Top 20 1966 Ford Mustang Questions & Answers

check the unit in the distributor first the voltage regulator controls the voltage from the alternator and is not in the ignition circuit check for bad grounds and broken wires

yes sir

That's because your talking about the starter relay on the fender right! It's N/G when you turn on the key your jumping one side to the other which is the cable from the battery to the cable going to the starter that is bad inside the connection should end when you turn the key to the off position but it's not so the engine keeps running and possibly the starter is still cranking if not your lucky because that's what usually happens and it kills the starter and chews up the flywheel now did this happen before you changed any parts or after if after the ignition switch you changed is not adjusted properly so when you turn the key to the off position the circuit isn't opening and killing the voltage you see I have no idea when you did what so this is also a possibility look at the starter motor there is a braided strap at the end the nose of the starter in the front it's a ground strap if it's frayed and broken all you will get is a click when you turn the key also you changed the ignition key switch this is connected to the ignition switch by a rod that goes down the column and if you didn't connect it well nothings happening and if you did connect it I'm certain that you didn't adjust the ignition switch not the key switch you have to leave the screws or nuts loose a little bit and move the switch around back N forth to get it right so it starts and shuts off when it's supposed to I'm trying real hard to help you so you really need to be specific about how and when you changed things before or after and write down the order of things you are doing and still doing otherwise anyone here who picks up on you can help remember none of us are at the vehicle with you so you ar e the eyes and ears that tells us what your doing or have done so post back a little more precisely if this has not helped you already good luck and make sure all connections are clean Never use a wire brush it ripps the metal to shreds and on lead cable terminals the result is loose cables 4 0// that's 0000 grade steel wool is what you use to clean terminals eyelets on cables and wd40-pb blaster liquid wrench and a carbon conductive grease to lube them NEVER USE THE SPRAY IT TURNS THE WHOLE AREA LIVE AND MORE PROBLEMS LIKE SHORTING TO GROUND AND FIRES can result and in case your wondering I'm a taxi mechanic with 50 years experience in nyc and your info is good stuff good luck again I have to go back to an alternator rebuild and transmission install on a crown victoria the chariot drivers here are amazing they drive through store windows at least once a month and if you ever come here walk the streets facing the cars so you can see it before your a hendrix lyric tire tracks all across your back I see you had your fun! And have fun fixing your girl mustang Sally yay stephen

make sure to put the gasket on the distributor?

There is a process for locating the problem that you are describing. The issue is called parasitic drain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXX8TfzRAKk

1966 Mustang Specifications

Not sure what you are asking? If just the three pulleys, go around each in a big circle and use alternator adjustment to take up slack.

Wrong gauge for the sensor? Bad gauge?

Good question. Try a site for Mustang Owners like a Club online. The spring tension can be adjustable by moving the tab that houses the spring on each arm. If you are concerned with the position, simply move the arm on the serrated shaft until the blades rest on the cowl. There should be little pressure. The sweep should fall in line with the "at rest" position. If not, a small adjustment can be made to maximize sweep.

Have you checked to see if wiring is reconnected to the blower motor, and if you have power there, if not, check the fuse.

I'm assuming you set the ring and pinion up properly. With Ford's there is a crushed ring you should use a new one, tight the pinion nut until there is a slight drag. If it's too tight the bearing will heat up, if it's to lose it will wobble.Ideally the nut should be tightened with no seal in it and out of the carrier, to provide a resistance while turning of 20-25 inch pounds using an inch tork wrench. When you do a final assembly use loctite on and nut. If you need more information there are youtube videos available. Good luck.

Remove rear seat. Remove arm rest. Remove side panel. Remove 3 (or 4) nuts that hold the side ornament in place. Hope this helps.

Try one of the Mustang owners clubs. Someone there most likely will have what you need. http://www.mustang.org/

Go to your local auto parts store and ask for a Haynes repair manual for your car. It will provide you with the information you are looking for as well as how to successfully remove and replace your starter. You could also use your computer and join "alldatadiy". It costs about the same as the Haynes manual and will provide specific details for this as well as other repairs. The advantage to alldata is that you can get the info right away whereas you may have to order the book and wait a few days for it.

Okay, you have to set the number 1 cylinder at TDC of its compression stroke, and then drop in the distributor so the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire tower. This should start the car, then you could set the timing to spec with a timing light. There are two TDC's of a cylinder- the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke. To find the compression stroke, take out the #1 cylinder spark plug. Put your finger over the hole. Now either turn the engine over by hand (with a socket on the crankshaft pulley-turn clockwise), OR have a helper bump the starter over in as short bursts as possible. As soon as you feel pressure on your finger- stop turning- the piston in #1 is rising on its compression stroke. Now check the timing pointer or scale by the crank pulley. Turn the engine slowly on over until the notch or mark on the crank pulley is right on the zero degrees mark on the scale. This is TDC of compression stroke-the piston is at top of travel in the cylinder. Put the distributor in so the rotor will be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire.

How to Set the Timing on 1965 Ford 289 eHow step by step guide and a vid on distributor placement. If you do not have a light, try to borrow one to confirm your position/timing are good...there's a video on the ignition timing as well.

what year do you need it for they change

can you confirm your vehicle

may have no gearbox oil ! may have a worn clutch , are there any other symptoms you could describe ?

Do all