may i ask you is the vehicle cranking over or doing nothing but a click,if vehicle is clicking check battery connections if ok check to see if you are getting power to starter big red wire if so then have someone turn key to start and see if you get power to smaller wire right next to big red one if you are then starter is bad smack with hammer see if then will crank.now if it cranks but won't start thats whole different story,if that is what it is doing check for spark and fuel pressure if you don't have one of those it won't start if no spark check the ignition module,if now fuel pressure then shirt some carb choke cleaner in a vacuum port see if it starts good luck
when was the last time this was serviced.........as a replacement differential oil with additive MIGHT quieten this down.........however, this might be unlikely if the vehicle was not regularly serviced......if it only occurs whilst acceleratin this indicates wear on the main teeth...crown wheel/pinion......this COULD be an expensive repair....
Sounds like you have a brake problem or a bad wheel bearing. If it makes a noise should get it checked out. My ABS light came on and I had to replace my rear wheel bearing as it made a noise also . Your ABS light is lit by a sensor in the wheels.telling you something is wrong.
An IGNITION coil failure is the most probable cause for a 30 amp fuse (F2-116, CJB) to repeatedly operate... If my drawings are correct you have a coil to check on EACH plug.
"COP" (coil on plug)... ignition system... A simple resistance check to ground ought to reveal the failing COIL.
(using a multi-meter as illustrated below... "Ohm" setting).Central Junction Box:
Wiper F2 48 CJB ... 10 amp... has no relation to your
30 amp CJB ignition system fuse.
Check the physical connections at the bottom of your steering column... and make sure your battery connections are clean and tight...
Failing any of that you probably have a bad ignition switch as well
If it did not start on fluid sounds like you may have a fuel problem. Is the fuel filter ok and clear, are the injectors putting out fuel. As to the fire you can put a spark tester on the plug and see if the fire is strong or not or take the plug out and ground it to the engine and see if it is firing, just be careful not to get grounded to the plug as it will shock you.
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Assuming you could get the motor to unlock, it would require a complete overhaul in order to run properly again because either the crankshaft bearings or the camshaft bearings (or both) and possible the pistons themselves have welded themselves to the engine internals. Most likely a new crank, cam, pistons as well as having the block bored and resurfaced.....get the drift?
You can start the engine but I take it the turbo won't spool up that just means that you won't get the full power and torque available the gearbox will still work if it isn't broken so the vehicle will still move but will be a bit slower on the acceleration due to the loss of full engine boost . take of the intake side cover from the turbo and get someone to watch or you watch the vanes when the accelerator pedal is pushed and the exhaust produces greater rotation of the impeller if not the turbo could have failed due to oil starvation and the bearings have cooked also check the waste gate for jammed open if so the boost pressure will bleed away before the inlet manifold and cylinders . the gearbox problem will need a professional service due to the complexity of the transmition pumps and valving .
Have you checked the transmition fluid for age and level
The vehicle security module controls keyless entry . There are fuse's that power the vehicle security module but not a fuse just for the keyless entry ! If your having problems with the keyless entry your going to have to take it to the dealer or an ASE certified repair shop . There is no magical fuse or cure.