I need the fuse panel diagram for the 1990 ford bronco 2 because all my fuses weren't installed when I bought the bronco and I'm not hearing the fuel pump turn on
Here's the diagram for the fuse panel under the dash. There is also a fuse panel under the hood next to the air filter.
Posted on Jan 29, 2010
button on the dash does not engage 4x4. It just makes a clicking sound in the glovebox area
The sound is not coming from the glove compartment, it is coming from the panel behind the drivers seat, that's where the relays and computer are located.
The relays click and apply power to a transfer case motor.
The motor attempts to turn a shaft that engages the front drive shaft.
When the computer thinks the shaft has NOT turned it tries again.
It will try three times then quit, figuring the shaft has not turned.
Get someone to crawl under the vehicle and engage the 4WD (just turn on the ignition- do not start the engine) See if they can hear the motor attempt to turn the shaft, it will make a clicking sound.
If not the connections or the motor may be bad.
I have found the most probable cause is the relays on the control board.
If you are technically adept --
you can remove the small side panel from behind the drivers seat and remove the control board. (remove the power plugs first)
Clean the relay contacts and bend them a little to give them more 'wipe' to keep them clean longer.
Put it back in and turn on the ignition.
Then push the RESET button on the side of the board.
Try the in / out 4WD a couple of times. If it doesn't work turn off the ignition, turn it back on and push the reset button again.
Posted on Oct 27, 2008
1989 Ford Bronco Full-size 5.0 liter, fuel injected. Starts right up, idles up to about 1,500 rpm for a second and then dies. Starts every time. Was starting and running until put in gear and then would die.
try checking the thermostat control senser. it caused my bronco to start for a second and then die. after a while it would finally start and run for a while then die driving down the road. i changed the thermostat control senser and it fixed all problems of dieing
Posted on May 10, 2009
my 89 bronco ii is standard and the lights next to the buttons for 4x4 and low range seem to be lit but nothing happen when i click the buttons. and I've had it in neutral with my foot on and off the brake. I've tried it with the ignition off(on prime) and on and i don't hear any noise under the car or in the car when i click the buttons
ON LEVEL GROUND
With the transmission selector in "park", start the motor.
With your foot on the brake pedal (steady-constant pressure), move the transmission selector gear to neutral- then turn the 4 X 4 selector knob to 4-wheel drive high. Wait for the 4 X 4 engagement.
Once it is in 4-wheel drive high, with the transmission selector still in neutral, quickly pump the brake peddle twice, keeping you foot on the brake pedal on the second pump, turn the 4 X 4 selector knob from high range to low range. The transfer case should then change from 4-wheel drive high to low.
Electronics being what they are, you sometimes have to repeat the process. You may even have to inch forward or backward.
[I have an '01 Excursion and an '05 F250 with 4 X 4 on the fly...I miss my '97 F250 with the manual 4 X 4 shift on-the-floor!]
Anyway, check the fuse panel for any blown fuses.
Double check to make sure that the problem is not just blown 4 X 4 lights on the instrument cluster. With the nob turned to 4-wheel drive, have a second person- a spotter, check to see if the drive shaft to the transfer case is moving. If it isn't, you have to delve into the troubleshooting process.
Check the solenoids, vacuum hoses, vacuum actuator, and transmission range sensor on the transfer case. .
Posted on Nov 27, 2013
My brakes were working fine until the rear steel brake line developed a leak. After replacing the line and bleeding the brakes several times, the pedal became spongy with the engine running and would not generate enough pressure to open one of the four rear brake shoes. Same reult after installing new wheel cylinders. Same reult after rebuilding master cylinder. When engine is not running, the pedal is firm. As soon as the engine is started, the pedal is spongy.
If the problem is the booster, is there any way to verify the problem before purchasing a replacement booster?
if the booster is bad the pedal would be hard sounds like the e-brake is stuck take off the drums and make sure the arms are all the way back then did you adjust the rear brakes after changing the shoes
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
it has a shift-on fly button. no lights on dash no noise trying to engage. what do i try first before going to shop. where is the module on 89? everyone says behind driver's seat-- i can't find it. Haynes manual is worthless. i just had new hubs and brakes installed. it has 81,000 original im 3rd owner and its never been off road. thanks in advance for any advice--bruce
undo the rear interrior side pannel behind the driver seat, its on the LEFT side wall behind the interior panel. It might be that one of the Relays has gone bad, and thats where they are. around or near the seatbelt mechanism.
Posted on Apr 04, 2009
I have a 1989 Ford Bronco II 4x4. Before I changed the trans. fluid it ran great. shifted a little hard but no big deal. After the filter and fluid change it will not engage into gear. When put into OD, it grinds as if the gears are not engaged. If I accelerate the truck moves but continues to grind. Anyone had this problem?
BAM
It grinds just sitting still? Will it do it with the transfer case in neutral or 4x4?
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
i know the fan clutch has left hand threads but i can't lock the pulley to break it loose any tricks?
Leave the belt on, and put a screwdriver or other flat metal object across two of the bolt heads that are sticking out on the pulley to hold back. Make sure that you have sprayed the nut and threads with penetrating oil and let sit for five minutes before attempting. You may have to bump the wrench with a hammer while you are holding the pulley back with the other hand. The only other way is to use a really large pair of channel locks to hold back the pulley. The channel lock brand sells a plier called the "Big Azz". I suppose a large pipe wrench would do also if you could fit it in there.
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Posted on Feb 17, 2009
fuel pump wiring diagram needed
hi you can try this site they might be able to help you....hope that helps
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/72398/fullsize/tod.jpg%2520alt%3D&imgrefurl=http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/2742/12671-3&usg=__m_cAI85EgFEzDfBx-ag0LCqZLc0=&h=434&w=565&sz=57&hl=en&start=20&itbs=1&tbnid=wOnVrpIcnPoaoM:&tbnh=103&tbnw=134&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dford%2Btempo%2Btransmission%2Bbox%2Bdiagram%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG%26gbv%3D2%26tbs%3Disch:1
Posted on Mar 25, 2010
1986 Bronco II, 6 cylinder. Finding gas mixed in oil. Will start, but has problems running. Power isn't what it should be. Main problem is gas in the oil. Where could this be coming from.
from unburt fuel in the motor and exhaust. Completely sure thats it. had same problem. Make sure your engine is running hot and and normal operating tempurature. check over all your thermostate sensors. check to make sure actual thermostate is not stuck open. to much gas going through carburator. spark plug not getting efficent fire.
Posted on Aug 01, 2008
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