Top 10 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab Questions & Answers

CAUTION If the radiator is filled to the top with coolant and the engine is run without the radiator cap in place, the coolant will expand and spill over as the engine warms up.

• Drain some coolant into a clean container until the coolant level is below the thermostat housing.
• Remove the upper radiator hose connection from the thermostat housing.
• Loosen the housing bolts and remove the housing.
• Remove the gasket and scrape it carefully from the surface of the housing and the mounting surface on the engine. If the gasket remains on either of the surfaces, there will probably bea coolant leak after reassembly. Some engines use a rubber O-ring to seal a thermostat housing.
• Compare the size of the thermostat to the old one. They are of different sizes, types, and temperature ratings.
• The temperature rating is stamped on the sensing bulb on the bottom of the thermostat. The temperature bulb faces the block.
• When replacing a thermostat, be sure that the thermostat fits into the groove in the block or outlet housing. If the thermostat is installed upside down, the engine will overheat.
• Install the gasket.
• Reinstall the thermostat housing. Refill the system and run the engine or pressure test to check for leaks.
• When the engine has reached operating temperature make sure the thermostat opens.
• You should be able to see coolant circulating within the radiator.
• Another way of checking thermostat operation is to feel the top of the radiator hose or use a thermometer or multimeter with a temperature probe to confirm that the coolant is warming up.
• If the engine is overheating, but the top hose is still cool to the touch, the thermostat is stuck closed and must be replaced.

When replacing the thermostat, also replace the gasket that seals the thermostat in place and is positioned between the water outlet casting and the engine block.
Generally, these gaskets are made of a composition fiber material and are die-cut to match the thermostat opening and mounting bolt configuration of the water outlet. Thermostat gaskets generally come with or without an adhesive backing. The adhesive backing of gaskets holds the thermostat securely centered in the mounting flange, leaving your both hands free to align and bolt the thermostat securely in place.

• Remove the thermostat housing.
• Remove the gasket and scrape it carefully from the surface of the housing and the mounting surface on the engine. If any gasket remains on either of the surfaces, there will probably be a coolant leak after reassembly.
• Some engines use a rubber O-ring to seal a thermostat housing.
• Install the gasket.

Hopefully this is helpfully

Remove it. Then drive the truck to see if it vibrates. If it don't forget it. If it does, replace the driveshaft. But get it off there before it breaks something.

Okay...here is a list since no motor size:

2.5L----- 56-64

3.0L----- 56-64

4.0L----- 59

5.0L----- 75-85

All in ft lbs.......this is for the flywheel.

4.0L = 0.052-0.056
3.0L = 0.052-0.056
2.5L = 0.042-0.046

First I would figure out why it needs to be bled, if it was leaking somewhere, or fluid low, new caliper, etc.

Brake bleeding is the procedure performed on hydraulic brake systems whereby the brake lines (the pipes and hoses containing the brake fluid) are purged of any air bubbles. This is necessary because, while the brake fluid is an incompressible liquid, air bubbles are compressible gas and their presence in the brake system greatly reduces the hydraulic pressure that can be developed within the system.

The process is performed by forcing clean, bubble-free brake fluid through the entire system from the master cylinder(s) to the calipers of disc brakes or the wheel cylinders of drum brakes). The brake bleeder is normally mounted at the highest point on each cylinder or caliper. Brake bleeding can be done easily by two persons working together and doesn't require much technical expertise besides a basic knowledge of brakes and car hydraulics. One wheel at a time, the brake bleeding valve for that wheel is opened while a drain hose is attached to that valve and immersed into a pool of brake fluid. The assistant then pumps the brake pedal. In this manner, fresh fluid is forced through the system into that wheel's caliper or wheel cylinder, and any old, dirty, water-saturated or bubble-entrained fluid is expelled from the system. When the fluid from the caliper or wheel cylinder runs clean, clear, and bubble-free, the brake bleeding valve is closed and the drain tube removed. The process is then repeated for the remaining wheels. During the entire process, the brake fluid reservoir must be kept full of fresh fluid lest new air bubbles be introduced into the brake system. (As found on Wikipedia)

It would be important to note that the person pumping the brake should press slowly and tell you when they are nearing the end of the pedal stroke to you can close the bleed valve before you **** air back into the system. REMEMBER to keep brake fluid in the reservoir at the master cylinder.

Hope this helps. It's pretty easy and best done with 2 people, they hav vacuum bleeders which can be done with 1 person but the results are not consistant or perfect.

Recirculation (EGR) valve codes. The Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensors on these vehicles have a high failure rate. Ford now uses a redesigned DPFE sensor. In effect, since the failure rate is so high, if you get this code, replace the sensor and retest. When the DPFE Sensor starts failing, it gives the PCM bad information. The DPFE Sensor is less sensitive, and the PCM thinks less recirculated gas is being burned than is actually so. Trying to compensate, the PCM opens up the actuator too much. This excessive amount of EGR combined with the air coming in via the throttle body leans out the fuel mixture, causing a lean misfire, which is the "stumble" or "hesitation" that is common as the DPFE Sensor fails. The DPFE sensor in the Focus is not very robust, requiring frequent (every 30k miles or sometimes less) replacement or a work around. Note that complete DPFE sensor failure is a very slow process, and the check engine light won't come on until the DPFE sensor is pretty much done for. If you're experencing stumble or hesitation while cruising, and think that it might be related to DPFE sensor failure. If the stumble goes away, then your DPFE sensor is more than likely failing. Of course, replacement of the bad DPFE sensor is the official recommended fix for this problem.

go to the link below and choose the 1998 ford ranger as the truck, they are the same, then follow the link to ford site and download the 1998 ranger owners manual, the fuse diagrams are in there
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/120189/article.html

The clutch is not adjustable,it is a fluid clutch.It has to be a leak,or the slave cylinder,and,or, the master cylinder are bad,It does not have to be leaking to be bad,but it is one of the two.Rate please,thank you.

Be sure to put the truck in neutral, while engine is running, while you disengage from 4 wheel drive (low) to 4 wheel drive (high) and then finally to 2 wheel drive. It is critical to shift transmission into neutral when switching out of 4WD Low, as indicated in your owner's manual. Hopefully, this will help to FixYa problem!

it is located at top of engine at the front hopefully this pic helps