1965 Ford Mustang - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Even if that was true, the car would run for 20 seconds without any fuel in the line, because the carb would have gas in the bowl. Why was the fuel pump replaced? How do you know theres no gas in the line? The check valve in the fuel pump should keep fuel from going backwards into the tank. The carb should hold gas, if not, find out why.

may be it is oil pump, or oil gauge, removed your valve cover, start the engine you can see oil coming out from rocker arm, if there is no oil try to replace oil filter, if not again oil pump is the cause. replace oil pump.

faulty oil pump

after warm up what is your oil pressurewould check where feed is for valves maybe o ring missing from head gasket if feed is from there

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Not exactly. The Mustang of that series had leaf springs and "overload" springs were usually a set with an extra leaf or two. Overload shocks were shock absorbers with an additional coil spring.I don't think you could special order overload springs since the car was not designed to haul any extra weight like a truck or station wagon.

When?

It sounds like you may have a dead cell in the battery. This will still read 12v but will not deliver full amps to the starter. You should be able to get it checked for free at any battery shop.

this sounds like the carburetor is dirty internaly and needs a rebuild to correct the problem.if it was the fuel pump it would not matter if you held the pedal wide open or not it would not pump gas.you mention plug wires but not mention spark plugs specifically.these are the items that are normally replaced when a tune-up is done.plugs,cap rotor,points,condensor,plug wires if needed,air filter,fuel filter,set point gap,set ignition timing,adjust carb mixture.

The jets in the carb are too big for a 302 with a stock cam. Take it to a carb shop and have them replace the jets with stock jets. (Or DIY and hope). Whne you converted from FI to carb did you replace fuel pump to get correct 7 1/2 psi pressure at carb inlet? FI pumps put out 50+ psi and a regulator maintians pressure at the injectors on the order of 35 psi.. Of course, that much pressure would force inlet needle valve out of it's seat and would probably flood carb totally, but, check the fuel pressure at the carb just to be sure. Good luck. 302's rule!!!!
PS - Check cam specs - FI engine has different cam - intake duration is longer if I remember correctly. Been a while since I got inside an engine...

180--------have radiator tested soon along with the waterpump

check and see if any of your lines are pinched or crimped. it could also be a small leak that could be sucking in air. if there is like a foam raising to the top of the reservoir then there is alot of air in the system

Possible. That, or maybe the starter has the wrong gear in it...there could be different ones, but I don't know for sure on this particular application.

If the smoke is white, you have a blown head gasket. If the smoke is black, you have some bad Piston rings.

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under the dash by the the steering wheel

Hello, I have a few ideas to give you. I am thinking the fuel line may have a hole in it somewhere and that you are losing the vacuum draw at low speed. You may also have condensation in the gas tank or gasahol may have separated and you are getting a glub of something other than gas that is rolling around the inside of the gas tank. When you go to stop, the gas moves to the front of the tank, leaving the heavier contaminates at the fuel pump pickup.

That being said, there may also be a problem with the fuel pump pickup itself inside the tank. As a note, for awhile the gas stations used a foam ball filter in their pumps. But when the netting detriorated, the loose foam balls were injected into everyones' gas tanks. (rice size pellets)

Another thing you can do is add a vacuum gauge to your instrument cluster. It is both nostalgia and functional to use a vacuum gauge. Also the proper carburetor setting is made using a vacuum gauge, turning the air mixture to the maximum attainable reading, then backing off so the vacuum level is about 1lb from peak setting favoring more air(more open).

I would be interested in what you found from inspection.

With out pulling the engine out you need to take the motor mouts loose rise the engine as high as you can drop the oil pan out the back you might have to take oil pump or oil pump pick up tube off

Either you have an open wire somewhere that needs to be taped off, or your leaving something on. ALSO your alternator could be overcharging your battery B/C your voltage regulator is out on your alternator. I bet thats what your problem is. To fix, you have to tear your alternator apart, and replace the regulator in it, or just replace the alternator itself. Hope this helps, James Booth Please Rate This :)

Where is this hydraulic fluid being used? Steering?

When replacing the distributor you have to make sure it is kept "in time".
If you did not keep it in time, then you will have to retime the distributor.

How to time an Engine

Technique used before and during the reinstallation of the distributor.

Note: Requires two people or a special momentary contact bump switch.

1. Find the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer. Clean it off if necessary so you can see it easily.
2. Remove the #1 spark plug and place your thumb over the spark plug hole.
3. Have your helper bump the engine over carefully using the ignition switch or you can do it using a specially made bump switch connected to the starter solenoid.
4. When you feel and hear pressure build up and escape from under your thumb stop bumping the engine over.
5. Look at your harmonic balancer. If the TDC mark is not lined up with the timing pointer, then you will need to rotate the engine in its normal running direction with a socket and ratchet or breaker bar placed on the harmonic balancer bolt. Turn the engine carefully, exactly lining up the TDC mark with the timing pointer. If you go past the TDC mark you will have to start over.
6. Once the TDC mark is lined up properly with the timing pointer you are ready to install the distributor. Make sure your oil pump driveshaft is in place then place the distributor in the hole. Do not force it. Carefully rotate the distributor shaft until the distributor falls into place. Then put the rotor on the distributor and make sure it is pointing at #1 plug wire terminal on the distributor cap. It may take several tries to get the distributor rotor pointing in the correct direction.
7. Once you have the rotor pointing at #1 plug wire terminal on the distributor cap, snug the distributor clamp down and you are ready to install the cap and run the plug wires. Then you can start the engine and set the timing to the specification desired using a timing light.