1998 Ford Expedition - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Look on the VECI label (Vehicle Emissions Control Information) under the hood, likely on the radiator support. The vacuum diagram should be shown there.

The last escort I worked on had the identical problem . The solution was the distributor module had burnt out. This is the flat, black, electronic module, next to cap. Has 2-4 screws and requires dielectrical grease on the underside for isolation. Has flat bar connector which has 4+ connector pins. Car will turn over, but will not start. Replace this module for about $25-30 at most parts stores.

The VSS is located on the side of the transmission casing. As for your solenoid question, you need to be specific about which solenoid and what you are trying to repair or replace.

Could be the ignition switch itself. Under the hood where all the wires go into the fusebox in the cab is a good pkace to start. You need to take the bolt/nut off and pull the box and wires apart. I have seen fuse blocks heavily corroded and cause problems as you are haveing. Also could be the ecm (aka)computer in your car is going bad. You can get a remanufactured one cheap. And it is simple and strait forward

Check fuel filter for clog. is the fuel pump activating? If so. check for clogged filter. Check fuel pressure for proper pressure. I am assuming you have spark??/

Should be three.

i myself had this problem it cud be your thermostat malfunctioning a clogged heater core or a leak in the cooling system or even worse a bad head gasket . does your overflow tank blow out coolant? check your oil look for water if no check your coolant over flow tank does it smell like exhaust? if oil is good and overflow tank smells fine you have eliminated bad head gasket few right.so then you check thermostat make sure its not sticking open or closed .check heater core if you have heat thats good . so best case sinario its the water pump atleast was the case with mine in summer ran water in it but water evaporates quickly as expected but as winter approached i added antifreeze right then and there the water pump started to squeel and leak antifreeze out the weep hole located on the top of water pump i replaced water pump and have not had a problem since hope this helps good luck

thats easy the dash panel around radio just pops off with flat head screw driver and 4 bolts hold radio in.however the gem is not behind the radio its behind the fuse block in the dash. in addition if your radio is not working it could be a bad fuse or bad wire .does the radio light up?if so then its not a bad fuse or wire .in witch case check your model xlt eddie baur etc some model have just basic radio other have radio with external amp in the dash behind radio these often go bad it is then up for you to decide to get original equipment to work or install aftermarket radio in some cases after market radio is cheaper and depending on the model you purchase perform better .yah unfortunetly car manufactures install cheap radios in all vehicles wage your options aftermarket radio cd player say sony brand usually around 60$ and shud only take 1 hour to intall hope this helps good luck

There is a problem in the electrics of the vehicle. First place to start is to check the alternator drive belt for condition and tension. Next place is the battery terminals and condition and tension . Third place is to have a load test done on the battery as it may have an internal short and drawing all the current from the alternator. In effect when you add power requirements ( park lights then brake lights then headlights) you are actually using more current than the alternator can supply to keep the engine system running.

It appears that all these are on a single fuse. Locate the fuse box under dash near the steering column and remove the cover. A fuse diagram will be on the back side of this cover and will tell you which fuse to replace. Owners manual will tell you the same.

plug in a OBD-2 scanner reader

If the compressor is locked and the belt is turning free on the pulley your good if the the clutch is bad to then you can't get by with just a bely just take your hand and see if the pulley turns free if it does your good to go with just the belt.

usually the seat belts are mounted to those seat frames and yes, the seat attaches at those four points

Look under the rear of your expedition directly in the center of your spare tire there will be a wing nut that is what holds the spare tire on you may need to spry some lube of some sort on befor you try and remove it as they spend years under the car in the elements and dirt hope this helps

1. Make sure you have a detailed description of the noise is concerned with, including whether the noise is occurring at idle or above idle speed (does it disappear above 1,200 rpm), and if the engine is cold, hot or both when the noise is occurring. These engines generate a lot of "normal" noises 2. Determine what environment is in when the noise is most noticeable to them (inside passenger compartment, next to building with/without the driver and/or passenger window open, or beside the wheel well). Validate by using your own perception. 3. Compare the noise generated with a new vehicle, if available, with an ENGINE build date of 3/30/2005 or later on Mustang and 4/18/2005 or later on F-150 to F-350, Expedition and Navigator vehicles. if the noise is the same, the noise is normal and would be a characteristic of the vehicle. Do not continue with this bulletin. 4. Diagnose noise when engine is at normal operating temperature. Verify oil temperature by using a diagnostic scan tool and monitoring the engine oil temperature. 5. Check the type of oil filter installed on the vehicle. A dirty or clogged filter may cause a pressure drop. Look for aftermarket brands not recognized in the market or a production filter that has gone beyond the standard Ford recommended change interval. 6. Check for signs of oil brand used and viscosity. http://www.careucar.com/

You've just got a bad ground. ALWAYS check the ground first.

Leaky heater core(or maybe just the hose are seeping onto the core).

Pull the dipstick and make sure the oil isn\'t creamy white. if so, she\'s blown a head gasket and probably way more.

you obviously have a leak. try running with the radiator cap on 1st click so it doesn't build pressure. If it quits leaking, you probably need a radiator. 1800 radiator seems to have the best prices on quality parts.

Sounds like you are talking about the hose that goes to the heater. It has a snap spring clamp on it. You will be able to handle it better if you buy a new hose and cut the old one off. A small curved needle nose plier or straight plier may help. Then put the old clamps onto the hose higher up and slide them in place once the hose is mounted. Do the hard to reach end first(using the hose length to grip onto) and clamp it, then attach the last end.