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1994 Dodge Dakota Club Cab - Page 2 Questions & Answers
How the trans& transfercase bolt to frame
Are you wanting to remove the transmission and transfer case? If so, I advise that you have a good place to work and preferably a transmission jack. While fairly familiar with them, I haven't removed a transmission from a 4-wheel drive Dodge Dakota, but know they're considered to be one of the more difficult ones to do. Have you done this sort of thing before? That said, I can give you instructions. The transmission doesn't actually bolt to the frame. It bolts to the engine bell-housing and there'll be a rubber mount at the rear which probably fastens it to the cross-member with 2 bolts. There are several small things which have to be disconnected/removed, like wiring, the speedometer cable, both drive-shafts, etc. Let me know if you want to remove the transfer case and transmission or just the transfer case.
Truck will turn over but wont crank,no fire to coil,replaced coil still no fire
No fire to the coil or no fire from it? There's one wire from the ignition circuit to the coil that energizes it. If there's no power to the coil there, replacing the coil wouldn't gain anything, and the problem would require several steps to try to diagnose.
If there is power to the coil, but no spark from it to the distributor, then the first two things I'd consider are the ignition control module and the reluctor assembly in the distributor.
I would need to know more specifically what you checked and how.
1994 dodge dakota tail light + brake light wiring harness
Only with the head-lights on? What about with just parking lights? And I assume that means it doesn't do it unless the lights are on? My first guess would be either a bad ground at the left (drivers side) tail-light, or possibly a 1156-type, single-filament bulb being inadvertently placed in the socket that calls for a 1157 double-filament bulb. That may not be your problem, but what that does is makes a short from the tail-light power to the brake-light/turn-signal filament in that bulb.
One thing to do too is check the turn-signals to see if they work properly with and then without the lights on. Make sure it isn't the tail-light filament flashing. It may flash, but won't be as bright as the proper filament is.
I hope this begins to help, and I'll watch for a response.
What can I do to troubleshoot a gas gauge does not work on a 1977 Dodge
If your other dash gauges work, which eliminates the gauge fuse, what you need to do first is determine whether it's the "sending unit" which is in the gas tank. This may not be easy as you may have to lower the gas tank to get to the wires that attach to the sending unit. If you're lucky, the wires may have a connector visible close to the tank. There will be one or two wires. Disconnect them, and then have someone turn the ignition on while they watch the gas gauge. While they watch, ground the wires one at a time to a good, relatively clean metal part of the frame. You may need to use a length of wire connected to a good ground on one end, and touch the other end to each tank wire one at a time. If you dash gas gauge is good, when you ground one of the wires the gas gauge will go all the way to the "full" limit.
If that happens, the gas-tank sending unit is probably bad. If there are two wires going to it though, you need to make sure neither one is broken somewhere. If the gas gauge does NOT go all the way to "full", then you have either a bad wire or a bad gauge.
Overdrive does not go on, on my 94 Dakota - 4x2 / 5.2 engine. Pushbutton light does not lights up.
I don't remember if the push-button has "out" and "in" positions, like the old push-button on ball-point pens. If it does work that way normally, but now stays in the same position regardless of pushing it, then I'd suggest starting with replacing it. Whether the button has "in" and "out" or not, the way the switch works is that in one position it sends a signal to the transmission (maybe to a solenoid switch) which allows or prevents the over-drive engaging. Bear in mind that over-drive is like another higher gear for better mileage and less RPMs mainly in high-way driving.
It's possible that a connector came loose at the transmission, and you should check to see if there's a fuse on the fuse-block and/or a relay in the box under the hood for the over-drive function. If you have and know how to use a test-light, you could check for continuity through the switch. Basically, there will be a "hot" wire going to the switch, and one (probably) wire leaving the switch. That wire leaving the switch should be "hot" in one position and "dead" in the other. It might be a little difficult to get to the back of the switch in the dash, but if so you should be able to find the wires and a connector somewhere between the push-button and the transmission. You might would need someone else to push the button off and on while you check.
I hope this has helped a little.
Which fuse is the cd player in the fuse box
One circuit is constant power to keep the clock and station pre-set memory maintained. The other is for the radio in general. If the clock works, pull both radio fuses and put them back in one at a time to see which one is constant power. If one of them is blown, you can usually see the wire inside it is burned with a gap. I don't believe there is a separate fuse for the CD player apart from the one for the radio. If the radio works but the CD player doesn't, I'm guessing it's an internal problem.
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