The chip in the key is part of the anti-theft system and immobilizer. Did the vehicle start after the fuel pump was changed? It is normal to disconnect the battery when removing fuel pump, and after a battery disconnect, the anti-theft system need to be reset.
Insert the key into the driver's side door lock.
Turn the key once, but not all the way to unlock the door. Leave the key in this position for 40-60 seconds. ...
Do this again, but turn the key in the opposite direction.
Remove the key from the door, get into your Ford, and start the engine. The system should be reset.
Remove the visor clips on both sides of the overhead console bracket. You can then pull down the headliner just enough to slide the bracket out over the rearview mirror.
The first thing I would check is to see if any of the wires you changed grounded out and caused a fuse to blow. Also it is possible that when you hooked up the lights to the radio it went to the wrong wire causing the problem. Also it is possible that as you worked putting in the radio you accidentally came in contact that feeds the dash lights. So check your fuses that controls the dash lights.
If you pulled the dash panel the dimmer adjustment on the light switch may have been turned off.
I have a 2005 4.0 liter ford explorer and i have the code p0182 popping up where is this senor located...my mechanic says that there is no such thing as fuel temperature sensor... please help?
Probably there is a problem with the Harmonic Balancer. This then destroyed the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Replace harmonic balancer and Crankshaft position sensor and it should work. If not then check the Throttle position sensor, and replace if not working. If not that check wires and see if PCM is grounded right and wires are not frayed. Get your PCM reprogramed or reflashed.
Bulbs maybe burned out or a wire for the dash has broken or a bad solder joint on the circuit board make sure you use a continuity tester on the fuses sometimes they still look good but are bad check all the fuse holders for the instrument cluster a loose fuse or bad corroded wire Wil knock them out also follow the wires to the connections from the fuse box the contacts can be corroded
check all the Fuses. especially the one that may be common to all. i don't have a Manual here. I advise you, to go get a manual, for around $30 , at the Parts Store. Look at the Wiring Harness and Fuse Blocks. They come together somewhere. Also, you did not mention the red Brake Lamp. Is it on? If so that will possibly disable, all the above.
1st u must have the computer scanned & have codes & the sensor readings read, to find which sensor or system is out of spec. It could be anywhere from emissions problem, electrical short to damaged ECM. Step 1 is a scan of the system to get a starting point. Have this done by a reliable tech. Good luck
Hi,
There is a fuse to power the compass it is the central junction box.it is behind left of dash fuse number 21 takes a 5 amp fuse. If that fuse is ok you need a good scan tool to see what the instrument cluster is saying like codes. Good luck
there is a bulky relay probably under the hood , I believe it conked out on you due to too much load or a short , 1st of all , connect your stereo directly to your battery both positive and neative... Then buy the shop manual and find the master relay for all the electricity suplied to the mensioned parts... It would also be a good idea that you make sure NEGATIVE cable is got a solid cnnection and also connect a 4 guage ground wire to the engine... preferably right to the alternators bottom bolt . Also check the wire delivering juice to the fuse box itself , chances are the wire melted it self seperate , as the fuse might have been too high a number...
It should be noted that the ETC system includes a warning indicator (wrench light) on the instrument cluster that illuminates when a fault is detected. Faults are accompanied by DTCs and may also illuminate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL).
Torque Based Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)
Overview
The Generation II (Gen II) torque based electronic throttle control (ETC) is a hardware and software strategy that delivers an engine output torque (via throttle angle) based on driver demand (pedal position). It uses an electronic throttle body, the PCM, and an accelerator pedal assembly to control the throttle opening and engine torque. The ETC system replaces the standard cable operated accelerator pedal, idle air control (IAC) valve, 3-wire throttle position sensor (TPS), and mechanical throttle body.
Torque based ETC enables aggressive automatic transmission shift schedules (earlier upshifts and later downshifts). This is possible by adjusting the throttle angle to achieve the same wheel torque during shifts, and by calculating this desired torque, the system prevents engine lugging (low RPM and low manifold vacuum) while still delivering the performance and torque requested by the driver. It also enables many fuel economy/emission improvement technologies such as variable cam timing (VCT) (deliver same torque during transitions).
Torque based ETC also results in less intrusive vehicle and engine speed limiting, along with smoother traction control.
Other benefits of ETC are:
Eliminate cruise control actuators.
Eliminate idle air control (IAC) valve.
Better airflow range.
Packaging (no cable).
More responsive powertrain at altitude and improved shift quality.
I don't know where you checked alternator out-put? I'd check at the alternator bat terminal and across battery posts, both, the reading should be close to the same.
It's possible when you took battery cable loose to install ammeter in series, a module may have shut off? Use a jumper wire to keep connection till you get the ammeter hooked up. Just my opinion.
P2106 - Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) System - Forced Limited Power
Description:
The TAC system is in the failure mode effects management (FMEM) mode of forced limited power. This DTC indicates the FMEM action is in effect due to a failure in an electronic throttle control (ETC) related component or module.
Possible Causes:
Unplugged motor, circuits shorted to power.
TAC motor open, unplugged motor, circuits shorted to power.
TAC motor stuck open or closed.
Mass air flow (MAF) sensor fault.
Throttle position (TP) sensor fault.
Module communications network concerns.
Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor fault (Vehicles with an EGR system module [ESM]).
Output shaft speed (OSS) sensor fault (Crown Victoria, Expedition, Explorer, F-150 4.6L and 5.4L, Grand Marquis, LS, Mountaineer, Mustang 4.6L automatic, Thunderbird, Town Car).
Turbine shaft speed (TSS) sensor fault (Crown Victoria, Expedition, Explorer, F-150 4.6L and 5.4L, Grand Marquis, LS, Mountaineer, Mustang 4.6L automatic, Thunderbird, Town Car).
Anti-lock brake system (ABS) fault (Crown Victoria, Expedition, Explorer, F-150 4.6L and 5.4L, Grand Marquis, LS, Mountaineer, Mustang 4.6L automatic, Thunderbird, Town Car).
Diagnostic Aids:
This DTC is an informational DTC and can be set in combination with a number of other DTCs which are causing the FMEM. Diagnose any accompanying powertrain DTCs first. For Crown Victoria, Expedition, Explorer, F-150 4.6L and 5.4L, Grand Marquis, LS, Mustang 4.6L automatic, Thunderbird, and Town Car with only P2106, repair any ABS DTCs, ABS related DTCs in other modules or vehicle communication concerns using the appropriate section of the Workshop Manual.
Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory
All
GO to QE1
P2106 TAC System Forced Limited Power 2004 Ford Explorer
hi,
sounds like a combination bad vacuum leak and/or fuel. find the egr valve and temporarily plug the line going from and to it and test it, check all your vacuum connections, you would hear it hissing. those plastic vacuum connectors get brittle and crack about this time . Ive had a few electric fuel pumps fail that way, half dead. bout time for one of those. check fuel pressure also.if it threw a code and the check engine light is on then you can have the code read at autozone for free.
