No 1996 vehicle uses E85That product wasn't even thought of oravailable until a few years agoThe is 85% Alcohol & will ruin your entire fuel systemThe car wasn't designed for that fuel,no idea why youwould even go there,just silly
There is none. The transmission shifting is completely controlled by the ECM (Engine Control Module, aka the "computer".) If you are having problems with the transmission shifting or not shifting, or perhaps shifting hard, have the OBD II system scanned for any fault codes. Also, it has happened that hard and/or slow shifting can be caused by the transmission fluid cooler (built in to the radiator) being clogged and the fluid getting too hot after driving a while.
Camshaft is timed with the crankshaft and the distributor is timed to both. The cam rotates at half the speed of the crankshaft.
#1 piston must be at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke to be timed correctly. The cam must be "timed" or installed correctly at this point, and "timed" to the crankshaft rotation. The distributor is timed to the #1 piston at this point. This is true for all engines.(there may be some odd engines that are timed differently?)
The open pipe that you took the hose off of is the thermostat housing, you will need to remove this to reveal the thermostat, make sure you use a new gasket with sealant when reinstalling thermostat housing to prevent leaks and dont over tighten the bolts,run both bolts down as far as you can before final tightning
The first issue is the clicking response. That always means the starter isn't getting the voltage it needs which usually means a dead battery. If the battery is good under load testing then it's either the voltage regulator or a bad ground connection. The ground wire may have corroded so check that first and the battery connections. The ground wire bolts to the block. I recommend the you jump start the car after you find the problem. Now go to an auto parts store that will test your ignition system: alternator, battery, etc. while running. O'Reilly does it in MI. The car is old so it may need spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, etc. Candidly, it may be time to take it to a good mechanic.
Does the battery have a full charge, battery connections all clean and tight?
With engine cranking, the vehicle systems get battery voltage. With engine running, it gets alternator voltage, there can be several volt difference.
With everything off use digital multimeter across battery posts, the generic spec for a full charge is 12.6 volts. Leave the leads on the battery posts, have a helper crank it, the voltage shouldn't drop below 9.6 volts, that is a generic spec.
The next test, w/o jumpers, have a helper crank it while you check spark at the plugs--check proper fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse. Any applicable trouble codes?
You remove the heater blower by removing the bottom cover of the Glove Compartment. Then you will see The heater blower housing. Then you will see like a black clip you need to lift. Then You simply turn clockwise and bingo its off. To install just do the same thing except in reverse mode.
Good Luck!!
you don't need a diagram . you system is so simple you only have 3 things in it and one never fails.
you have a resistor that if it fails it never works again , so that's out
the motor can be failing and then work again .
but fords most common is a blower switch ,it melts .
so remove the switch and then remove the plug(if you can it might be melted to the switch) and look inside there to see if it's deformed , the plug might be deformed as well as the wires burnt.
start there first.
You can't adjust the idle , There is a minimum idle adjustment set at the factory , you don't want to mess with that . The PCM / ECM ,engine computer controls the idle speed by the idle air control valve (motor) . You may have a dirty throttle plate mess with the base idle .Check out this video on ford base idle adjustment . Some one who didn't know cranked up the base idle causing problems Ford IAC valve test how to adjust minimum idle speed
the solution to your problem is simple. yes you say that it has a new water pump, but the reason that a vehicle bubbles out of the expansion tank is because the water pump is not circulating coolant, the coolant boils in the engine and bubbles out of the expansion tank. secondly the reason the fan never kicks in is because the temp sensor is not seeing the heated coolant because the water pump is not circulating the coolant through the cooling system. 3rd. the heater never gets hot because the water pump is not circulating coolant through the heater core in order for it to get hot and provide heat. and the temperature gauge never seems to go up because yup you guessed it, the water pump isnt circulating coolant in order for the engine temperature sensor to see hot coolant and thus send a signal to the engine temperature gauge as to the coolant temperature. i know you said it has a new water pump, but i have heard that this type of vehicle may come with a plastic fin pump. i would remove the pump and check the passages for foreign matter{ trash} in the passages as well as the condition of the new pump. also one last thing, the reason the vehicle died on the road in the first place was probably because it overheated. happy hunting and please post to see what you found. i am a mechanic by proffession.
the two hoses for the egr should run from the exhaust manifold to what is called the dpfe sensor. this sensor is usually located on the firewall or the engine
