20 Most Recent 1993 Ford F150 SuperCab Questions & Answers

Your post gives the year of the truck as a 1993 and 1985... The light on the dash may be your parking brake.

Transmission Description The E4OD transmission is a fully automatic, electronically controlled, four-speed unit with a torque converter clutch. The main operating components of the E4OD transmission include a torque converter clutch, six multiple-disc friction clutches, one band, one sprag one-way clutch and two roller one-way clutches that provide for the desired function of three planetary gear sets. Transmission gear selection in the (D) range and converter clutch operation is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650). Operating conditions are relayed to powertrain control module by various sensors throughout the vehicle. The powertrain control module compares these conditions with electronically stored parameters and logically determines how the transmission should operate. A torque converter (7902) couples the engine to the transmission gearset via the input shaft (7017) and the torque converter impeller hub. The impeller hub provides engine rpm to the positive displacement pump. The flow from the pump is proportional to engine rpm, and excess pump capacity is exhausted back to the pump inlet. The input shaft transfers power into the transmission gearset. The power input is controlled by the application of the torque converter clutch, which is scheduled through the powertrain control module. The application of the piston plate effectively replaces the hydraulic coupling between the converter cover and the turbine with a mechanical coupling between the converter cover and the turbine hub. This mechanical coupling helps improve fuel economy and wide-open throttle performance by eliminating converter slip. Transmission shift selection and torque converter clutch operation are controlled by the PCM. They are calibrated to provide the optimal transmission state. This state is commanded to the transmission solenoid body. In the (D) range, automatic operation of all four gears is possible. The transmission control switch, located on the vehicle's shift lever disables overdrive operation and enables automatic operation through the first three gears. Whenever the ignition switch is turned on, the vehicle will automatically provide overdrive operation regardless of the switch position the last time the vehicle was running. Manual gear selection is available in the 1 and 2 range. Second gear is commanded when the gearshift selector lever is in the 2 range and when downshifted into the 1 range at speeds above approximately 56 km/h (35 mph) (for diesel 48 km/h [30 mph]). First gear is commanded in the 1 range at start-ups and when downshifted into 1 range below approximately 56 km/h (35 mph) (for diesel 48 km/h [30 mph]). Any reference to intermediate brake drum or direct clutch cylinder are one and the same.
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I think this is your problem:

Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM): Description: The programmable speedometer/odometer module receives input from the rear brake anti-lock sensor, which is mounted on the rear axle differential housing. The PSOM processes this input signal information and relays it to the powertrain control module and the speed control module. This signal tells the powertrain control module the vehicle speed in miles per hour (mph). Used as an input in determining shift scheduling and electronic pressure control. Symptoms: Harsh engagements, firm shift feel, abnormal shift schedule, unexpected downshifts may occur at closed throttle, abnormal torque converter clutch operation or engages only at wide-open throttle (WOT). May flash transmission control indicator lamp. Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 452, P0500, P1500, P1501, P0503

front passenger side kick panel. Basically right where the right foot would hit the side of the truck.

To replace slave cylinder transmission will have to be remove, not bad idea to replace clutch assembly once your in there if it has not being done.

It sounds to me like you have an internal vacuum leak in your transmission.

Ask the alarm company!

Have you changed the battery in the FOB. Dealer has the battery for the FOB for a few dollars.

You have a vacuum leak most likely at the upper to lower intake manifold gasket, have replaced dozens of them.

EGR valve may be stuck or sticking open .

check the wires on the feed to the fuel pump ,,also check that it hasnt got the cut out thingy on top of the fuel tank like the ford explorer,unless this is only fitted on the europeon models .?

Sounds like you have a timing issue with the truck. Could be your ecu or the sensor(s) that feed data to your ECU.

OK, when you turn the key to on, it will start the pump for about 2 seconds-this is just to put pressure in the lines and in the fuel rail for easy starting. If key is not turned to start, pump will shut off after 2 seconds. But when cranking in start, and when engine is running, the pump is on full time. If your pump runs longer than 2 seconds with key only in on position, you have a fuel circuit problem. It very well could be a bad fuel pump relay staying on. Or it could be a computer problem signaling the relay to stay on longer. Try a new fuel pump relay first and see if that was the problem.

Renew all the HT cables, make sure the cold start fuel enrichment device is working.

Here's a video on your air idle valve. idle air control valve replacement on 1992 ford f150

We're just getting these 3 codes, it usually starts fine and idles normally, but occasionally runs a little rough and will die.

You can go to www.bbbind.com , free wiring diagrams an fuse an relay info . On the home page click on technical information , next page click on Technical Service Bulletins & Wiring Diagrams

All TSB's and diagrams for every make and model - FREE. next page go to the bottom an click on I agree > Next page click on wiring diagrams ,then enter your vehicle info . year make model etc.. Then system - electrical distribution , then subsystem fuse panel ! there you go hope this helps you out ! next

Have you established for sure that the fuel and spark are at the cylinder? Pull a spark plug after cranking the starter. If it is wet with gas, then the fuel is ok.. It it is dry, your not getting fuel. Now hook the spark plug wire back on the spark plug and lay the plug down so you can observe it when the starter is being cranked. If you have spark, the spark plug will fire. No fire means no spark. If the engine has spark and fuel in the cylinders, the only other things it needs is air, and for these three tings to happen at the right moment. Has the engine computer been scanned for trouble codes? If not this needs to be done so we can determine if there is a sensor at fault. Without the codes, The only thing I can suggest at this time is to replace the crankshaft position sensor. If you can get the codes, get back with me and we will solve this problem.

you need to get that seen to in case the vehicle blows a head gasket.. Fix the leak and overhaul/service the entire cooling system

Hi Tabitha: There are a couple of techniques that work. 1) Basic (crude but works) - with the caliper still over the rotor, use a couple of screw drivers and find a place to pry against the old pads. Gentle steady pressure and don't pry against the rotor. 2) Use a LARGE pair of pliers (I prefer water pump pliers) to squeeze the caliper assembly against the cylinder. This works really well as long as you exert force evenly on opposite edges of the cylinder. Make sure the outer side of the protective boot is clean before you fully retract it. Cheerfuls