems with PATS equipped vehicles. Some installers will remove the chip from your key and tape it to the column (under the shroud). This basically bypasses the system and allows it to be started without a chipped key. The problem is that the transponder removed from the key is not designed to be used in this way and can fail due to extreme temperature changes and, depending on mounting condition, excessive vibration and shock. Other installers use a "key box" installed under the dash, and these have been known to cause issues as well. If you suspect the concern to be related to a remote start it may not be a bad idea to have it checked or removed to complete diagnosis.

I hope this information has been helpful (remember to rate this).

The oxygen (O2) sensors are located in the exhaust system. There are three O2 sensors and one Catalyst Monitor, one in each of the exhaust headers near each of the front wheels and the third in the common exhaust pipe further back. A special deep socket is available from any parts store to remove the sensors. The socket has a **** down its length to accommodate the sensor wire permanently attached. Simply disconnect the bullet connector and unscrew the sensor.



I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514