20 Most Recent 1999 Ford Explorer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

v6- v8?

hi there
this is pretty typicalof rear wipers check fuse first to make sure it is good if that doesnt work it is probably the motor which goes out and you can pick one up at your local auto parts store hope this will help you and have a great day

Maybe your lo beam lights are burnt out I have seen both sides do this before. Check your fuses and switches as well.

I guess you are saying that after you turned the ignition off, the headlights and all lights went off, but when you returned and turned ignition on all lights but the headlights came on. "a gremlin" stole my light switch? Possible, but most likely your headlight switch is bad, or the headlight relay, or if the dimmer switch makes no difference, It could be power supply or connection to the headlight dimmer relay is bad. Corrosion causes funny behavior. Clean bright metal connections make a world of difference. Follow headlight wiring back to a small box usually on the inside fender of the Engine bay. Check all connections including the ground to the frame (body metal).

You may have a vacuum leak causing unmetered air to enter the engine. Check all vacuum lines/hoses for disconnection issues and for being soft/collapsing. If the leak is large you may hear a hissing noise coming from the area. If the throttle plate is very dirty it can affect base idle and cause the IAC to "hunt" for an idle thus raising and lowering rpm. You can try cleaning this plate with carb spray.

My daughter had this with her new Chev. You needed to push a button on the shifter to get it into park. The instructions were in fine print on the shifter. Good luck. Paul

overhead console Car Forums and Automotive Chat old forum but good info to start with & you could always start a new thread.

stuck thermostat...low coolant.....oil/coolant mixed = bad gasket. First things is to check for leaks, then coolant level.

Check the wires under the driver and passenger seat. Look for something like in the following video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwP0BxDg7tM

Have a look this and see if it helps> http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-c2748_ds540534 Cheers Greg.

I rebuild these ECU's all the time. We have sold thousands of them also. If yu have a check engine light on at any point when this happens then you want to get the codes scanned at autozone/ advanced auto for free or a certified mechanic (recommended) If you need an ecu ecm pcm or anything like that please call my cell. Good luck! Regards, -Tim 5 6 1 891 ate2 93

Should be on or near the fuel injector supply rail.

You presumably mean the starter solenoid? If it is the usual sort of pre-engaged coaxial type, the solenoid is to be found in assembly with the starter motor.

More than likely a split rubber hose on your turbo charger this will give you this problem check the hose carefully, you can get a spare if the is the problem and is easy to fit. other than that check your fuel primmer bulb in the engine compartment is it solid if not pump it till it's solid if this works and you can drive as normal, then the problem is a fuel line pressure pump that actually sit's inside the fuel tank and is locate from the top of tank, this pump should pressurise the fuel line up to priming bulb so the bulb is solid at all times. Hope this helps Good Luck

with 300,000 miles it could be about anything... my 1st thought would be a fuel filter

Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Binding latches
• Door lock cylinder
• Misaligned door
• Lock actuator

• Fuse
• Relays
• Switch
• Wiring harness
• Loose or corroded connections

Symptom Chart Condition Possible Sources Action

• The door lock is inoperative

• Circuitry.
• Power door lock actuator (218A42).

• GO to Pinpoint Test A .

PINPOINT TEST A: THE DOOR LOCK IS INOPERATIVE CONDITIONS DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS A1 CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE SUSPECT DOOR LOCK Check for binding or stuck conditions by manually operating the inoperative door lock.

• Is the lock stuck or binding?

Yes REPAIR or REPLACE the binding components. TEST the system for normal operation.
No GO to A2 . A2 CHECK THE POWER DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FOR LOCK OPERATION — CIRCUIT 117 (PK/BK)
Inoperative Power Door Lock Actuator

Measure the voltage at the inoperative power door lock actuator connector Pin 1, Circuit 117 (PK/BK), and ground while operating the door lock switch to the LOCK position.

• Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?

Yes GO to A3 .
No REPAIR Circuit 117 (PK/BK). TEST the system for normal operation. A3 CHECK THE POWER DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FOR UNLOCK OPERATION — CIRCUIT 118 (PK/O)/163 (R/O)
Measure the voltage at the inoperative power door lock actuator connector Pin 2, Circuit 118 (PK/O) or 163 R/O, and ground while operating the door lock switch to the UNLOCK position.

• Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?

Yes INSTALL a new power door lock actuator. TEST the system for normal operation.
No REPAIR Circuit 118 (PK/O) and/or 163 (R/O). TEST the system for normal operation.

Generally the Air charge temp sensor is in the intake tube between the air box & the intake. However, there is a possibility that it is part of the Mass air flow sensor.