1998 Ford Mustang - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Bad ground wire or an alt on the way out

You lost overdrive you won't b getting it back eithier drive it as is or get the transmission rebuilt

try a jumper lead from battery to alternator body in case the fixing bolts are dirty caused by corrosion ,this depends on where you live of course ,failing which change the alternator as the builtm in regulator is faulty and its not a weekend mechanic repairable item ,their is nothing else that would cause the fault you describe.

loose wire somewhere, most likely a ground wire.

The alternator is the issue, the battery starts the vehicle, when running the alternator run some everything. If the battery is going dead when driving then it's the alternator dying, does the. Battery light come on?

the coolant light needs water to keep the light off. Check the coolant level in the radiator and not the reservoir. If the wire to the sender unit is broken or not making good contact then the low light will also come on.

Most likely a faulty coolant level sensor.

head gasket is blown most likely

increase idle rpm's to around 750-800 and there will not be a problem. another way is to put a smaller drive pulley on the alternator or a bigger drive pulley on the crankshaft.

that would be an internal problem what did the mechanic fix on your car

the dash control valve, vacuum line or heater control valve issue check each one.

yes ,remove the end off the rubber hose. then remove the bolt holding it on behind the pump.you will need a seal and the metal tube to replace it. try on ebay.

change the fuse and your headlight relay.

your speed sensor on transmission there is two front and back most commune back sensor

So what you saying is it's hard to start cold right? Something in computer system not allowing excess fuel to injectors when cold. Probably sensor Get auto electrician to sort it out otherwise you end up replacing things that there is nothing wrong with They got the right gear

I am guessing that the selector fork has not been tightened up on the selector rail and you are moving the rail back and forth but not moving any gears . Otherwise there would be crunching noises going on.. Take it back to the mechanic and tell him to fix it properly.

probably the brake pedal switch (mounted on the brake pedal lever) starting to fail. it releases the shift lever and controls the brake lights coming on. you will need to replace this. for now, turn the key in the ignition to the lock position (counter clockwise,) then to the off position (clock wise). In this position the brake shift interlock is disabled and you can move the shifter to neutral. these instructions are also in the owners manual in the driving section.

probably the brake pedal switch (mounted on the brake pedal lever) starting to fail. it releases the shift lever and controls the brake lights coming on. you will need to replace this. for now, turn the key in the ignition to the lock position (counter clockwise,) then to the off position (clock wise). In this position the brake shift interlock is disabled and you can move the shifter to neutral. these instructions are also in the owners manual in the driving section.

check for vacuum leaks under the hook and under the dash.

you need to have the key reprogrammed by a locksmith or the dealership. it will only start and stay running with the original or reprogrammed key.