20 Most Recent 2001 Ford Focus - Page 7 Questions & Answers

You blew a head gasket. Is it smoking white? Is it hard to start?

It would seem there is nothing else to do other than remove the door panel with the door closed. Removing the seat is likely to be necessary. Not always possible to remove the door card without damage. Welcome to my world...

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You need to get it through a Ford dealer if they still have the info for your vehicle VIN in the database.

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Turn the engine off, open the hood, and disconnect the negative battery cable (--) with your pliers.

Locate the power distribution box against the firewall on the driver's side of the engine compartment. Flip up the latch and remove the plastic cover.

Determine which headlight fuse you want to replace. The 2001 Ford Focus uses four headlight fuses--one for each headlight. Fuse number 16 is for the passenger side low beam; fuse number 17 is for the driver's side low beam. Fuse number 26 is for the passenger side high beam; fuse number 27 is for the driver's side high beam.

Grasp the fuse with your fingers and pull it straight out of its mount. Insert the new fuse in its place. Replace the plastic cover and reconnect the negative battery cable.

I assume it's the same as my 2003 Ford Focus. I made a video showing where the fuse is and what I found was causing the fuse to blow.

I made a video on how I fixed that problem on my 2003 Ford Focus. I show how I had to clean the button and where I found some wires going to the latch had cracked insulation.

both codes refer to O2 sensors. PO141 and PO136. 136 is sensor bank 1 sensor 2. 141 is bank 1 sensor 1. so this info will work on both sensors. This code means that the heated circuit in the oxygen sensor on bank 1 decreases time needed to enter closed loop. As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. It the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0141. See also: P0135 (Bank 1, Sensor 1). Symptoms You will likely notice poor fuel economy the illumination of the Check Engine Light. Causes A code P0141 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• open or short to ground in the wiring harness
• O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
• O2 heater element resistance is high
• Internal short or open in the heater element

Note: Typically a failed catalytic converter does not cause this code. You're more likely to see a P0420 code for a failed converter. Possible Solutions

• Replace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor)
• Repair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors

Take battery to Autozone,they will test it for free,only takes a few minutes.Alternator may be bad.

You don't want to rebuild the pump. Get one for around $45. Yeah you may have saved $20 by getting the seal kit. But if the fiberglass vanes inside are worn, you just wasted your money. It will do the same thing, whine or hard steering.

At least you looked Terry. Good for you. Yes you have to remove many things. But they are easy. Do it your self and save yourself $100 plus in labor costs. I do everything to cars. The first thing I do is look at the job at hand. Then just do it.

Did it overheat? Did you add coolant into the radiator?

Helm.Com --factory manuals

Often it's becauce a pully is sticking. You need to have the belt's path inspected to make sure everything is rotating as it should.

Possible fuel pump failure. Gasoline is used to cool and lubricate the in tank fuel pump. Running a vehicle out of fuel is not good for the pump. Try banging on the tank with your fist while someone cranks the vehicle over. If the vehicle starts or tries to start, suspect a fuel pump problem

Vacuum lines. And check for residue buildup preventing throttle body from closing .

this is a time consuming process need to remove the covers on the driver side of the engine to get to any pulley and in some cases also the engine mount if so u need to support the engine from the bottom with a engine jack and then first remove the mounting to get to the covers bolts also keep in mind that when loosening that pulley the timing belt will also come loose so before loosening an pulley u need to get tdc first and mark your cam and crank gear if theres no marks to be able to get the correct timing set again or you will hurt something in the engine

yes its possible to disable the alarm immobiliser ,remove the ECU unit .then solder in a 12v supply from the on side of ignition,find a suitable connection in the wiring harness feed and solder to a switching transistor on the side of unit with a heat sink to the base connection of a transistor that controls the feed to another three transistors ,starter motor earth for relay,fuel pump earth relay,and ignition ,no relay and away you go location of transistors iam not saying as i dont wont the car theives reading it ,but its as easy as falling off a log when you know the colour of the wires, pin numbers and a magnifying glass soldering iron .took me hours to follow the the connections in the fuse box separating the two halves to follow circuit,tracing wires back to ECU then following printed circuit but i have done it .SO DEALERS EAT YOUR HEART OUT ANOTHER FOOD WITHOUT WORKING FOR IT JOB LOST .going to try it out on a dammed renault when i get time.Also sell the details over the internet ???? no i dont think so iam just glad i have pissed off the local dealers that wanted 200€

You have air in the coolant system. An uncovered sensor (air pocket around the sensor) will read cold, telling the computer to idle the engine at a higher speed. Bleed the air out and idle should return to normal. Possible your sensor is bad or wiring from it to ECM is defective, i.e. broken or shorted wire. Try bleeding the air out first, then check the wiring and/or replace the sensor if the idle does not return to normal.