20 Most Recent 1987 Ford Bronco II Questions & Answers

carb --vapor locked --fuel filter ---switch over valve failure

I tend to agree with Scotty89. Having limited to no mechanical experience could coat you a lot more money than having a trained mechanic do the work. They will usually stand behind their work.

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1987 Ford Bronco II Workshop Repair Service Manual PDF Download for better result download the pdf file

Should be under the dash near the glove box, or behind the passenger kick panel.

The turn signals and brake lights use the same circuit and filament in the bulbs. The tail lights are on the other circuit which comes from the headlight switch.Do you have power on the tail light fuse ?

check the immobiliser first as the battery in the fob key may be low.Next run the fault codes as it may be cam/crank position sensor problem

You will need to pull the distributor out and remove the small round pin at the bottom of the drive gear and pull the center shaft out.

It is on top of the bell housing,it looks just like a brake bleeder ,you bleed it in the same way as brakes.jar and long hose,push the clutch peddle down with hose in jar,hold peddle down,open the bleeder valve,you will hear bubbles in fluid,close valve.repeat it 3 times,peddle will get stiff if hydraulics are good.

located on the transmission were the clutch line fasten to. you should see the bleeder valve.

Check your Fuel Pressure.

Return it where you got it fixed. Threaten to sue them OR fix it properly. This is entirely the fault of the mechanic who fixed it.

Although you have the 3 components to make it go ,you will also need the correct firing order. It is possible that the ignition timing is 180 degrees out . Right now you will have spark but at the wrong time on the wrong piston.

You would first need to find out if you are loosing spark or fuel when it stops running. That will tell you which area to troubleshoot.

FIRST DISCONECT BATERY REMUVE THE RADIATOR REMUVE ALL WIRINGS FROM THE ENGINE ELECTRICAL ACCESORIES P-S PUMP ALTERNADOR.A-C COMPRESSOR DISCONECT EXAUST PIPES FRON THE ENGINE STARTER ENGINE MOUNTS BOLTE AND ELL THE BEL HAUSING BOLTS

Disconnect battery for 5min.

You'll need three things to get this done: An independent distributor that doesn't require a vehicle computer, and intake manifold with a bolt pattern that'll work with a carburetor, and a carburetor. Oh, and a low-pressure fuel pump (the high-pressure one in the tank has to GO). You'll have to figure out the gauge cluster or replace all the gauges that rely on the computer. The swap itself is shockingly easy, once you have those three parts. It's all bolt-together, and suddenly your vehicle just got a LOT simpler and more intuitive to work on. The intake might be a little hard to find, unless that block was available in earlier years with a carburetor (in which case it's a shoo-in)... but even if you can't find an earlier intake, it may not be too hard to make an adapter plate that'd fit the carb. You'll need to deal with connecting the low-pressure fuel pump to that tank. One approach is to take the high-pressure pump out of the tank, rip its guts out, and use it as a big pickup tube for the external low-pressure pump. Me, I love carbureted vehicles. I'd rather have carbureted than injected ANY day.