Top 20 1995 Ford F350 Questions & Answers

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check for a bad/loose ground wire in the battery or where it connects to the engine or chassis

I believe there is a fuel pressure regulator on each bank maybe the one not betting fuel is defective

Is this a no crank, no start issue? Or is it a crank, but no start issue? If no crank no start, when turning the ignition key to the start position, and you get no cranking, then you have a couple possibilities... bad starter, bad solenoid at starter, or bad Battery connections. It could even be a bad positive battery cable. Bad battery terminal connections, are the most common result of a no crank no start issue. Check the terminals, clean them, clean them, and did I say clean them? check this... Turn the key to the on position just in front of the start position. Then turn the lights on, are your headlights on. If they are on, that means you' are getting power through the ignition system. So ignition switch is not problem. There is also a circuit breaker in the under the dash fuse box. It runs your power for the ignition system. It's a small half inch by 1 inch? Silver block. Try replacing that?

I would start by double checking all my work with the lock and tumblar installation and making sure they are aligned properly. - then i would focus on checking the grounds first. starting with the one on the right front fender that connects directly to the battery. I also would check the one underneath the drivers side dash near the parking brake pedal and clutch pedal (if equipped). - i would also check the power and ground feeds to you underhood fuse box as well. --Let me know what you find and ill see if i can be of more help

Check.volage.both.sides.of.fuse

Start system. Most likely bad connection to Block temp sensor that sends data to ECU there are two sensors, one for the dash temp gague, and this one. I had this problem on 20 yr old car. Found the correct sensor removed connector cleaned connector with contact spray and toothpick, scraped male spade connector on sensor to bright metal. Cleared codes. Instant start, just like new. Didn't have to change sensor as many claim needs to be done. Hope this helps. Sorry I don't know where yours is. Try a google image search for yr, Make model "Temp sensor" this one is probably near the back of the block. It has a "spring lock" to make sure it stays on. The dash temp is just a standard electrical connector.

its stuck in place hit it with a hammer to jar loose

As tight as u can tighten by hand wrench then back off 1/4 turn then limit.

Remove vaccum line from brake booster.start truck put finger over hose sucking in @3 sec. Its good.most times vaccum pump locks up .replace the pump

Anytime that you get a code that isn't listed, it is usually a fault in the PCM.

It could be the module, but you should not just start replacing things without a proper diagnosis. You need to scan the computer for error codes, if no codes exist the problem is likely mechanical and you will have to do further tests on the hydraulic s and transmission electronincs. This is beyond the scope of drive way repair and you may be better having it towed to a local shop.

Need more information. Does it crank over and not fire or does it not even turn the starter

Catalac converters plugged up from unburnt fuel .remove & replace .tune up replace plugs & gap correctly .

I had the same problem, have you checked all your fuses. My problem ended up being the heater circuit for the fuel bowl was shorted. I unplugged it. You might need it if you live in Alaska.

Manual or Automatic? Check Tracy fluid level if automatic, and check where the shifter connects to your tranny to make sure connection idles free and working, and not seized up. If you have a manual tranny, check your clutch and all associated fluids. wost case scenario, you need to either rebuild your tranny, or buy one at the junkyard for cheap.

have you taken off the valve covers to see if the connectors are broken the wires to the injectors and the glow plugs and they are molded into the valve cover gasket over time the little tab that holds them together breaks and they come apart the gaskets are about 110 dollars through dorman

it sounds like you should check the wire harness for the injectors and the glow plugs they are molded into your valve cover gaskets and over time the little tab that holds them together breaks and you get a loose connection you will have to pull the valve covers to check

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